Alright, how much of a PITA is the clutch master cylinder? I've got a tiny amount of fluid on the inside of the track car and if the car sits for 2 or 3 weeks, which it does, the clutch has to be pumped by had about 20 times to be fully "active". Damn, I'm in FL, and have just a few days to do this before Hallett or cancel!!

 

IMHO its not that hard. Youll need a 13MM socket, some extensions, and a universal joint. All in the 1/4" size, makes it easier. And a brake line wrench, IIRC its 11MM.

The hardest part of it all is bleeding, as usual.

 

Got all of that...I had just planned on other activities for my week off, like getting it to the dyno before but might have to nix that. Really wanted to get the dyno done with the new pistons and all the light weight gears and pulley stuff - wanted to break 370. $hit, master cylinder! Put in a new slave cylinder after the fire but we skipped the master.

 

You can do it in an hour or two plus bleeding -- just need to clear a path by setting the evap stuff off to the side. Skinny hands help too. It's a cruel joke that they sell these parts separately (master, slave, and hose in between) -- if you replace one part it invariably ruins the others unless you do them all at one. Most local parts houses can get the master easily, so you can still make the dyno.

 

i have a new one fs, not opened.

 

I'm going to write that down on my little notepad here. Replace hose, master, slave --------- no matter what.

Let me just put it on the wall with a thumb tac.

 

I'll call Jason today and get it all new and it should be pretty clear - I have the intake off changing to an 89, and way back - if it didn't belong on a track car it was gone.

 

I think the brake line wrench is 12mm, but I could be wrong. It's been awhile since I replaced mine.

This is one job where a 13mm swivel socket pays for itself. It's not impossibly tight, but those things make the most of the space available. Those little magnetic inserts they sell at Sears are perfect here - when you get the nuts off they'll stay in the socket instead of falling into the abyss.

 

I assume this is on the race car in which case it shouldn't be too tight at all. It's tight on a street car because the AC lines run right above it.

 

You might find this helpful.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._clutchcyl.htm


The PO replaced everything except the Clutch Slave cylinder! My and a buddy had to drag the car into the garage! So guess what I'am doing! Inspection port on the bell housing...yeah right if your a freaking Emu!! And what's with 10mm allen bolt on the starter!!

 

The only thing that was a PITA was getting under the dash for the damn clip off the pin on the clutch pedal. Being on my head and that Sparco seat in the track car, I should have pulled that.

All done, have a clutch again.

 

Excellent. Hope the bleeding (of the clutch, that is) wasn't too bad.

BTDT upside down in the race seat. Beats being bent over the door bars, though...

 

Not that hard BUT i would recommend removing the driver side seat. Your back will thank you for it.

 

Yes that clip is a bitch, its just slightly too stiff to snap on easily....

 

and I changed the bushing as well, so I had to work it over the "new" thickness too. If it goes out again, the seat will come out but hopefully that will be years away.