Head is off...Opinions on Cylinder Walls Please!
04-20-2010, 10:47 PM
#16
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Bummer, never seen that happen. Looks like it broke around the wodruff key area. You could probably run it if the keyway is still solid enough to hold the key, but I oersonally wouldn't risk it. A good machine shop might be able to weld and turn it, but good used cams are so cheap that it's probably not worth the effort. No worries about losing its positioning anyway -- the keyway taked care of that for you. When you put the cam gear on it will orient properly via the key, so you can reset it to TDC.
04-21-2010, 08:19 AM
#17
I would do a new cam, not much for a used one, see Lart. Also the one cylinder in the 4 oclock position shows a rub. Which means the side of the piston skirt is scored pretty bad. Mine looked like that and I was shocked to see how bad the piston was when it was removed.
04-21-2010, 08:20 AM
#18
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S&#t happens….used cams are pretty cheap – replace it.
A tip on cleaning the piston tops – get some heavy grease and put it around the edge of the pistons so that the carbon chunks can’t get between the piston and the cylinder wall – the chunks are very abrasive and can get trapped between the piston and cylinder. That will also help keep the piston rings lands from getting contaminated with junk.
When you are done cleaning get a shop vac and make a quickie adapter (use duct tape!) from the shop vac hose to a piece of either fuel line or vacuum hose and suck up all the grease (it will have crap stuck in it now – so don’t try and wipe it up!)
The shop vac to vacuum hose set up is very handy for cleaning up around the engine bay – also great for sucking coolant out of odd places!
A tip on cleaning the piston tops – get some heavy grease and put it around the edge of the pistons so that the carbon chunks can’t get between the piston and the cylinder wall – the chunks are very abrasive and can get trapped between the piston and cylinder. That will also help keep the piston rings lands from getting contaminated with junk.
When you are done cleaning get a shop vac and make a quickie adapter (use duct tape!) from the shop vac hose to a piece of either fuel line or vacuum hose and suck up all the grease (it will have crap stuck in it now – so don’t try and wipe it up!)
The shop vac to vacuum hose set up is very handy for cleaning up around the engine bay – also great for sucking coolant out of odd places!
04-21-2010, 02:56 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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Are there any other parts needed when removing/replacing the camshaft? I have the seals that are in my front end reseal kit. Does the camshaft slide right out after removing the lifters? Lart has offered me a camshaft from an 88 turbo S. I have an 87 non-s. Would these be interchangeable?
Thanks all,
Thanks all,
04-21-2010, 04:30 PM
#20
Are there any other parts needed when removing/replacing the camshaft? I have the seals that are in my front end reseal kit. Does the camshaft slide right out after removing the lifters? Lart has offered me a camshaft from an 88 turbo S. I have an 87 non-s. Would these be interchangeable?
Thanks all,
Thanks all,
