What would cause no spark
#1
What would cause no spark
I just put on a new turbo, maf, and chips and now I'm having trouble starting. The car will crank and I'm getting ~43psi on the fuel rail but no spark. The tach bounces slightly, maybe up to 200rpm. My rotor looked a little worn, but not bad enough for the car not to start. My battery was a little low, but I put some jumper cables on it and it did the same thing. I have it charging now. What sensors could be bad if the car is getting fuel but not getting spark?
#3
If you are getting fuel (Injectors firing) but no spark, it can be the KLR or the final ignition driver in the DME.
If you are not getting spark, disconnect the fuse on the fuel pump so you do not flood the engine. Use a LED or Noid light on the injectors connector to verify they are firing. Also, you can use the same LED across the wires on the coil to see if the coil is getting a signal. This will help you determine which component (DME/KLR or coil,..) is at fault.
If you are not getting spark, disconnect the fuse on the fuel pump so you do not flood the engine. Use a LED or Noid light on the injectors connector to verify they are firing. Also, you can use the same LED across the wires on the coil to see if the coil is getting a signal. This will help you determine which component (DME/KLR or coil,..) is at fault.
#4
If you are getting fuel (Injectors firing) but no spark, it can be the KLR or the final ignition driver in the DME.
If you are not getting spark, disconnect the fuse on the fuel pump so you do not flood the engine. Use a LED or Noid light on the injectors connector to verify they are firing. Also, you can use the same LED across the wires on the coil to see if the coil is getting a signal. This will help you determine which component (DME/KLR or coil,..) is at fault.
If you are not getting spark, disconnect the fuse on the fuel pump so you do not flood the engine. Use a LED or Noid light on the injectors connector to verify they are firing. Also, you can use the same LED across the wires on the coil to see if the coil is getting a signal. This will help you determine which component (DME/KLR or coil,..) is at fault.
#5
I checked the fuel injector wires and spark plug wires with a light with the battery charged and I got a signal on both sets. This leads me to believe injectors or plugs. I have spare injectors and was going to try them anyway. I pulled the dme relay and cranked the engine to relieve the pressure from the rail and the rail held 43 psi. Faulty injectors sound like a safe bet?
#6
Has the car been sitting ?
I have, this year, had to spike my injectors with 12v straight from the battery to bring them back to life on a car that had been sitting. They did not click the first 3 or 4 times I hit them, but after a few times they were clicking like they should.
Ed
I have, this year, had to spike my injectors with 12v straight from the battery to bring them back to life on a car that had been sitting. They did not click the first 3 or 4 times I hit them, but after a few times they were clicking like they should.
Ed
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#11
Reference sensors. If you replaced the turbo you had the intake manifold off. Make sure the references sensors are connected and that the O2 sensor plug is connected, although the car will start witout the O2 sensor it has difficulty idling. But if it is no spark I would trace out my reference sensors.