incomplete

ok, cool. i'll be placing an order today w/my new best friends (lindsey racing) for fuel lines, 3 bar FPR, and some harnesses.

sounds like a good idea.

yeah, i want to really figure out the wastegate situation asap.

regarding the cycling valve deletion, i have a couple of questions:

1) what exactly does that do for me?

2) looking at some diagrams, it appears i block off the small vacuum fitting on the intake pipe, and (depending on the wastegate) run a vacuum line directly from the hard pipe banjo bolt to the wastegate. is this correct?

fyi, i will also be doing the venturi delete.

it's been replaced w/a widefire gasket in the last few years. i will take a closer look once i get the intake manifold off.

will do.

well, since i'm still recovering from a sinus infection, i'm working from home today and will see about pulling the intake manifold off this afternoon. more pics and updates to come...

thanks again for all the help. it's MUCH appreciated!

shane

Josh B

This guy has some cool stuff too - I really like his fuel pressure gauge... www.pauertuning.com

You really need to figure out the mod path you are going to take before buying a 3 bar fpr. Injectors, turbo size, FPR and air intake setup (MAF or AFM) really need to be tuned for on the chips that you are using. Otherwise you are going to end up killing your engine. It might run fast for a little while but it won't last.

You fuel pressure could be at 40psi right now in other words and the car is running 11.5 AFR under boost but then you go and put a 45psi (3 bar) FPR on there and now the car is running too rich. Or inversely it could cause it to run too lean - an even worse situation.

To put it simply you have a lot of unknowns right now - A/F, EGT, boost curve etc. If it were me I would put the car back to stock and start over again with the mods. Actually in stock form these cars have more than enough power to learn on and have fun with at the track. Actually the stuff that will make you go faster at the track and be safer isn't just on the engine. It would be better to have an unmodded car with solid maintenance(rod bearings, headgasket) on the engine and rebuilt suspension (bushings, ball joints, rebuilt shocks etc) and a tight brake system than a super fast car with sloppy brakes and suspension.

incomplete

well, big update today... i did two 1.5 hour sessions, and got the intake manifold and a bunch of other stuff off. it was crazy... mismatched bolts, tons of gunk, and a lot of the vacuum fittings were loose. the AOS fitting, for example, i found disconnected after the manifold came off. many hoses cracked as i pulled them off and i am damn glad i decided to do this.

the fuel hose on the dampener is fine. all of the other hoses are suspect, so it's time for some new braided ones.

i'm not up for replacing the injector harness (yet), so it'll get thermal shielding. my opinion might change once i look more closely at all of the harnesses and find them in bad condition.

once i get everything planned out, i'm going to gut the current vacuum setup, block off important stuff and degrease most of the engine. then it's time to put everything back together!

some new pics below, and even more (not that exciting) ones up in the album:
http://picasaweb.google.com/incomple...44TurboProject

the intake valves look ok, i forgot to take a pic and i'm too lazy/it's too dark and scary outside for me to go do that now.

here's a pic of the inside of the manifold, looks a little gunky. i'll be cleaning this out asap:



the engine is NASTY. i bet that's 25 years of crap that's accumulated... i even found some spider webs on some hoses!



i think this pic sums up the age and condition of the vacuum system quite well. while pulling it off of a fitting, it cracked loudly enough to startle me:



there's some visible oil, but a preliminary inspection doesn't make me think it's the head gasket:



there are two big dents in my hardpipe, so i'll put that on the short list of things to replace. i don't think it's critical to do this immediately:



here's the turbo... from looking at some pics, it seems i have the K26/8:



i found this sitting on top of the engine after taking off the manifold. wtf is it? is it important?

jerome951

First order of business is to stuff paper towels or rags into the intake ports (or put tape over them). Don't want stuff falling in there (ask me how I know)....

While you're checking stuff, also check the coolant hoses that are more easily accessed w/ the intake off.

incomplete

as soon as i put the camera down, i taped over the intake ports.

yeah, i supposedly had all of the coolant lines replaced a month and a half ago, but the ones under/around the manifold don't look new. i'm calling the shop today to see if they took off the intake manifold and worked on those coolant lines.

if they did, shame on them for not replacing them all, and not tightening all the bolts and hose fittings when they were done

if they didn't, shame on them for not doing the work i had asked for (and possibly paid for, i need to check the itemized receipt and see).

:\

on a much brighter note, i pulled out the old plugs and they look pretty good!





ok, so maybe this one is a little worse for wear...

