need to get the car running properly..
#1
need to get the car running properly..
almost a year ago now, my 951 left me stranded at a stoplight. It did not stall, but the idle suddently got really rough, and car was having trouble revving. Was not drivable, had to push it into the gas station and call the tow truck. I've since left it in the garage, always putting off fixing it. My other car, camaro, recently spun a rod bearing, so i had to decide if i wanted to fix the porsche or the camaro. Porsche had that engine problem, plus needed a clutch kit... pilot bearing or TOB or something was broke. I was thinking the engine problem was due to bad vacuum lines, however i just replaced them today with the lindsey set, and it did not solve my problem. Here's some info on the car. '86 951, 45,000 - new head gasket, oil cooler gasket, FPR, dampener, vacuum hoses, ignition coil, spark plug wires, cap and rotor (i think, will check them tomorrow), tps, possibly a few other small things here and there. I have a video in my old thread, i think the car is running super rich or something. Bypassing ISV via jumpers did not help the idle, nor did disconnecting the o2 sensor.
Things I plan to check: make sure all 4 injectors are working, DME solder joints, AFM, speed/refernece sensors.
I know the speed and reference sensors are in the clutch housing, is it possible for transmission issues to damage them? Anyone have other suggestions? I already have the clutch kit and hardware kit, so it's too late to turn back now. Need to get the engine running properly before starting the daunting clutch job. I think the car was running a little on the hot side before it broke, had it idling for a bit to see if my fans were working properly (i don't think they were, i engaged the AC to kick them on.)
Things I plan to check: make sure all 4 injectors are working, DME solder joints, AFM, speed/refernece sensors.
I know the speed and reference sensors are in the clutch housing, is it possible for transmission issues to damage them? Anyone have other suggestions? I already have the clutch kit and hardware kit, so it's too late to turn back now. Need to get the engine running properly before starting the daunting clutch job. I think the car was running a little on the hot side before it broke, had it idling for a bit to see if my fans were working properly (i don't think they were, i engaged the AC to kick them on.)
#2
almost a year ago now, my 951 left me stranded at a stoplight. It did not stall, but the idle suddently got really rough, and car was having trouble revving. Was not drivable, had to push it into the gas station and call the tow truck. I've since left it in the garage, always putting off fixing it. My other car, camaro, recently spun a rod bearing, so i had to decide if i wanted to fix the porsche or the camaro. Porsche had that engine problem, plus needed a clutch kit... pilot bearing or TOB or something was broke. I was thinking the engine problem was due to bad vacuum lines, however i just replaced them today with the lindsey set, and it did not solve my problem. Here's some info on the car. '86 951, 45,000 - new head gasket, oil cooler gasket, FPR, dampener, vacuum hoses, ignition coil, spark plug wires, cap and rotor (i think, will check them tomorrow), tps, possibly a few other small things here and there. I have a video in my old thread, i think the car is running super rich or something. Bypassing ISV via jumpers did not help the idle, nor did disconnecting the o2 sensor.
Things I plan to check: make sure all 4 injectors are working, DME solder joints, AFM, speed/refernece sensors.
I know the speed and reference sensors are in the clutch housing, is it possible for transmission issues to damage them? Anyone have other suggestions? I already have the clutch kit and hardware kit, so it's too late to turn back now. Need to get the engine running properly before starting the daunting clutch job. I think the car was running a little on the hot side before it broke, had it idling for a bit to see if my fans were working properly (i don't think they were, i engaged the AC to kick them on.)
Things I plan to check: make sure all 4 injectors are working, DME solder joints, AFM, speed/refernece sensors.
I know the speed and reference sensors are in the clutch housing, is it possible for transmission issues to damage them? Anyone have other suggestions? I already have the clutch kit and hardware kit, so it's too late to turn back now. Need to get the engine running properly before starting the daunting clutch job. I think the car was running a little on the hot side before it broke, had it idling for a bit to see if my fans were working properly (i don't think they were, i engaged the AC to kick them on.)
#4
It was the rubber boots between the intercooler and hard pipe lol. Not the intercooler itself. It wouldnt hurt to check the entire intake system for cracks either. You never know.
#5
Does it run better with the TPS disconnected?
Your rotor button is also a good thing to check. If the small bolt holding it on has gotten loose it can cause a no start, hard idle, bad off idle running.
also try to cause a vacuum leak and see if it changes... the IC pipe couplers are a good place to look...
Your rotor button is also a good thing to check. If the small bolt holding it on has gotten loose it can cause a no start, hard idle, bad off idle running.
also try to cause a vacuum leak and see if it changes... the IC pipe couplers are a good place to look...
