IT'S HOME!
06-11-2010, 06:07 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
OK, little more info. Vacuum doesn't change on decel, ordinary I'd expect to see at least another 5-8 inches of vacuum under decel, but it stays the same.
On the high boost map (17-18psi) I'm blowing off the IC boost hose. Wastegate appears to be hooked up properly, no loose bolts and I don't hear an open wastegate dump as if it were loose.
Disconnected the MAP sensor, no change in vacuum. All engine compartment vacuum lines look good.
Seeing 17-18 psi steady on high boost, but only seeing wastegate pressure on low boost ~10psi. I'll hook up the laptop to the SMT6 and look at the low boost map, maybe the info didn't transfer over.
What are you guys seeing oil temperature wise? The car has a KISS supplementary oil cooler, I'm seeing 210-220 when in city traffic, which quickly drops to 180-190 on the freeway. When really getting on it, oil temp rises pretty quickly.
This is beginning to drive me crazy and make me think I should've just put an LS1 in here from the get go or spent the big bucks for a 996 GT3.
If anyone can help here troubleshooting I'd appreciate it!
On the high boost map (17-18psi) I'm blowing off the IC boost hose. Wastegate appears to be hooked up properly, no loose bolts and I don't hear an open wastegate dump as if it were loose.
Disconnected the MAP sensor, no change in vacuum. All engine compartment vacuum lines look good.
Seeing 17-18 psi steady on high boost, but only seeing wastegate pressure on low boost ~10psi. I'll hook up the laptop to the SMT6 and look at the low boost map, maybe the info didn't transfer over.
What are you guys seeing oil temperature wise? The car has a KISS supplementary oil cooler, I'm seeing 210-220 when in city traffic, which quickly drops to 180-190 on the freeway. When really getting on it, oil temp rises pretty quickly.
This is beginning to drive me crazy and make me think I should've just put an LS1 in here from the get go or spent the big bucks for a 996 GT3.
If anyone can help here troubleshooting I'd appreciate it!
06-11-2010, 08:13 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
I have had 30psi with the stock ic pipes and fasteners (by mistake 
). They should not jump off at 18psi . I think you may have giant leak there. Make sure the clamps are correctly seated
). They should not jump off at 18psi . I think you may have giant leak there. Make sure the clamps are correctly seated
06-13-2010, 07:50 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yep, took us all of 10 minutes to find the leak. Turns out the fuel evap vacuum canister and thermo coupler switch were leaking like a sieve. Managed to re-route the vacuum lines to disconnect both from the circuit.
Vacuum instantly jumped to 6 inches of Hg at idle to 13 inches of Hg! Boost also increased from 9-10psi to 13-14psi. Need to hook back up to the SMT6 again and re-do the boost/gain maps.
Vacuum instantly jumped to 6 inches of Hg at idle to 13 inches of Hg! Boost also increased from 9-10psi to 13-14psi. Need to hook back up to the SMT6 again and re-do the boost/gain maps.
06-14-2010, 10:57 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So let's recap here.
Got the car mid February and took it to shop #1, where I discovered that the shop that did the PPI before I purchased the car missed pretty much every common 951 problem.
Car got the motor pulled and the following replaced:
Oil pan gasket
Rod bearings
Motor mounts
Timing belt and tensioner
Cup clutch, KEP PP, lightweight stock flywheel
Rebuild all axles
Replace 1 wheel bearing
Install Vitesse stage 2 hard parts
In the middle of this the car went to the rollcage fabricator for a welded, custom rollbar and had my seats/harnesses installed.
Early May I yanked the car out of the 1st shop due to lack of progress. While I had the car at home for a few days I did an airbag delete, wired past the airbag ECU and installed my momo steering wheel and quick release hub, taking some time to put in the 928 horn contact pin in case I wanted a horn later.
Took the car to the second shop. There they did the following.
Finished wiring and installed the SMT6, boost solenoid and MAP sensor
Installed the lindsey 3" exhaust
Wired up my oil temp, wide band and boost gauges
Went over the install from the 1st shop, had to repair some wiring connections, hook up the turbo after run coolant pump, tighten a bunch of grounds.
At that point, the car was running fairly well, so they put the lindsey cat in the car and got it to pass smog, which was great as it'd failed smog 4 previous attempts.
I got the car back this past Thursday night, but noticed the vacuum problem which Greg and I identified and bypassed yesterday.
So 4 months and 2 shops later I finally have the car back at home and running properly.
I could write a book here but the Cliff's Notes here are *never* buy a car without seeing/driving it personally. I thought I knew this car as it was owned by a guy local to me a few years back and that was mistake #1.
Mistake #2 was taking it to Munk's Motors in Michigan for the PPI. Those guys don't know diddly about 951's as far as I can tell.
Mistake #3 was taking it to Chris Cervelli locally. He does good work, no doubt, but he has a very disturbing lack of motivation and work ethic. Weeks went by with no work being done to the car, meanwhile the deadline for completion loomed.
Got the car mid February and took it to shop #1, where I discovered that the shop that did the PPI before I purchased the car missed pretty much every common 951 problem.
