Where are you guys getting your control arms?
#17
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We have a few rebuit on our used and overstock page.
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/USEDPART.html
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/USEDPART.html
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Mike or Dave Lindsey
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Other 1-405-947-0137
Mike or Dave Lindsey
www.lindseyracing.com
U.S. 1-877-943-3565
Other 1-405-947-0137
#18
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The high strung arms look very nice! But spherical joints is not a good idea on a street car, is it? (I fear they will wear out fast).
What is the best control arm for a daily driven street car?
What is the best control arm for a daily driven street car?
#19
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#20
Nordschleife Master
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My brother in law's control arms are probably the best deal going. He has not worked out a distributor yet (but is talking with a couple of well known 944 parts sellers and rennlist sponsors now). So, now would be a great time to buy them before the price gets bumped up. There is some info here: http://forum.44cup.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=28. PM me for his contact info if you're interested.
![](http://www.revline.se/cars/RRXXX/2010/green_teaser2.jpg)
#22
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My brother in law's control arms are probably the best deal going. He has not worked out a distributor yet (but is talking with a couple of well known 944 parts sellers and rennlist sponsors now). So, now would be a great time to buy them before the price gets bumped up. There is some info here: http://forum.44cup.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=28. PM me for his contact info if you're interested.
#23
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I'm amazed at the general lack of understanding of front end geometry here ...
it its such a ridicules waste of money to upgrade to flashy mugatu arms and keep the same
incorrect castor and and incorrect short ball joints ..
it its such a ridicules waste of money to upgrade to flashy mugatu arms and keep the same
incorrect castor and and incorrect short ball joints ..
#24
Burning Brakes
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Why be amazed? Not much of a stretch to say most people are clueless about suspension geometry/ correction. I’m one of them, but know people who are well versed and feed me bits at a time. I’m sure there is good info on here and I’ve also been given a book list to purchase.
#25
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I'm amazed as some one is cutting tube making little bushes buying correct heim joints measuring stuff and making it all this requires skills and research .. So they are obviously skilled +intelligent guys
it is very little effort to make them a bit better ....
and those Charlie arm 's .???
once the bearings and ball joints have been corrected to you really think Billet machined item is superior to a forged one ??
it is very little effort to make them a bit better ....
and those Charlie arm 's .???
once the bearings and ball joints have been corrected to you really think Billet machined item is superior to a forged one ??
#27
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#28
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The Xchop guy here is making a very affordable solution, I think he just needs help in the "design" department from some of the people here, or at least he should offer the recipie that some want. Some want castor, some want adjustable this, etc, etc. I too would get one, if it was endorsed by the racers. The e30 M3''s have almost 6' of castor, and they feel great at the track...of course it could be a bunch of other stuff too....
But I won't be spending 1500 or 900 either.
But I won't be spending 1500 or 900 either.
#29
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more castor allows you to reduce the neg camber and you will then have more front grip while braking..but the same cornering power .
setting up for bolt on ball joints is nice as they are cheap but a rod end and shaft allows you to set up the control arm horizontal or better so the wheel scrub is positive. With the control arms raking down to the cross member as seen on many lowered cars the side loading of cornering increases the compression of the outer wheel .. you are then compensating for this with harder springs and sway bars ..
setting up for bolt on ball joints is nice as they are cheap but a rod end and shaft allows you to set up the control arm horizontal or better so the wheel scrub is positive. With the control arms raking down to the cross member as seen on many lowered cars the side loading of cornering increases the compression of the outer wheel .. you are then compensating for this with harder springs and sway bars ..
#30
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IMHO, for a street car (brrgrr can chime in about my former black car) the SSI full bronze kit on good factory arms(SSI checks for cracks) with weltmiester bushings and new 968 castor blocks "ain't bad" - again, street car. For a bit better handling, read inner tire wear, you can add a bit of negative camber and it works well on the street. Daily driver I'd go against the negative camber but...up to you. All of our upgrades are really up to the wallet or check book balance eh?