#7
changed out the couplers and piping leading to/from the intercooler, no change.
one thing i tried though, i removed the hose that inserts on the left side of the pipe that runs from the IC to the Turbo. it runs down to under the intake... venturi hose maybe? anyhow, when i used a cork or my finger to plug the hole on the pipe, and left the line open (it's a vacuum line) the car seemed to run better. not perfect, but definitely smoother than it is now. maybe that tells us something?
upon start up, the car sounds like it's cammed or something. it smooths out a little bit, but definitely does not sound like normal.
one thing i tried though, i removed the hose that inserts on the left side of the pipe that runs from the IC to the Turbo. it runs down to under the intake... venturi hose maybe? anyhow, when i used a cork or my finger to plug the hole on the pipe, and left the line open (it's a vacuum line) the car seemed to run better. not perfect, but definitely smoother than it is now. maybe that tells us something?
upon start up, the car sounds like it's cammed or something. it smooths out a little bit, but definitely does not sound like normal.
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#8
changed out the couplers and piping leading to/from the intercooler, no change.
one thing i tried though, i removed the hose that inserts on the left side of the pipe that runs from the IC to the Turbo. it runs down to under the intake... venturi hose maybe? anyhow, when i used a cork or my finger to plug the hole on the pipe, and left the line open (it's a vacuum line) the car seemed to run better. not perfect, but definitely smoother than it is now. maybe that tells us something?
upon start up, the car sounds like it's cammed or something. it smooths out a little bit, but definitely does not sound like normal.
one thing i tried though, i removed the hose that inserts on the left side of the pipe that runs from the IC to the Turbo. it runs down to under the intake... venturi hose maybe? anyhow, when i used a cork or my finger to plug the hole on the pipe, and left the line open (it's a vacuum line) the car seemed to run better. not perfect, but definitely smoother than it is now. maybe that tells us something?
upon start up, the car sounds like it's cammed or something. it smooths out a little bit, but definitely does not sound like normal.
#9
yes, i just connected the dots in my head. i'm not sure how the ISV works, but i think i read in my other thread that if it's stuck open, then it would basically be venting vacuum to the atmosphere. so i'm assuming either the venturi lines are cracked, or the ISV is stuck, meaning when the air which goes through the hardpipe>ISV line, is eventually vented to the atmosphere instead of being in a closed circuit, as i assume it's supposed to be. in short, a big vacuum leak?
it makes more sense in my head. when i plug the hole, the air doesn't go down that pipe, meaning more air into the intake, and it starts to run right. so my problem is too much gas, but too little air.
edit- one thing i noticed is that the car will die if i plug the hardpipe>isv line. this normal? and is the "cycling valve" the same as the ISV?
it makes more sense in my head. when i plug the hole, the air doesn't go down that pipe, meaning more air into the intake, and it starts to run right. so my problem is too much gas, but too little air.
edit- one thing i noticed is that the car will die if i plug the hardpipe>isv line. this normal? and is the "cycling valve" the same as the ISV?
#10
yes, i just connected the dots in my head. i'm not sure how the ISV works, but i think i read in my other thread that if it's stuck open, then it would basically be venting vacuum to the atmosphere. so i'm assuming either the venturi lines are cracked, or the ISV is stuck, meaning when the air which goes through the hardpipe>ISV line, is eventually vented to the atmosphere instead of being in a closed circuit, as i assume it's supposed to be. in short, a big vacuum leak?
it makes more sense in my head. when i plug the hole, the air doesn't go down that pipe, meaning more air into the intake, and it starts to run right. so my problem is too much gas, but too little air.
edit- one thing i noticed is that the car will die if i plug the hardpipe>isv line. this normal? and is the "cycling valve" the same as the ISV?
it makes more sense in my head. when i plug the hole, the air doesn't go down that pipe, meaning more air into the intake, and it starts to run right. so my problem is too much gas, but too little air.
edit- one thing i noticed is that the car will die if i plug the hardpipe>isv line. this normal? and is the "cycling valve" the same as the ISV?
#11
Just removed the intake, took out the isv, looked clean, but sprayed it down with carb cleaner anyways. am i supposed to bend the metal tabs that keep the casing on and spray in inside as well? or just through the pipe ports?
also, to test for leaks in my tube, i was just stuffing one end and blowing through the other. they seem to be fine, however i blew through one tube a small metal thing fell out. some sort of flow reducer? a small cylindrical piece of metal with a small hole through the center. and the line is double clamped, so i assume it's supposed to be in there?
the very center pipe connecting the two metal metal tubes. see where it has a clamp in the middle?
also, to test for leaks in my tube, i was just stuffing one end and blowing through the other. they seem to be fine, however i blew through one tube a small metal thing fell out. some sort of flow reducer? a small cylindrical piece of metal with a small hole through the center. and the line is double clamped, so i assume it's supposed to be in there?
the very center pipe connecting the two metal metal tubes. see where it has a clamp in the middle?
