May have found problem to cut out...TPS
07-20-2010, 07:23 PM
#16
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The car idled really high like 1,600 without the TPS connected, but with the old TPS it was sluggish, would not respond when I gave it gas, almost thought I'd brake down, car jerked back and forth, that all went away when I installed the new one yesterday, drove to work today, no more bucking, or prior symptoms, car ran smooth and accelerated steady,climbednicely without any pauses or delays. Cost me $120 for the new TPS but it's worth the fear of not having to worry about breaking down...
07-22-2010, 02:24 PM
#19
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Replaced my TPS too. It was hard to diagnose as it was an intermittent problem. Occasionally the car would idle high 1200-1500rpm and then drop to normal 900rpm and intermittently would also not decel/coast smoothly, exhaust would be popping, wide band O2 would indicate rich. TPS setup was checked as per Clark's but problem still persisted intermittently. Changed TPS and car runs great with no idle or decel problems.
07-22-2010, 04:52 PM
#20
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Replaced my TPS too. It was hard to diagnose as it was an intermittent problem. Occasionally the car would idle high 1200-1500rpm and then drop to normal 900rpm and intermittently would also not decel/coast smoothly, exhaust would be popping, wide band O2 would indicate rich. TPS setup was checked as per Clark's but problem still persisted intermittently. Changed TPS and car runs great with no idle or decel problems.
07-22-2010, 05:09 PM
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07-23-2010, 12:40 AM
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Have checked what the spark plugs look like right after you try running at high boost RPM's? It should be able tell you whether you have an ignition problem or a fuel delivery problem.
07-23-2010, 08:14 AM
#25
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The plugs looks normal. like a beige, the FPR and coil are over 4 years old and they were used when the guy sold it to me, changed plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor back in April along with fuel filter...
07-23-2010, 02:03 PM
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If the plugs look normal after a "plug chop" and car runs normal the rest of the time; fuel pressure ok? Then I would start checking vacuum hoses and sensors related to speed and boost. Aftermarket rev limiter?
07-23-2010, 03:47 PM
#27
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I still think your problem is electrical, though it wouldn't hurt to run some techron through this tank of fuel, to clean the system. BUT, I'm guessing that you do that on a fairly decent basis, so it probably won't help, other than to clean stuff.
07-23-2010, 04:05 PM
#28
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I tried the techron in that last thread, I'm thinking of maybe changing the FPR and the ignition coil as a last resort...
07-23-2010, 04:12 PM
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I really think, before changing anything, you should find out if you are getting a full spark to the cylinders. I haven't priced a coil in a while, but it may well not fix the issue. Until you know, you're going to throw a lot of money at it without isolating the real issue.
A 32 bar fpr is like 70 bucks?
The symptoms really sound electric too me.
A 32 bar fpr is like 70 bucks?
The symptoms really sound electric too me.
07-23-2010, 04:55 PM
#30
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I really think, before changing anything, you should find out if you are getting a full spark to the cylinders. I haven't priced a coil in a while, but it may well not fix the issue. Until you know, you're going to throw a lot of money at it without isolating the real issue.
A 32 bar fpr is like 70 bucks?
The symptoms really sound electric too me.
A 32 bar fpr is like 70 bucks?
The symptoms really sound electric too me.