URGENT: Frustrated, about ready to give up...
07-07-2010, 01:09 AM
#16
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I'd start by installing the factory AFM, chips, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator. If that doesn't run properly, then work on find the problem before adding variables like new MAFs and chips, etc. In your post above, you say the last time you ran the stock AFM, injectors (and chips?), the car ran out of gas at 4500. What do you mean by that? Did it go lean, or shut off, or stumble or what? Until you get it to run right with stock parts, you are just making it harder on yourself by trying to add new parts before sorting the car first. How did you conclude you fried the harness and DME? Did the harness melt? Which wires were involved in that frying?
For checking the TPS, I'd run the multimeter tests described on clarks-garage -- checking for the click only confirms its installed correctly, but does not tell you if it is producing good signals.
For checking the TPS, I'd run the multimeter tests described on clarks-garage -- checking for the click only confirms its installed correctly, but does not tell you if it is producing good signals.
07-07-2010, 02:31 PM
#18
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Most shops won't know the first thing to do, IMO.
The DME uses the air-flow signal at nearly all times, including idle (the one exception is during cranking). However it does have a 'minimum' value allowed, this way even if the reported MAF signal is way too low, the car will most likely still idle.
Adam, go back to your #1 setup - that way we start with a known-good combination. Once verified that it is working properly, install just your MAF (and the configuration file for stock injectors). Then let us know what happens.
Have to take this one-step at a time.
-Rogue
The DME uses the air-flow signal at nearly all times, including idle (the one exception is during cranking). However it does have a 'minimum' value allowed, this way even if the reported MAF signal is way too low, the car will most likely still idle.
Adam, go back to your #1 setup - that way we start with a known-good combination. Once verified that it is working properly, install just your MAF (and the configuration file for stock injectors). Then let us know what happens.
Have to take this one-step at a time.
-Rogue
Re calibrating the Innovate - check the manual. There's a procedure you can do to zero in the unit. It's not hard but you have do it with sensor in either free air or with the car off for 24 hours.
Re your issues - If Dave at LR is telling you that you have the right chips, right MAF and right injector, then I think you have some sort of wiring issue. Most likely with your MAF connection. Sounds to me like the MAF signal is not making it's way to the DME. Is the PowerPerfect wiring all cleaned out? That will intercept your MAF signals and could hose the wiring.
Maaaaybe an issue with your TPS.
I would start by triple checking all the wiring to the setup manual. Make sure the PowerPerfect stuff it all out. Then, I would test the TPS for correct responses. Go slow. Make diagrams. Compare to the manuals. It will work but you have to damn **** on the whole thing. I'll bet that somethings not connected right with the MAF.
Re your issues - If Dave at LR is telling you that you have the right chips, right MAF and right injector, then I think you have some sort of wiring issue. Most likely with your MAF connection. Sounds to me like the MAF signal is not making it's way to the DME. Is the PowerPerfect wiring all cleaned out? That will intercept your MAF signals and could hose the wiring.
Maaaaybe an issue with your TPS.
I would start by triple checking all the wiring to the setup manual. Make sure the PowerPerfect stuff it all out. Then, I would test the TPS for correct responses. Go slow. Make diagrams. Compare to the manuals. It will work but you have to damn **** on the whole thing. I'll bet that somethings not connected right with the MAF.
I'd start by installing the factory AFM, chips, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator. If that doesn't run properly, then work on find the problem before adding variables like new MAFs and chips, etc. In your post above, you say the last time you ran the stock AFM, injectors (and chips?), the car ran out of gas at 4500. What do you mean by that? Did it go lean, or shut off, or stumble or what? Until you get it to run right with stock parts, you are just making it harder on yourself by trying to add new parts before sorting the car first. How did you conclude you fried the harness and DME? Did the harness melt? Which wires were involved in that frying?
For checking the TPS, I'd run the multimeter tests described on clarks-garage -- checking for the click only confirms its installed correctly, but does not tell you if it is producing good signals.
For checking the TPS, I'd run the multimeter tests described on clarks-garage -- checking for the click only confirms its installed correctly, but does not tell you if it is producing good signals.
Lol is the diagnostic port the old AFM connector? If so, I'm getting power from the positie wire from that connector.
