My nearly 10-year quest to see my fuel gauge read full came to an end today when I finished installing an Ice Shark cable kit from Robby. I went to the gas station to top off the tank and when I turned the key, there it was, the fuel needle dead on the top tick mark.

Over nearly 10 years of ownership, I have bought senders, cleaned grounds, tested the circuit with reheostats, disassembled the gauge cluster, reseated just about eveyr connect in the car, etc. but could never get the fuel gauge to read full. Anyone who want to see what a 951 fuel gauge looks like when it actually works, send me an IM and i will forward the photo.

I bought the cable kit to try to solve some lean running issues i am having with a recently installed Vitesse MAF but i don't know yet whether my new problems are solved or just the old problems but I am sure enjoying seeing a fuel gauge that works along with a temperature gauge that finally goes beyond the first tick and a voltage gauge that reads over 14 with the car running.

Thanks to Robby for continuing to produce the Ice Shark kit.

 

Curious what the Ice shark kit is.


FOUND IT
"Its a set of pos/neg battery cables and supplemental pos/neg cables to replace your probably cracked and possibly burnt 20+ yr old ones.

They were created/sold by rennlister Iceshark aka Dan Wray, who passed away. Robby has taken over Dan's remaining inventory and is completing and selling them.

Dan also created a headlight wiring kit that helps prevent fires starting due to overloaded relays/wires when people would upgrade the bulbs in their lights to higher wattage ones."

 

A worthwhile project. As I pulled the some of the old cables out, the insulation cracked in my hands like egg shells. Not sure if the headlight kit is still made but Rennbay seems to have a similar product.

 

I have the rennbay headlight kit, good stuff.

 

any links for more info on the Iceshark wiring kit? Still available?

 

Robby took over the iceshark cable business.
https://rennlist.com/forums/6979083-post158.html

 

I installed an original IC kit and it solved lots of stuff, unfortunately not the tank level.

 

Yes the kit from Robby is great, I installed one when the engine was out.

The gauge tank still doesn't read full though, will have to check grounds in the gauge cluster.

 

I have the same problem, it only reads full for a second when I drive. Must be something wrong

 

Robby's cables are fantastic but my 968 still does not read full. On the other hand all of my other gauges are now steady, battery drain is not happening and starting the car is not a problem any longer.

 

I think the needle must sag on the gas gauge. If you look where it rests when the cluster is off, it looks deceptively lower than the others on the cars i have looked at. I 'reindexed' it on my friends car while the cluster was apart and his reads full now.

Also have an original set (lights and battery) from Dan on my car, solved all of the annoying little things like bouncing gauges and horribly dim headlights.

 

My oil pressure gauge is still bouncing after the cable installation but all the others read like brand new. I tested the sagging gauge theory by putting a rheostat in place of the fuel level sender. This showed me that the gauge could actually indiicate full or beyond with the right resistance dialed in so I replaced the sender and saw no improvement.

As a part of this project I did remove the cluster and cleaned the contacts including the footballs. It was probably a combination of all these things that fixed my gauge but the original purpose of this work was to fix a lean running MAF, which is still running lean. Logs today show 12.7 A/F at 14LBS boost on FQS 0 and 12.0 on FQS 1. Both settings still idle at 14.5 A/F.

 

After reindexing the needle, does it still read a level consistent with the quantity of fuel in the tank?
I don't like the idea of running out of fuel as the gauge hasn't lit the warning light, or even reached the bottom of the scale.