Richgreenster

After emailing Mike Lindsey at Lindsey Racing, I am almost 99% sure that it is this oil galley plug that is leaking. If it is not this plug than my block is cracked.

Will this plug be under pressure when the motor is running?

Also, yes my motor was hot tanked 500 ago. !!!! Let this be a learning lesson to ever one on this forum.. Have a machine shop that knows the 951 rebuild your motor when you need it rebuilt. !!!! This will be the second major thing that has gone wrong with my motor after a machine shop here in Utah rebuilt it. I just hope that this will be the last thing that they screwed up on.

Richgreenster

I finally got time to remove my motor for the third time to fix an oil leak. I pulled the bell housing and took some pictures of it to see what you guys think.

The first pic is an overview
The second pic is where the oil showed itself when in the car. This also would drip about 1 drip every 5-7 seconds when the car was running. (very bad leak)
The third pic is where I think that it is leaking. Correct me if I am wrong and this is not an oil plug.
The fourth pic is where more oil was found along the top most bolt area. Also the magnetic pick up sensor had oil on it. The strange thing is that when the motor was in the can and running, I could see the top side where the head sits on the block and it was dry. I also stuffed some paper towels there when I had the bad leak and they were dry as could be.
The fifth pic is a close up of the top again.

I have checked the rear main for oil but it seems dry as can be. So what would you guys do or think?

951Saga

Have you pulled the flywheel? Is there oil on it and is it being thrown on the sensor? Does the bell housing show traces of oil?

The fourth pic is where more oil was found along the top most bolt area. Also the magnetic pick up sensor had oil on it.

I can see how oil would travel from the top bolt area down the web support to that lower corner.

mikey_audiogeek

The best thing for finding oil leaks is a UV light source. Google "UV LED flashlight". Fresh oil fluoresces under UV. Oxidised old oil doesn't.

Richgreenster

The flywheel is dry and clean as can be. Also just below the top bolt in pic 4 the block is clean and dry. I think that I am going to replace the rear main and the oil gaily plug seal. Where do I get the best rear main seal? Also how do I remove the old oil gaily plug?

Richgreenster

When I change out the oil gaily plug, What should I use to seal it with?

Richgreenster

Another question if you guys know this one. What size do I need to remove the flywheel bolts and the pressure plate bolts? I want to buy new tools to do this and am not at home right now.

Richgreenster

Got my car all back together right down to every last clamp! Yeah! Started it up last night only to find that my oil leak is still the exact same. Aargh! No oil leaks what so ever until it is full temp. Then it leaks about a drop of oil every 10 seconds. I think this puts the leak into the sieve category. AKA Leaks like a Sieve.

For the life of me, I can not figure out where the oil is coming from.

Here is my next attack plan.
1. I change the oil from Mobil 1 0-40 (what Mobil 1 recommends on their site.)
Put in V1 20-50 weight, the bottle said that it was for extreme racing conditions with ZDDP in it. Also this is non synthetic. I have read that switching from synthetic to Dino oil will sometimes stop oil leaks. Also I went way up in weight. Started it up and still no change. Any thoughts on this?? Should I be patient?

2. Run this at idle (while I lay under neither the car to catch the oil before it hits the exhaust.) Try this for a few times to see if the leaks lessens or stops. (Ya right)

3. Pull the trans and torque tube this round. Then I think that I am going to spray the entire back of the motor with ????? (Need your Ideas on a paint that melts away with hot oil.) Then reassemble the bell housing, fly wheel, and sensors so that I can start the motor back up. Then when the oil runs out of the block, it should wash away the ????? and show exactly where this leak is coming from.

Tom M'Guinn

Before you tear it all apart, I'd give something like this a try:

http://www.tracerline.com/dyesforfluids_all-in-one.html

You'd hate to pull it all apart yet again only to finally find that it's coming from the back of the cam tower or some other common leak point.

Richgreenster

I will try it. The weird thing is that when I pulled it all apart, everything was dry as could be except the upper left by the reference sensors and the lower right where it drips like a sieve.(see above pics) The rear main, oil galley plug, rear cam seal and head gasket were all very dry.

What I am thinking is that maybe 0-40 weight oil is way to thin when it is hot and may leave such a light trace that it is almost undetectable.

Luis de Prat

What a pity, after all that work! I hope it gets resolved soon.

Wouldn't go any lower than 5W-50 based on recommendations from Porsche centers that work on older cars.

Duke

Workshop manual says to use loctite on the mating edge.

Richgreenster

Thanks for the positive support. Its not all that bad though.. I was planning on rebuilding my torque tube at some point. Also it will give me a chance to clean the rear trans and repack the cv joints.

Adonay

I just went trough with the same problem my problem was a metal plug in the head that had just jumped out plugged it with something i crafted my self and used locktite . First we thought it was the cam housing gasket then we thought it was the rear main seal then we thought it was the headgasket. We had 5 944 heads in the shop 3 turbo heads and they did not have this "bolt/plug" in the oil channel however two of the NA heads had it there...

Richgreenster

Thanks for the input. I will check it out.