Rip It

My gasket of 15k miles started leaking oil onto the headers-again!!! They all leaked near the rear bolt above the header. It's not the rear cam cover. I checked the block and tower surfaces prior and all was flat. My first replacement was installed according to the manual, it leaked within 100 miles. My second and present gasket I used sealants recommended by my friend whose shop builds nascar engines. This time I plan to take the tower to his machine shop and have it surfaced. I find it odd that the original?, I purchased the car with 120k miles on it so I am not sure of the gaskets age, my first replacement, and second replacement, all leaked at the same spot. Odd or is this the key to the problem?????
I read many have had this problem:
Where did yours leak?
Are OEM gaskets the only ones made properly or is one manufacture better than others?
This gasket should last for 100,000 miles easily. It's a time consuming job to repair, 2-3 days for me and this is BS.

RobE952

I've had one leak badly in the same spot near the rear of the cam tower. It was because the gasket slipped a bit during the install and the cam tower bolt actually cut into it.

Have you seen the rubber coated steel gasket from LR? They are more expensive of course, but reusable and they wont move around during the install.

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Pors...05-199-03.html

Van

I've used Permatex aviation sealer on other valve cover gaskets. Never had a problem with my 944, though.

theedge

If the cylinder head oil pressure release valve is jammed, youll get leaks.

Rip It

How do u verify the operation of the head oil pressure relief valve ? My oil pressure gage seems normal, it does bounce occassionally at idle but I think it to be the norm.

C ANDERSON

Try the lindsay steel it has been working great . I got the first one as a test so has been a while and been off and back on 2 or 3 times.

My daily driver I used INDIAN HEAD COPPER seal on the gasket very thin film to keep in place put on evenly.
will be a pain take off and clean up !! but it works.

Clifton

Rip It

There's got to be a reason this happens, manual says no sealant, I tried with and without sealants neither worked for the long term. Apparently the typical leakage is near the back bolt above the header. At this point I feel it's either warpage on the tower or the block and why it leaks at the back bolt area is beyond me. The bolt torque seems a bit low to me but i didn't design the engine and I am sure they know more than me. I am surprised someone on this site hasn't resolved or solved this issue! My car is not a garage "Queen" I drive it every day because I enjoy driving it. At the least this time I am taking the tower to the machine shop and having it surfaced to be absolutely sure its flat.
Help needed if u have a resolution.

George D

I had three stock ones leak in the new 3.0 motor. We switched to the LR steel gasket and took a tad off the cover to make sure it was completely flay. Everything has been been good so far. We did check the relief valve, and it was working fine. I had two header fires from the leaking, and it isn't fun.

George

ritzblitz

Try a non-silicon based sealant. Such as Toyota Seal 102 (FIPG)

Rip It

I just sent an email to Mike Lindsey requesting inputs about this problem. I will post his reply FYI.

Rip It

I was amazed how fast Mike Lindsey responded.
Paul,The primary reason we designed the steel shim gasket was for our solid lifter set-up. We needed something that would give us a consistent thickness every time. The paper gasket was not. We have had several customers using our gasket when they are having sealing trouble, but I will be completely honest and tell you that we have had a couple that still had trouble. A light application of a sealer by Loctite #5900 usually does the trick. It always seems to be a scratch or gouge in the metal that gives the oil a channel to run through.Let me know if you interested, we carry the sealer as well.RegardMike Lindsey

Rip It

Here's what I have discovered . I put the car on stands today and looked at the affected area trying to determine exactly where the leak was. Mobil one only leaves a shiney glean residue so it's hard to see. So I cleaned the area and started the engine. Using an inspection mirror I could see oil appearing around the back bolt over the header. It was coming out around the bolt threads up thru the hole in the tower. I tightened the bolt, cleaned, and restarted now the oil was leaking at the gasket just forward of the rear bolt and the next forward bolt but not around the rear bolt. My next step is to remove and take the tower to a shop and have it surfaced. Will keep all posted, hopefully the shop will discover an irregularity.

George D

That's what I had to do. I also used the LR steel gasket. No issues so far.

G

Rip It

I just got the tower off and cleaned. I did find a tear in the gasket shaped like a lightning bolt between the 2 lower back bolts. It did not come close to any edges, so there was no path for oil to have leaked thru. I really think I did this while fighting to remove the lifters one at a time so I could id and bag them. One thing of interest is the gasket is brittle over the header but pliable on the topside. This engine has never run hot. My engine friend says a gasket must remain pliable inorder to do its job. The tower surface as best I can tell is in perfect condition, no scratches and flat. Unless I am unknowingly missing a heat shield the car is as designed. I am still at a loss for a solution

951Tom

Check out: http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/2002/8-2002.htm

I'm getting ready to tackle this same leak. I think you only get about 40K miles per gasket.