Notices
944 Turbo and Turbo-S Forum 1982-1991
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Clore Automotive

clutch fork installation - still need help!!!

Old 01-01-2010, 06:45 PM
  #1  
jerome951
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
jerome951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Germantown, Maryland
Posts: 2,706
Received 62 Likes on 52 Posts
Default clutch fork installation - still need help!!!

Hi Everyone,

First of all, I hope everyone has a safe, healthy, and automotively-excellent 2010.

I'm in the middle of installing a new clutch (930 disk) and want to make sure the fork is installed properly before I continue buttoning everything up.

For some reason the position of the fork seems too far toward the front of the car so I'm concerned the fork is riding on top of the TO bearing rather than underneath (if that is even possible).

So I ask the clutch experts out there, does this look right?

Thanks in advance,
Jerome
Attached Images  

Last edited by jerome951; 01-02-2010 at 09:56 AM.
Old 01-01-2010, 07:04 PM
  #2  
Van
Rennlist Member
 
Van's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 12,007
Received 88 Likes on 58 Posts
Default

Yes. The slave cylinder plunger goes into that "cup".
Old 01-01-2010, 07:18 PM
  #3  
samluke
Burning Brakes
 
samluke's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St Augustine FL
Posts: 1,077
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Looks too far forward to me. On my car there is very little room between the lever and and the side of hole, with the clutch engaged. It looks like you may not get enough travel to release reliably. You might want to hook up the slave cylinder and try it before going any further.
Old 01-01-2010, 08:08 PM
  #4  
KuHL 951
Hey Man
Rennlist Member

 
KuHL 951's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Nor Cal, Seal Rock, OR
Posts: 16,508
Received 177 Likes on 105 Posts
Default

^^I agree. I test fit a slightly used 930m disc on mine and the cup is definitely closer to the slave than that unless it's the camera angle. Any chance the TOB shims are on the wrong side of the PP?
Old 01-01-2010, 08:45 PM
  #5  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 533 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by samluke
You might want to hook up the slave cylinder and try it before going any further.
^^That's what I've done -- just be sure to slide the torque tube spline in first, or your disk will drop when you press the pedal.
Old 01-01-2010, 08:53 PM
  #6  
jerome951
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
jerome951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Germantown, Maryland
Posts: 2,706
Received 62 Likes on 52 Posts
Default

Thanks Guys,
You got me really thinking so I went over in my head how I assembled the TO bearing. I think I have the d#*@ thing backwards!!!

When assembling, I followed Clark's Garage instructions, which says to place the friction side of the PP upward and push down to compress the finger. This seemed backwards to me as the fingers are pointing up when the friction surface is up. I think I put the friction side down (fingers pointing down), put the TO bearing up from underneath (with the toothed ring against the PP fingers), put a hockey puck under the TO bearing, then pushed down on the PP edges to straighten the fingers and put the remaining thick ring and snap ring on the bearing. So I don't think I have anything for the clutch fork to grab onto.

Now that also explains why getting the PP bolts started on the flywheel was such a pain. I had to compress the PP about 3/8" using a C clamp to get the bolts started.


To keep me from screwing this up again, can someone give me the process for assembling the TO bearing?
Is the toothed ring meant to be angled with or against the PP fingers?
What shims are people mentioning? My bearing (genuine Porsche item) contained a thin washer to hold the toothed ring, the toothed ring, a thick ring for underneath the snap ring, and the snap ring. Nothing else.

Thanks for all your help.
Jerome
Old 01-01-2010, 09:03 PM
  #7  
cruise98
Three Wheelin'
 
cruise98's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 1,576
Received 22 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

There are not any shims on the turbo throw out bearing.
Old 01-01-2010, 09:13 PM
  #8  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 533 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jerome951
I had to compress the PP about 3/8" using a C clamp to get the bolts started.

Jerome
Something's not right there for sure. If no one does in the meantime, I'll snap some pictures for you in the morning showing how the throw out bearing is installed/situated in the PP.
Old 01-01-2010, 09:49 PM
  #9  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 533 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Start by putting the throw out bearing down as shown, then slide the flat washer on, then slide the spring washer on with the tangs pointing down as shown in this picture.
Attached Images  
Old 01-01-2010, 09:51 PM
  #10  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 533 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Once the washer and spring washer are on the throw out bearing, put the pressure plate on top of the throw out bearing with the friction side up. Then push down on the pressure plate to install the retaining ring.
Attached Images  
Old 01-01-2010, 09:53 PM
  #11  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 533 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Once the retaining clip is fully in the grove, the throw out bearing is installed. It looks like this from the other side.
Attached Images  
Old 01-01-2010, 09:53 PM
  #12  
PorscheDoc
Addict
Rennlist Member


Rennlist
Site Sponsor
 
PorscheDoc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Under Your Car
Posts: 8,058
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by cruise98
There are not any shims on the turbo throw out bearing.
Lol, yes there are. Typically you use 2 of the 3 provided.
Old 01-01-2010, 10:09 PM
  #13  
jerome951
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
jerome951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Germantown, Maryland
Posts: 2,706
Received 62 Likes on 52 Posts
Default

Thanks Tom. I appreciate the pics and description. I definitely put it upside down. What a way to start 2010.

Karl, there were no shims other than shown in the pics by Tom. The bearing is one purchased from the dealer and didn't come w/ any shims. Should I be concerned? I did notice that my old bearing had no shims and was a little loose.
Old 01-02-2010, 02:08 AM
  #14  
Tom M'Guinn

Rennlist Member
 
Tom M'Guinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Just CA Now :)
Posts: 12,567
Received 533 Likes on 287 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
Once the washer and spring washer are on the throw out bearing, put the pressure plate on top of the throw out bearing with the friction side up. Then push down on the pressure plate to install the retaining ring.
I should have also mentioned the thick washer in that picture -- seen in the center of the pressure plate. That thick washer needs to be placed such that the grove/bevel for the retaining ring is facing up (to form the recess for the retaining ring).
Old 01-02-2010, 06:37 AM
  #15  
jerome951
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
jerome951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Germantown, Maryland
Posts: 2,706
Received 62 Likes on 52 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
I should have also mentioned the thick washer in that picture -- seen in the center of the pressure plate. That thick washer needs to be placed such that the grove/bevel for the retaining ring is facing up (to form the recess for the retaining ring).
Thanks a lot Tom. Something else I installed upside-down.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: clutch fork installation - still need help!!!



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 09:24 PM.