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Starter re-installation wiring question

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Old 06-27-2010 | 11:16 PM
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Default Starter re-installation wiring question

OK, so I didn't take a pic when I took it out and now that I'm putting it back in, this is something where I don't want to hose up the wiring when putting it back.

Per Clarks, there's only 2 wires, however I have 3 wires - two large black ones and a small red one that's harnessed with one of the others.

Before I take the car off Jacks, can someone verify based on this picture:


The small red wire goes to the arrow on the left, the wire it's bundled to goes to the large pin on the starter with no arrow, and the wire that is not bundled goes to the top pin with the arrow on the right.

Thanks,
Flyguy
Old 06-27-2010 | 11:30 PM
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Small wire on left is correct. However, both larger black wires go on the top stud where the right arrow is. Nothing goes on the lower stud except the wire going into the body of the starter.
Old 06-27-2010 | 11:38 PM
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Aribop is correct.

To elaborate a little on each wires function, the small gauge wire is the trigger from the ignition switch. If you trace it up the engine bay it goes to the 2-pin molex connector by the brake booster. The two bigger wires; one goes to the positive post of the battery and the other is the feed from the alternator.
Old 06-28-2010 | 11:06 AM
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And don’t tighten the small one too much – it breaks easily!!
Old 07-15-2010 | 03:03 PM
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hey, I'm having a problem as well. I connected my wires exactly like in the diagram, and I'm not getting anything. What else could be the problem?
Old 07-15-2010 | 03:26 PM
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What exactly is the problem? Starter completely dead, it clicks, it cranks but doesn't start..?
Old 07-15-2010 | 03:30 PM
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The problem originally was that I drove to work, went on my break, attempted to start the car ( which was starting up fine until then), and I heard a click under the car. But the starter didn't work. I pushed the car with the ignition on, dropped the clutch and started it that way. I took it directly home after that. Figured the starter was bad. I bought a new starter, installed it EXACTLY like the instructions indicate above, and now it doesn't even click.

I'm lost here.
Old 07-15-2010 | 03:39 PM
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Does the battery have enough charge to turn the starter over? Usually when it clicks and nothing happens it means the battery doesent have enough juice to turn the engine over. You may want to load test the battery, you can get this done at mostly any auto store.

New starters can be bad out of the box, bench test the starter by putting 12v on both the small and large studs..make sure its off the car when you do this! Either that or just bring it to Autozone and they can test it for you.

If starter and battery are good, i would look into your ignition switch. I had a problem with mine about two years ago. I would turn the key and everything works as it should, just no starter action. The switch wears out (especially if you have a heavy key ring) and it was causing an intermittent problem as you describe. Was able to get it working a few times by jiggling the key in the ignition. I was able to get the car home by pop starting it when the switch finally stopped working completely. You can test the switch, but its a pain due to where it is.. if everything else checks out ok (starter, battery and wiring correct) i would just replace it.
Old 07-15-2010 | 03:42 PM
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bad ground or short to ground maybe?
Old 07-15-2010 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
Does the battery have enough charge to turn the starter over? Usually when it clicks and nothing happens it means the battery doesent have enough juice to turn the engine over. You may want to load test the battery, you can get this done at mostly any auto store.

New starters can be bad out of the box, bench test the starter by putting 12v on both the small and large studs..make sure its off the car when you do this! Either that or just bring it to Autozone and they can test it for you.

If starter and battery are good, i would look into your ignition switch. I had a problem with mine about two years ago. I would turn the key and everything works as it should, just no starter action. The switch wears out (especially if you have a heavy key ring) and it was causing an intermittent problem as you describe. Was able to get it working a few times by jiggling the key in the ignition. I was able to get the car home by pop starting it when the switch finally stopped working completely. You can test the switch, but its a pain due to where it is.. if everything else checks out ok (starter, battery and wiring correct) i would just replace it.
I just bought a brand new battery. Had plenty of power. I checked to see if there was power going to the wires. There is power going to the black leads which are connected on the one bolt as described above. There is no power going to the small red wire. when I try to start it, it clicks and there is nothing after that.
Old 07-15-2010 | 04:48 PM
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Battery is fully charged, power is going to all wires. The black and red. I think the starter is bad. Damn, now I gotta go complain to the place I bought the starter from....

Thanks for the info guys, as always it's greatly appreciated.
Old 07-16-2010 | 01:15 PM
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Damn, I got another starter, installed it, same problem. I really don't understand what is the problem. Could it be a bad relay?
Old 07-16-2010 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
Does the battery have enough charge to turn the starter over? Usually when it clicks and nothing happens it means the battery doesent have enough juice to turn the engine over. You may want to load test the battery, you can get this done at mostly any auto store.

New starters can be bad out of the box, bench test the starter by putting 12v on both the small and large studs..make sure its off the car when you do this! Either that or just bring it to Autozone and they can test it for you.

If starter and battery are good, i would look into your ignition switch. I had a problem with mine about two years ago. I would turn the key and everything works as it should, just no starter action. The switch wears out (especially if you have a heavy key ring) and it was causing an intermittent problem as you describe. Was able to get it working a few times by jiggling the key in the ignition. I was able to get the car home by pop starting it when the switch finally stopped working completely. You can test the switch, but its a pain due to where it is.. if everything else checks out ok (starter, battery and wiring correct) i would just replace it.

when you had the ignition switch problem, was there power going to the starter? because I tested the starter again, and there's power going to it, but it just doesn't want to work. Could a bad ground cause that?
Old 07-16-2010 | 06:29 PM
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Blown head gasket with coolant in the cylinders that doesn't want to compress? Try turning over with a socket and wrench. if extremely difficult, pull spark plugs. DONT KEEP PUSHING> Probably not this, but since you seem to have checked the obvious. - shortcut: I would pull spark plug #4 first.. look inside.
Old 07-10-2020 | 10:47 PM
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Default Starter Solenoid?

So Im working on a 1977 Porsche 924 with a rebuilt starter. Im trying to hook it back up and start the car. But once the battery is plugged back in. You hear in the starter region, a big twine'ing noise and it won't start. What gives?


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