Originally Posted by Van

I once had a cantankerous clutch bleeding experience... I'd replaced the line from the master to the slave, and after several bleeding tries, it still wasn't good. Turned out, because of the the way the line went up from the master, and then down to the slave, it was trapping air at the top. Even when I used the motive, it didn't get that air out. (The volume or pressure wasn't enough to force the air bubble all the way down to the slave.)

I had to disconnect that line from the master, hold it upright, get fluid in there, etc. In the end, I finally got it.

I like George's idea of "reverse bleeding" - that should get out the air bubble I'm talking about.

p.s. love that CDX wheel spacer!!

Originally Posted by Ronin-951

The bleeding thing is a PITA, but adding a saddle tap valve to the high point of the line and using a vaccum hand pump gets a perfect job in 5 minutes. I also had a broken clutch fork once, hard to believe you could break one, had similar symptoms, one arm was cracked, would come and go, ended up with a complete teardown before I found the bast*rd.

Originally Posted by Ronin-951

The bleeding thing is a PITA, but adding a saddle tap valve to the high point of the line and using a vaccum hand pump gets a perfect job in 5 minutes. I also had a broken clutch fork once, hard to believe you could break one, had similar symptoms, one arm was cracked, would come and go, ended up with a complete teardown before I found the bast*rd.