#12
Just removed the intake, took out the isv, looked clean, but sprayed it down with carb cleaner anyways. am i supposed to bend the metal tabs that keep the casing on and spray in inside as well? or just through the pipe ports?
also, to test for leaks in my tube, i was just stuffing one end and blowing through the other. they seem to be fine, however i blew through one tube a small metal thing fell out. some sort of flow reducer? a small cylindrical piece of metal with a small hole through the center. and the line is double clamped, so i assume it's supposed to be in there?
the very center pipe connecting the two metal metal tubes. see where it has a clamp in the middle?
also, to test for leaks in my tube, i was just stuffing one end and blowing through the other. they seem to be fine, however i blew through one tube a small metal thing fell out. some sort of flow reducer? a small cylindrical piece of metal with a small hole through the center. and the line is double clamped, so i assume it's supposed to be in there?
the very center pipe connecting the two metal metal tubes. see where it has a clamp in the middle?
#13
okay, going to try deleting the ISV for now, and see if that'll fix my issues.
edit- tried to ghetto rig a ISV bypass... instead of plugging the pipes, i simply plugged the hoses. Used a cork for the hardpipe hose, cork for the ISV > Intake hose, and then a sparkplug for the Y piece on the brake booster>intake hose. I don't have venturi delete pipes. I'm not sure it worked as i intended. car would NOT start without giving some gas, and would die if i let go. tried loosneing the idle control screw by 2 and a half circles... no help there. also was a LOT of smoke as i held the gas down a bit. i think my make-shift isv delete is probably the culprit. will have to bench test the ISV tomorrow using a 12v and hope it's my problem. looks promising though.
edit- tried to ghetto rig a ISV bypass... instead of plugging the pipes, i simply plugged the hoses. Used a cork for the hardpipe hose, cork for the ISV > Intake hose, and then a sparkplug for the Y piece on the brake booster>intake hose. I don't have venturi delete pipes. I'm not sure it worked as i intended. car would NOT start without giving some gas, and would die if i let go. tried loosneing the idle control screw by 2 and a half circles... no help there. also was a LOT of smoke as i held the gas down a bit. i think my make-shift isv delete is probably the culprit. will have to bench test the ISV tomorrow using a 12v and hope it's my problem. looks promising though.
Last edited by onspeed; 06-17-2010 at 01:57 AM.
#14
okay, going to try deleting the ISV for now, and see if that'll fix my issues.
edit- tried to ghetto rig a ISV bypass... instead of plugging the pipes, i simply plugged the hoses. Used a cork for the hardpipe hose, cork for the ISV > Intake hose, and then a sparkplug for the Y piece on the brake booster>intake hose. I don't have venturi delete pipes. I'm not sure it worked as i intended. car would NOT start without giving some gas, and would die if i let go. tried loosneing the idle control screw by 2 and a half circles... no help there. also was a LOT of smoke as i held the gas down a bit. i think my make-shift isv delete is probably the culprit. will have to bench test the ISV tomorrow using a 12v and hope it's my problem. looks promising though.
edit- tried to ghetto rig a ISV bypass... instead of plugging the pipes, i simply plugged the hoses. Used a cork for the hardpipe hose, cork for the ISV > Intake hose, and then a sparkplug for the Y piece on the brake booster>intake hose. I don't have venturi delete pipes. I'm not sure it worked as i intended. car would NOT start without giving some gas, and would die if i let go. tried loosneing the idle control screw by 2 and a half circles... no help there. also was a LOT of smoke as i held the gas down a bit. i think my make-shift isv delete is probably the culprit. will have to bench test the ISV tomorrow using a 12v and hope it's my problem. looks promising though.
#15
onspeed,
DId you ever check your Vane air flow meter?( I read though the other post and didnt see anything about it.) It can fail over RICH and the car will idle very rough and not start. I had mine go out but it was going lean and watching my A/F gauge I could see it drop off then the car would die and not restart until I replaced it with a donor one I borrowed. I know that there is a way to check the resistance also if you pull the black cover off and use a analog volt meter connected to the pins and then sweep the plate slowly and see if it has dead spots....also look for burn marks on the contact points....
Carl
DId you ever check your Vane air flow meter?( I read though the other post and didnt see anything about it.) It can fail over RICH and the car will idle very rough and not start. I had mine go out but it was going lean and watching my A/F gauge I could see it drop off then the car would die and not restart until I replaced it with a donor one I borrowed. I know that there is a way to check the resistance also if you pull the black cover off and use a analog volt meter connected to the pins and then sweep the plate slowly and see if it has dead spots....also look for burn marks on the contact points....
Carl