clutch fork installation - still need help!!!
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
clutch fork installation - still need help!!!
Hi Everyone,
First of all, I hope everyone has a safe, healthy, and automotively-excellent 2010.
I'm in the middle of installing a new clutch (930 disk) and want to make sure the fork is installed properly before I continue buttoning everything up.
For some reason the position of the fork seems too far toward the front of the car so I'm concerned the fork is riding on top of the TO bearing rather than underneath (if that is even possible).
So I ask the clutch experts out there, does this look right?
Thanks in advance,
Jerome
First of all, I hope everyone has a safe, healthy, and automotively-excellent 2010.
I'm in the middle of installing a new clutch (930 disk) and want to make sure the fork is installed properly before I continue buttoning everything up.
For some reason the position of the fork seems too far toward the front of the car so I'm concerned the fork is riding on top of the TO bearing rather than underneath (if that is even possible).
So I ask the clutch experts out there, does this look right?
Thanks in advance,
Jerome
Last edited by jerome951; 01-02-2010 at 09:56 AM.
#3
Burning Brakes
Looks too far forward to me. On my car there is very little room between the lever and and the side of hole, with the clutch engaged. It looks like you may not get enough travel to release reliably. You might want to hook up the slave cylinder and try it before going any further.
#4
Hey Man
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^^I agree. I test fit a slightly used 930m disc on mine and the cup is definitely closer to the slave than that unless it's the camera angle. Any chance the TOB shims are on the wrong side of the PP?
#5
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#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Guys,
You got me really thinking so I went over in my head how I assembled the TO bearing. I think I have the d#*@ thing backwards!!!
When assembling, I followed Clark's Garage instructions, which says to place the friction side of the PP upward and push down to compress the finger. This seemed backwards to me as the fingers are pointing up when the friction surface is up. I think I put the friction side down (fingers pointing down), put the TO bearing up from underneath (with the toothed ring against the PP fingers), put a hockey puck under the TO bearing, then pushed down on the PP edges to straighten the fingers and put the remaining thick ring and snap ring on the bearing. So I don't think I have anything for the clutch fork to grab onto.
Now that also explains why getting the PP bolts started on the flywheel was such a pain. I had to compress the PP about 3/8" using a C clamp to get the bolts started.
To keep me from screwing this up again, can someone give me the process for assembling the TO bearing?
Is the toothed ring meant to be angled with or against the PP fingers?
What shims are people mentioning? My bearing (genuine Porsche item) contained a thin washer to hold the toothed ring, the toothed ring, a thick ring for underneath the snap ring, and the snap ring. Nothing else.
Thanks for all your help.
Jerome
You got me really thinking so I went over in my head how I assembled the TO bearing. I think I have the d#*@ thing backwards!!!
When assembling, I followed Clark's Garage instructions, which says to place the friction side of the PP upward and push down to compress the finger. This seemed backwards to me as the fingers are pointing up when the friction surface is up. I think I put the friction side down (fingers pointing down), put the TO bearing up from underneath (with the toothed ring against the PP fingers), put a hockey puck under the TO bearing, then pushed down on the PP edges to straighten the fingers and put the remaining thick ring and snap ring on the bearing. So I don't think I have anything for the clutch fork to grab onto.
Now that also explains why getting the PP bolts started on the flywheel was such a pain. I had to compress the PP about 3/8" using a C clamp to get the bolts started.
To keep me from screwing this up again, can someone give me the process for assembling the TO bearing?
Is the toothed ring meant to be angled with or against the PP fingers?
What shims are people mentioning? My bearing (genuine Porsche item) contained a thin washer to hold the toothed ring, the toothed ring, a thick ring for underneath the snap ring, and the snap ring. Nothing else.
Thanks for all your help.
Jerome
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#8
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#9
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Start by putting the throw out bearing down as shown, then slide the flat washer on, then slide the spring washer on with the tangs pointing down as shown in this picture.
#10
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Once the washer and spring washer are on the throw out bearing, put the pressure plate on top of the throw out bearing with the friction side up. Then push down on the pressure plate to install the retaining ring.
#12
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#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Tom. I appreciate the pics and description. I definitely put it upside down. What a way to start 2010.
Karl, there were no shims other than shown in the pics by Tom. The bearing is one purchased from the dealer and didn't come w/ any shims. Should I be concerned? I did notice that my old bearing had no shims and was a little loose.
Karl, there were no shims other than shown in the pics by Tom. The bearing is one purchased from the dealer and didn't come w/ any shims. Should I be concerned? I did notice that my old bearing had no shims and was a little loose.
#14
Rennlist Member
I should have also mentioned the thick washer in that picture -- seen in the center of the pressure plate. That thick washer needs to be placed such that the grove/bevel for the retaining ring is facing up (to form the recess for the retaining ring).
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks a lot Tom. Something else I installed upside-down.