Car got the motor pulled and the following replaced:
Oil pan gasket
Rod bearings
Motor mounts
Timing belt and tensioner
Cup clutch, KEP PP, lightweight stock flywheel
Rebuild all axles
Replace 1 wheel bearing
Install Vitesse stage 2 hard parts
In the middle of this the car went to the rollcage fabricator for a welded, custom rollbar and had my seats/harnesses installed.
Early May I yanked the car out of the 1st shop due to lack of progress. While I had the car at home for a few days I did an airbag delete, wired past the airbag ECU and installed my momo steering wheel and quick release hub, taking some time to put in the 928 horn contact pin in case I wanted a horn later.
Took the car to the second shop. There they did the following.
Finished wiring and installed the SMT6, boost solenoid and MAP sensor
Installed the lindsey 3" exhaust
Wired up my oil temp, wide band and boost gauges
Went over the install from the 1st shop, had to repair some wiring connections, hook up the turbo after run coolant pump, tighten a bunch of grounds.
At that point, the car was running fairly well, so they put the lindsey cat in the car and got it to pass smog, which was great as it'd failed smog 4 previous attempts.
I got the car back this past Thursday night, but noticed the vacuum problem which Greg and I identified and bypassed yesterday.
So 4 months and 2 shops later I finally have the car back at home and running properly.
I could write a book here but the Cliff's Notes here are *never* buy a car without seeing/driving it personally. I thought I knew this car as it was owned by a guy local to me a few years back and that was mistake #1.
Mistake #2 was taking it to Munk's Motors in Michigan for the PPI. Those guys don't know diddly about 951's as far as I can tell.
Mistake #3 was taking it to Chris Cervelli locally. He does good work, no doubt, but he has a very disturbing lack of motivation and work ethic. Weeks went by with no work being done to the car, meanwhile the deadline for completion loomed.
06-14-2010, 11:18 PM
#24
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Damn Doc, that's an awful road. I'm glad you are up and running now. How does the VR St2 feel?
What did you guys do, exactly to bypass the vac leak? How much boost are you running?
I may as well say, before someone else does, Where's the Dyno sheet?
I got really lucky on mine, as I bought from a really good guy and the big engine work had already been done.
Anyway, I'm glad it worked out! Go DRIVE!
What did you guys do, exactly to bypass the vac leak? How much boost are you running?
I may as well say, before someone else does, Where's the Dyno sheet?
I got really lucky on mine, as I bought from a really good guy and the big engine work had already been done.
Anyway, I'm glad it worked out! Go DRIVE!
06-15-2010, 12:50 AM
#25
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One of the hoses coming off the thermo valve went to a 'T', we used a straight through connector to tie the two remaining branches of the 'T' together and we stuck a screw in the end of the other line (pressure side). Not a permanent solution but it got the job done.
As for the VR St2, it felt 'Hand of God' strong from the passenger seat
As for the VR St2, it felt 'Hand of God' strong from the passenger seat
06-15-2010, 01:10 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yep, what Greg said. Capped it and took it out of the system.
The Vitesse stage 2 is a lot smoother than I remember my old K26-8 being. Boost response is good, I'm seeing full boost around 3000 rpm. It doesn't hammer you back, but it definitely pushes you firmly into the seat and keeps you there, no boost drop off like stock. I have a feeling once I turn up the street map to 15psi things will be very interesting!
Haven't had any time to dyno it yet. I still need to tweak the boost maps via the SMT6. I'm making 13-ish psi on street fuel and I plan to bump that up to 15psi. I'll need to turn down the race gas map, as it was making 18-19psi before the leak was found, which means it's making more like 24psi now, which is why I was blowing off boost hoses.
Once I set the maps, I'll dyno it in both the low boost and high boost to see what it does.
Tonight I tidied up things, put the wood board over the DME/KLR, installed my rollbar camera mount, set the shoulder harnesses for length and tied up the excess, etc.
Tomorrow night before the Celtics game I'll trial fit my 275 front tires to make sure they fit!
The Vitesse stage 2 is a lot smoother than I remember my old K26-8 being. Boost response is good, I'm seeing full boost around 3000 rpm. It doesn't hammer you back, but it definitely pushes you firmly into the seat and keeps you there, no boost drop off like stock. I have a feeling once I turn up the street map to 15psi things will be very interesting!
Haven't had any time to dyno it yet. I still need to tweak the boost maps via the SMT6. I'm making 13-ish psi on street fuel and I plan to bump that up to 15psi. I'll need to turn down the race gas map, as it was making 18-19psi before the leak was found, which means it's making more like 24psi now, which is why I was blowing off boost hoses.
Once I set the maps, I'll dyno it in both the low boost and high boost to see what it does.
Tonight I tidied up things, put the wood board over the DME/KLR, installed my rollbar camera mount, set the shoulder harnesses for length and tied up the excess, etc.
Tomorrow night before the Celtics game I'll trial fit my 275 front tires to make sure they fit!
06-15-2010, 01:40 AM
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have 285-30-18's on the rear street wheels currently on the car.
I have 275-40-17's Toyo RA1's mounted to 4 17x9 ET55 Cup 2 wheels that I plan to use on the track.
Multiple people have told me they'll fit on the front, but until I actually do it...
I have 275-40-17's Toyo RA1's mounted to 4 17x9 ET55 Cup 2 wheels that I plan to use on the track.
Multiple people have told me they'll fit on the front, but until I actually do it...