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Front main seal - why does it still leak?

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Old 01-05-2010, 03:42 PM
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Mark-87-951
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Default Front main seal - why does it still leak?

I replaced the drive gear which hae the groove our cars eventually get and figured that would take care of it. I also replaced the seal that gets pressed into the pump and the seal on the crankshaft that fits into the end of the drive gear.

So why does it still leak?

I think the seal that's pressed into the pump ended up very slightly crooked. Is that enough for it to leak? I scratched the camshaft during all this. I polished the scratch as best I could and it is under the drive gear so that shouldnt be a problem right?

I torqued it all down properly and get oil pressure.
Old 01-05-2010, 04:01 PM
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So new drive gear, front seal, and green o-ring in front of the gear? Did you put the big flat washer on? It goes on top of the green o-ring, to sandwich the o-ring between the washer and drive gear.

How did you install the front seal? I have found its best to use a section of PVC pipe which matches the seal, then put a small block of wood on the end of the pipe and tap the center of the wood with a hammer. That helps it go in straight.

Its also possible that the spring thats inside the lip of the seal rolled off, and thus thats not sealing.
Old 01-05-2010, 04:33 PM
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Mark-87-951
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Yes new o-ring and the washer was installed. I can't imagine it going together with the washer in the wrong place.

I installed the seal by using the pulley gear turned around and placing the old drive gear over that and then tightening down the crankshaft bolt.
Old 01-05-2010, 05:16 PM
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Van
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I've damaged front seals putting them in...
Old 01-05-2010, 06:57 PM
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Mark-87-951
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Originally Posted by Van
I've damaged front seals putting them in...
Well if it can be done, I bet that's what I managed to do

At least now I know the oil pump does not need to come off. That will save me TONS of work that I created when I stripped 2 of the bolt holes and broke one bolt because I had the torque setting way too high. I got a new skill for the trouble though, tap and insert new threads.

Probably just best to order new seal and o-ring.
Old 01-05-2010, 07:57 PM
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The o-ring and drive gear are probably fine.

You might be able to pull the seal and find it locally, too.
Old 01-05-2010, 10:56 PM
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clarks garage get the part number and have that handy talking to a local parts dude 20$
Old 01-06-2010, 09:54 AM
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cruise98
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Lube the seal thoroughly before you install it. I use assembly lube on and also on the drive gear. I have had trouble with the front seal too. The home made installer and assembly lube solved it for me.
Old 01-06-2010, 10:25 AM
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If the seal is seated even slightly crookedly, it's probably distorted and not going to seal properly.

On some cars these seem to be a tighter fit than on others. I wasted two seals before I got the third one to seat properly when I did mine. It was getting tedious and expensive.

Other people have reported they can push theirs in with their fingers. Not mine...
Old 01-06-2010, 01:40 PM
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Mark-87-951
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Originally Posted by Mark944na86
If the seal is seated even slightly crookedly, it's probably distorted and not going to seal properly.

On some cars these seem to be a tighter fit than on others. I wasted two seals before I got the third one to seat properly when I did mine. It was getting tedious and expensive.

Other people have reported they can push theirs in with their fingers. Not mine...
Mine is a tight fit as well.
Old 01-06-2010, 01:41 PM
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Mark-87-951
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Originally Posted by cruise98
Lube the seal thoroughly before you install it. I use assembly lube on and also on the drive gear. I have had trouble with the front seal too. The home made installer and assembly lube solved it for me.
Is the home made installer different than the method I used?
Old 01-06-2010, 02:57 PM
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The home made installer is what you described.
Old 01-06-2010, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cruise98
The home made installer is what you described.
Actually, he didn't mention if he had used a tube of similar diameter to the the seal to actually press on the seal; pressing with the gear itself is not very reliable.

I used a short section of steel pipe that was about 1mm less in outer diameter than the seal. Other materials, such as PVC or even hard wood could also be used.

Last edited by Mark944na86; 01-06-2010 at 09:36 PM.
Old 01-06-2010, 09:28 PM
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Mark-87-951
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Originally Posted by Mark944na86
Actually, he didn't mention if he had used a tube of similar diameter to the the seal to actuall press on the seal; pressing with the gear itself is not very reliable.

I used a short section of steel pipe that was about 1mm less in outer diameter than the seal. Other materials, such as PVC or even hard wood could also be used.
You are correct I did not have something else to mate better with the seal which no doubt contributed to the problem. I can get PVC at Menards close by, what dimension would be best?
Old 01-06-2010, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark-87-951
You are correct I did not have something else to mate better with the seal which no doubt contributed to the problem. I can get PVC at Menards close by, what dimension would be best?
You want a section of tube that has an outer diameter as close as possible but not greater than, the outer diameter of the seal. Stouter (thicker pipe) material is better than thinner. Make sure you cut as square as possible. About 1" in length should work IIRC.


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