pudges951

I just want to double check my findings here to see if I'm correct in my assumption. I checked my DME temp sensor and my cold reading is about 5600ohms, according to the clarks garage test procedure, the reading should only be about 2200-2700ohms. I'm guessing that my reading is far enough out of the spec that my sensor is bad. My hot reading was dead on, but the cold reading was not.

Am I correct that I need a new sensor? Thanks in advance.

Rogue_Ant

Sounds like it. I would also double-check the wiring.

Bri Bro

It depends on how cold it was. You might want to measure at the sensor, then the DME connector.

pudges951

I did take the measurement at both the sensor and the dme plug with the same reading so it shouldn't be a wiring issue.

Brian, can you attach that doc as a bigger file? I can't read it or enlarge it.

Tom M'Guinn

Google says it's in the 30's today in New Oxford, PA. If so, 5600ohms is in the right ball park based on Brian's chart, assuming you are talking about the same sensor.

Bri Bro

Air temp C to F chart.
http://www.alldownunder.com/oz-k/con...ture-chart.htm

pudges951

Hmm, I thought for sure that sensor was causing my super rich idle when cold. Once the car is warmed up it runs a little rich becaue I am still working on the tune but not bad. When cold however, it runs below 10 and smokes like a freight train. Any other ideas why? I am going to get a MAX chip here shortly matched to my setup but I think there is another issue going on.

Bri Bro

Did you check the other air temp sensor?

pudges951

As in the plug on MAF set up? I'm a little confused on which sensor you are talking about here brian.

Bri Bro

The aftermarket MAF and the factory AFM both have temp sensors in them. If they don't work correctly, you will have problems in cold weather starts.

I see you are using the Huntley MAF. The Huntley MAF didn't have this temp sensor and cold weather starts were a problem. To fix it, a lot of people added in a thermistor temp sensor and this solved the problem. as I remember the common problem was a lean start but I will dig up some old posts.

fbgh2o

Can a suggest cleaning all of your grounds - it can't hurt in any case. I chased this condition forever and finally solved it by cleaning my grounds. That being said, I was just rich everywhere.

Bri Bro

Some old posts about the cold start MAF problem. Good old soap opera days of Anderson, Huntley. Danno and Tim work the Ca market .

Scene 1) Houston we have a problem.
https://rennlist.com/forums/555579-post1.html
Scene 2) That can't happen.
https://rennlist.com/forums/555632-post54.html
Scene 3) Pissed off customers fix the problem.
https://rennlist.com/forums/1525589-post1.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/806273-post8.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/565333-post19.html
Scene 4) Huntley goes out-of business... lots of angry customers. Later pops up in South America.
https://rennlist.com/forums/4078689-post17.html

pudges951

Thanks for the link Brian, I know the huntley maf isn't the best by far but I was in a pinch and a fellow lister helped me out. I do have a thermister I got to install in the maf to try to overcome this, but there was no difference between that being installed or unhooked, maybe I have a wire switched as it concerns that.

My question is however, in all the cases above the car was running lean when idling, whereas mine is running pig rich??? I'm about to bite the bullet and get a full vitesse set up here shortly...

Bri Bro

The running rich during a cold start-up make no sense for the missing VAR. You need to see what the signal is to the DME for the VAT sensor and understand how your current chip deals with this signal. The ARC supplied a fixed voltage to the DME and this worked in Ca where the temps didn't get really cold. So, what voltage is your current setup supplying to the DME for the VAR voltage?

I read you have some new chips coming so keep your fingers crossed that it helps the problem. Doctors call it practicing medicine and after market suppliers call it tuning. Bottom line is it takes multiple tries to get things sorted out. Good luck!

PS: Clean your MAF sensor, dirt/oil can effect the readings. Just go to any parts store and ask for some MAF cleaner spray.

Tom M'Guinn

I went from a Huntley MAF to the Vitesse kit and it was just a night and day difference. With the Huntley MAF, I installed the temp sensor, tried every chip set I could find, tried adjustable fuel pressure, changed injectors, etc.. After years of fussing, it still had a barely streetable tune by any definition. It was always a compromise -- I could get an ok around town tune, but the WOT would be way off, or vice versa. With the Vitesse MAF and software, it was like buying a new car -- factory smooth right out of the box, with the ability to pinpoint tune via the SMT6. I recommend it.