MM951

FYI: The intercooler pipes are supposed to be like that

Josh B

I wouldn't get too stressed about the inside of the intake looking like that - little bit of blow by and build-up on everything past the turbo is par for the course - especially on a modded car. You should pull the intercooler and run some gasoline through it and see what you find

reno808

the last pic with the quarter is a neg cap for the battery. dude u have a lot of HW to do. good luck

aben8057

Hey Shane...welcome to the fun

BTW...save that quarter...your going to need it and all the hard work will pay off the first lap around the track...

incomplete

yes, i do have a lot of homework to do. plus, i didn't expect the negative cap to be hiding under the intake manifold.

the car will be a weekend car, and used for HPDE/track days. i want to retain drivability and some creature comforts initially, so i can then make longer-term decisions regarding how far i want to go in making it a track car.

regarding the 'mod path' i want to take, here's the short term (next few months):

1) identify everything that's been modded
- brakes
- wastegate
- suspension

2) engine:
- fuel lines
- electrical (including harnesses if need be)
- heat (wrapping exhaust manifold, simple shield around intake, etc)
- vacuum lines (venturi delete, etc)
- delete cruise control (no need for it)
- tune!
- gauges (shift light, working mixture, oil and water temp)

3) suspension/brakes/tires/alignment
- new pads, possibly rotors
- front strut brace
- spacers for front tires (225/50-16 is rubbing a little bit up front), or narrower
- alignment/corner balance (mildly aggressive)
- check current springs/torsion bars/sway bars

4) interior
- harness bar
- race seats

i've done a bunch of track days and some wheel to wheel racing (24 hours of lemons!), and i have learned my lessons: it's better to be solid and reliable than fast and fragile. after scorching my prelude's rotors, losing my brakes on a downhill while entering turn 10 @ thunderhill and going off-track, the important things to me, in order, are:
- brakes that work. period.
- engine that works. period.
- suspension and tires that lets me take advantage of the above two.

anyways, i'm taking the weekend off from working on the car, as it'll be raining and i'm waiting for some parts to come in. more updates and pics as the project progresses. thanks again for the assistance.

shane

incomplete

well, the weekend is over and that means it's time to work on the car. today, i just decided to gut as much of the vacuum system as i could before it got too dark. i have a ton of parts coming in, and a business trip next week, so i'd like to get everything ready for when i get back home.

things went pretty well... i only have a couple of quick questions, and (of course) some great past repairs to bring a chuckle and lighten your evening.

questions:

what hoses/coupling is this? there was obviously an old repair, and one of the T fittings is blocked off.




what is this line (the clear plastic one w/the duct tape)?




i took a closer look at the potential oil leak, and it seems to be just spray from the AOS (which was completely disconnected).




i also wasn't able to seem to find my brake booster check valve. i guess i will take another look and confirm, and then order a new one.

and now, for the funny fix of the day... the ICV was held loosely in place with two zip ties! in all honesty, it's probably not *that* bad, but it still made me shake my head:




this is a nice pile of hoses on the left!




next up, wiring harness removal/refurb, and engine cleaning!



shane

incomplete

well, it seems that picasa changed all of the image url after it decided to completely bork up the album and force me to re-create it. so, all the image links are busted. i guess as time goes on i'll fix them up (like i did my last post).

anyways, it's been a while since i updated the thread, so i thought i'd share some developments and new pics!

first off, i am throwing in the towel and having the car towed to a shop to get finished off. the deeper i look, the more i find that needs attention. the initial task of just replacing the vacuum hoses has mushroomed in to a bigger overall project.

this was initially a tough decision, but made pretty easy because:
1) i don't know porsches that well, and things are getting nuts
2) i may need a new head gasket
3) i want to tape up the exhaust manifold, which looks to be a *pain*
4) i have 90% of the parts i need
5) i've done most of the disassembly labor already
6) i really don't feel like installing a new wiring harness and battery leads (yep. they're shot)
7) the shop i will be using will be donating some free labor thanks to them missing a bunch of stuff on the pre-purchase inspection. glad i worked that out w/them!

so, my last session from earlier this week included cleaning/rebuilding the injectors (i still need to get them tested/matched), and cleaning up the engine block a bit.

here's my main wiring harness, after i broke off the melted cheap-*** corrugated plastic sheathing that had melted to the engine block:





my motor, post-degreasing... the cracks and crevasses were filled with almost 1" of oil/dirt:




and, my freshly cleaned and built injectors:




here's the plan of action for getting the engine running... lemme know if i'm missing anything obvious!

1) check head gasket, replace w/widefire if necessary
2) id the wastegate
3) install the venturi delete silicon hoses (provided)
4) run a new hose to the AOS (i may just do this myself as it's so easy)
5) replace all main battery leads (cracked to hell)
6) replace main wiring harness and put thermal sheathing over it (cracked to hell)
7) new plugs and wires (provided)
8) install fuel pressure gauge in the bay, debug from there
9) injectors tested
10) replace my ****ty A/F gauge with my new shiny one: http://www.034motorsport.com/product...tu1nraeo013vo5
11) install the shiny new braided fuel lines
12) put the rail and intake manifold on w/matching bolts (don't ask. please.)

well, i've learned a lot about the car and this will go a long way to helping me maintain it once the damn thing runs again! i'll post more updates as they come.

shane

LUCKYJACKASS

I don't know if you already bought new reference sensors, but the cheapest I found were from FPC Grotons website. - $75 each and they are Bosch. Have had no problems getting parts form them. Good luck with everything.

LUCKYJACKASS

Make that FCP Groton.

Van

Hopefully the light at the end of the tunnel isn't a speeding Mercedes SLS...