Wheel Alignment question...
03-07-2010, 10:29 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Wheel Alignment question...
I bought the car with cut springs and drove it stiff for over 3 years. I recently just bought stock springs, had them put on and the car's camber is off on both sides and pulling to the left. Can these cars be aligned with the camber or are they just toe?
03-07-2010, 10:54 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks, that's what I thought, I took it to an alignment guy at a privately owned tire place and he said you could only adjust the toe, I thought to my self he was full of it and that he probably didn't know how to do it...
03-08-2010, 06:52 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Don't just get the fronts done. You should have all 4 wheels aligned at the same time with the rears being the major PITA. The alignment interacts some what from what I have been told.
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03-09-2010, 07:26 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
You need an Eccentric Adjuster to set the toe on the rear of the 944. You can but on line and take it to him of he doesn't already have one. If he doesn't know what that is go elsewhere!
03-09-2010, 11:59 PM
#9
Rennlist Junkie Forever
In fact, if you have a track alignment with a lot of negative camber, the eccentric tool will only take out toe, but is out of range to add toe. Thus if you adjust your toe out too far you're SOL.
After you've aligned the rear of these cars over and over, you just set your camber, then set the toe wtih the wood block and hammer.
I can align the back of the car in about 20 min after the initial setup and roll out.
TonyG
03-10-2010, 04:59 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
No you don't. A wood block and a 5lbs sledge hammer work fine.
In fact, if you have a track alignment with a lot of negative camber, the eccentric tool will only take out toe, but is out of range to add toe. Thus if you adjust your toe out too far you're SOL.
"After you've aligned the rear of these cars over and over, you just set your camber, then set the toe wtih the wood block and hammer.
I can align the back of the car in about 20 min after the initial setup and roll out.
TonyG"
Well that's pretty impressive and I don't doubt "you can do it!" But if I am paying to have an alignment done the tech had better not come at my car with a block of wood and a sledge hammer!
In fact, if you have a track alignment with a lot of negative camber, the eccentric tool will only take out toe, but is out of range to add toe. Thus if you adjust your toe out too far you're SOL.
"After you've aligned the rear of these cars over and over, you just set your camber, then set the toe wtih the wood block and hammer.
I can align the back of the car in about 20 min after the initial setup and roll out.
TonyG"
Well that's pretty impressive and I don't doubt "you can do it!" But if I am paying to have an alignment done the tech had better not come at my car with a block of wood and a sledge hammer!
03-10-2010, 06:42 PM
#11
Rennlist Junkie Forever
That's about the only way to do it if you havew a track alignment (unless you modify the adjustment holes or perhaps get a different eccentric bolt).
TonyG
TonyG
No you don't. A wood block and a 5lbs sledge hammer work fine.
In fact, if you have a track alignment with a lot of negative camber, the eccentric tool will only take out toe, but is out of range to add toe. Thus if you adjust your toe out too far you're SOL.
"After you've aligned the rear of these cars over and over, you just set your camber, then set the toe wtih the wood block and hammer.
I can align the back of the car in about 20 min after the initial setup and roll out.
TonyG"
Well that's pretty impressive and I don't doubt "you can do it!" But if I am paying to have an alignment done the tech had better not come at my car with a block of wood and a sledge hammer!
In fact, if you have a track alignment with a lot of negative camber, the eccentric tool will only take out toe, but is out of range to add toe. Thus if you adjust your toe out too far you're SOL.
"After you've aligned the rear of these cars over and over, you just set your camber, then set the toe wtih the wood block and hammer.
I can align the back of the car in about 20 min after the initial setup and roll out.
TonyG"
Well that's pretty impressive and I don't doubt "you can do it!" But if I am paying to have an alignment done the tech had better not come at my car with a block of wood and a sledge hammer!
03-10-2010, 06:58 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
Not doubting you at all! Just sounds kinda wild! I run more camber front and rear street for now. I did a lot of research on toe and decided for me I keep the toe to factory specs.
Saw something about too much toe inducing snap over steer! I'll pass on that! Don't want to change what I don't understand so I maxed caster and added camber (camber plates db Adj Koni's MO30 Turbos S running staggered 17's,New MO30 Sway bars)
Saw something about too much toe inducing snap over steer! I'll pass on that! Don't want to change what I don't understand so I maxed caster and added camber (camber plates db Adj Koni's MO30 Turbos S running staggered 17's,New MO30 Sway bars)
03-11-2010, 02:25 AM
#13
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Not doubting you at all! Just sounds kinda wild! I run more camber front and rear street for now. I did a lot of research on toe and decided for me I keep the toe to factory specs.
Saw something about too much toe inducing snap over steer! I'll pass on that! Don't want to change what I don't understand so I maxed caster and added camber (camber plates db Adj Koni's MO30 Turbos S running staggered 17's,New MO30 Sway bars)
Saw something about too much toe inducing snap over steer! I'll pass on that! Don't want to change what I don't understand so I maxed caster and added camber (camber plates db Adj Koni's MO30 Turbos S running staggered 17's,New MO30 Sway bars)
Factory specs are fine for a street car but are no where near what's needed for a race track.
TonyG