07-07-2010, 03:10 PM
#19
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CPR: I think we have a winner -
Adam: You need power from another source. The AFM connector only delivers 5volts worth of power. Was your test light a little dim when you tested it?
The diagnostic post is a little rubber thinggy against the firewall directly in front of the driver. Lift the cap and you will get five female socket connectors arranged in a circle.
I'll get a pic.
Adam: You need power from another source. The AFM connector only delivers 5volts worth of power. Was your test light a little dim when you tested it?
The diagnostic post is a little rubber thinggy against the firewall directly in front of the driver. Lift the cap and you will get five female socket connectors arranged in a circle.
I'll get a pic.
Last edited by Matt Sheppard; 07-07-2010 at 03:26 PM.
07-07-2010, 03:23 PM
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See that fat red wire, I believe you get 12 volts off that (well, 12.something)- test it first with a meter. The other smaller wires are socketed in to get the "blink-codes" from the DME.
07-07-2010, 03:29 PM
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My car does not have any wires coming from the diagnostic port. The port is there, but it just has the sockets, no wires connected to it? Or do you have to buy connectors to make it work?
07-07-2010, 03:53 PM
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Some people also tie into the 14 pin block connector behind the diagnostic port.
07-07-2010, 03:53 PM
#23
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Adam, yes, you should only have the socket - female connections. That picture is from someone who was installing a MAF on a 951 and they were using that port to supply 12 volts - I recommend you do the same. The other wires were a test light that someone had installed - all you need is the 12 Volts off that plug.
You could fold over the end (double up) the + wire from the MAF and just press-fit it in to test for a bit, but yes, eventually get a proper male connector - used is fine. It's easy to scavenge the pins from a parts car or from a 944 wreck local junkyard.
You will soon find that at least 1 parts car is like the ante to the 951 poker game.
You could fold over the end (double up) the + wire from the MAF and just press-fit it in to test for a bit, but yes, eventually get a proper male connector - used is fine. It's easy to scavenge the pins from a parts car or from a 944 wreck local junkyard.
You will soon find that at least 1 parts car is like the ante to the 951 poker game.
07-07-2010, 04:21 PM
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07-07-2010, 04:28 PM
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Adam, yes, you should only have the socket - female connections. That picture is from someone who was installing a MAF on a 951 and they were using that port to supply 12 volts - I recommend you do the same. The other wires were a test light that someone had installed - all you need is the 12 Volts off that plug.
You could fold over the end (double up) the + wire from the MAF and just press-fit it in to test for a bit, but yes, eventually get a proper male connector - used is fine. It's easy to scavenge the pins from a parts car or from a 944 wreck local junkyard.
You will soon find that at least 1 parts car is like the ante to the 951 poker game.
You could fold over the end (double up) the + wire from the MAF and just press-fit it in to test for a bit, but yes, eventually get a proper male connector - used is fine. It's easy to scavenge the pins from a parts car or from a 944 wreck local junkyard.
You will soon find that at least 1 parts car is like the ante to the 951 poker game.
07-07-2010, 04:52 PM
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Or right now. car is working right. Just needs tuning. 
I swear, I don't know what I would do without this website. Thank you everone for your help and inputs.
car is working right. Just needs tuning. I swear, I don't know what I would do without this website. Thank you everone for your help and inputs.
07-07-2010, 07:50 PM
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Will do. in my excitement, I failed to mention someone in my thank you. I would like to thank Dave and all others who helped us from Lindsey Racing. They have given us support ever since our first 951. For every post I make, there are five phonecalls to them. So, thanks again LR crew. 
in my excitement, I failed to mention someone in my thank you. I would like to thank Dave and all others who helped us from Lindsey Racing. They have given us support ever since our first 951. For every post I make, there are five phonecalls to them. So, thanks again LR crew.
07-07-2010, 08:23 PM
#30
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You're welcome Adam. Anytime as usual. And I'm sure we asked your dad at least 10 times do you have 12v to the meter and what's the voltage coming out. It would of been fun to of met you two had you made the trip up today.
It would of been fun to of met you two had you made the trip up today.
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Other 1-405-947-0137