Ziff951

Cool, I'll check it out...I actually have the Lindsey one, but the gauge itself took a dump...If I can just replace the gauge for $30, that would save me a bit. Thanks for the link.

Any thoughts on the 180 out scenario? I'm thinking you guys might be playing a trick on me, telling me it's correct and 180 out at the same time......where's Aston Kutcher? Am I getting punked here? Hehe...;-)

gpr8er

If #1 is at TDC and the rotor is not pointing to #1 wire....

Tom M'Guinn

It is pointing to 5 o'clock. The copper strip at the 5 position is what transmits the spark to the wire contacts inside the cap.

DeWolf

Put the spark plug back in and tighten it by hand. Turn the motor over so you hear it coming up on compression. You should hear the air pushing past the spark plug. You now know this is going to be your TDC stroke. Remove the plug and check the piston as it just starts it's return down the bore. Leave it there or back it up slightly. Your rotor should be pointing to #1 lead on the cap. Put the cap back on if you have to and use a marker to mark where #1 is on the dizzy housing. The photo of the rotor is not at #1. I just checked my cap. Number 1 is bottom right looking at the motor from the front of the car.

Ziff951

Yes, exactly. When I looked at it, it was obviously not pointing at 5 o'clock...I'm not sure why some people think it's at 5 o'clock? I know it's not the best pic, but it's pointing to 11 o'clock.....

So, if we're in agreement that it's not where it's supposed to be, what's the SAFEST way to realign it? I don't want to just pop off the cam belt and move the cam assembly or crank and end up damaging the valves... Since I have good compression, I think I've miraculously avoided that scenario.

The way it looks, it's 180 out, correct? 5 o'clock - 11 o'clock....180...right?

Again, the safest way to put it back correctly...

Thanks again everybody...I feel like I might actually get to drive my car again...fingers crossed...

Stephen

mikeyoman

Set the engine to halfway position i.e. all pistons at the same level in the bore.
Pop off the belt & rotate the cam to TDC. Then bring piston #1 up to TDC & re-check everything. should be good to go.

DeWolf

Is there a set screw holding that rotor in position? Just a thought.....

Once you have it right, turn the motor over by hand at least several rotations just to make sure nothing is going to clash. Then try and fire it up.

Tom M'Guinn

Sorry about that -- was posting from an iPhone and got myself turned around with that picture -- agree the copper contact is not at 5. With the rotor pointing in that position (as pictured) does the cam gear mark appear in that view hole -- i.e., are the cam gear tdc marks lined up with the rotor in that position? If so, then the rotor or gear must be spinning on the cam. If not, then probably your flywheel and cam are not aligned to TDC properly.

Ziff951

Totally understand, Tom. What you're saying is exactly what's bugging me. The notch on the bottom of the flywheel is lined up, the OT and line on top are lined up with the needle, and the cam mark on the gear is lined up with the mark on the housing...it. All points it being at tdc. The screws for the rotor goes right into the camshaft, right? The screw is in tight and I even grabbed the rotor and tried twisting it, with no luck. I'm also getting spark at each plug and the inside of the cap doesn't seem to have any marks on it, like it's firing off everywhere...
So, before I change it 180 around, what do you think? I just remember being so careful about not spinning anything when the belts were off, that it seems strange that I'm exactly 180 out.. At this point, though, anything is possible.
Thanks for the help, I'll be working on it this afternoon, so hopefully we figure it out!

Tom M'Guinn

Don't change the belt timing if all the marks are lined up.

If the cam gear mark is lined up in the viewing window when the rotor is not pointed to the No. 1 cylinder, then your rotor is very likely spinning. There are TWO set screws -- one of them is likely missing. The rotor is actually made up of two parts. There is an intermediate shaft that slides onto the end of the cam and is held in place with a small hex bolt. Check to make sure that bolt is installed and tight. Then, the rotor itself is attached to that intermediate shaft via a small allen head set screw. Check to make sure that allen head set screw is also installed and tight. I suspect one or the other is missing.

Ziff951

Crap...both screws are tight and no chance of spinning...they thread right into the shafts...no way to spin unless they completely fall out.

do you think that while I had everything apart, I could've reset the cam to what I thought was correct and in fact had it 180 out? Meaning, the crank marks are lined up once for the cam mark when it's on and once for when it's 180 out, correct? So, in theory, I could have the marks all lined up 'perfectly' and still be 180 out, if I installed the belt with the cam 180 * around.... does that make sense?

I'll wait to see what you guys say before I redo the cam position...

Tom, I'm in CA, also, if you have a second to call, it would be great to talk to someone about this...no biggie though...thanks!

Stephen
323 687-9599

Ziff951

FOUND IT!!! After talking to Tom for a while, we decided it had to be in the cam gear guts...I pulled the gear off and goodtimes... the woodruff key got smashed and the collar spun on the shaft...

next problem is, how the hell do I get the crushed woodruff off of there? Check out the pics..

Ziff951

Here's the collar....

951Saga

WOW! You are quite fortunate.

Try to reshape it with a chisel and file before removing the came gear then get a new one.

DeWolf

Well done!! I have just got up as it's Sunday morning here and I had gone to bed thinking about it. Strange I know. I was going to say remove the cam gear and just check it, but alas you have.
The old girl will be going in no time.
And mate....that was incredibly lucky!! If that had happened while you were having a fang, oh dear...