951 3.0 l 8V engine building questions
#31
#34
Updates of my project
I add some pictures about my project. Now, I´m building the rollcage in T45 steel (is a British standard for aircraft market) similar to 25CrMo4. I will put photos at the end of this month about the rollcage.
This treatment we gave to the body was to remove completly the paint and all the body components to soundproof. Means reduce weights and it is necesary to welding better.
This treatment we gave to the body was to remove completly the paint and all the body components to soundproof. Means reduce weights and it is necesary to welding better.
Last edited by ajrlredondo; 03-10-2010 at 01:20 PM.
#39
So is this the best way of stripping all the crap insulation off a car? Apart from costs, would this be the best way of preparing a car
before installing a cage and painting? Any downsides?
before installing a cage and painting? Any downsides?
#40
I add some pictures about my project. Now, I´m building the rollcage in T45 steel (is a British standard for aircraft market) similar to 25CrMo4. I will put photos at the end of this month about the rollcage.
This treatment we gave to the body was to remove completly the paint and all the body components to soundproof. Means reduce weights and it is necesary to welding better.
This treatment we gave to the body was to remove completly the paint and all the body components to soundproof. Means reduce weights and it is necesary to welding better.
Removing everything is the EASY part... rebuilding everything custom and better is not so easy... But can be fun.. be patient and realize your budget and estimated completion will probably double if you've never done or funded this kind of thing before.
Downside is all the seam sealer is removed and the body will be much weaker. you must now Weld everything.. HUGE job. Then, you can get back to your re-building process.
Last edited by 95ONE; 01-20-2010 at 03:03 AM.
#42
. Yes, this is the look the whole shell after proccess, but I think is better another similar treatment also with high temperature that Matter has in France. I made this treatment in Madrid and also there is another similar procces of blasting in UK that is better I think. Anyway due to the distance I had to made this acid treatment in Madrid. (is the problem of living in a bull´s and footbal´s country)
#43
A very unusual statement from me given my previous 944 history and love of big capacity but quite honestly in my experience, with the power your after and the difficulties with building a reliable 3.0 vs the costs and benefits.
For a reliable racer not road car, producing 350-370hp. I would stick to a 2.5 engine with a well tested package. There are many 2.5 cars that have been running 350+hp for 10's of thousands of miles on original components without issue. Running 1.2bar on a well tuned car will not be a problem for your needs and will probably give less heat issues than a 3.0 engine running 1.0bar.
If you are concerned by a need for torque which is really the only gain to be had from a 3.0 conversion at those hp levels then I would use the 3.0 crank with some Carrillo rods (because they have less clearance issues in the 2.5 block) and build a 2.8 stroker engine. You'll need pistons because the standard pistons have the gudeon pin in the wrong place for use with the 3.0 crank and the pistons come out the top of the bores but suitable pistons are readily available.
I know if I were you I wouldn't listen but maybe after a few months you'll read this again and realise.
Good luck with your project either way. Nice to see people still willing to put the work into these cars
p.s. take some figures you read with a pinch of salt
For a reliable racer not road car, producing 350-370hp. I would stick to a 2.5 engine with a well tested package. There are many 2.5 cars that have been running 350+hp for 10's of thousands of miles on original components without issue. Running 1.2bar on a well tuned car will not be a problem for your needs and will probably give less heat issues than a 3.0 engine running 1.0bar.
If you are concerned by a need for torque which is really the only gain to be had from a 3.0 conversion at those hp levels then I would use the 3.0 crank with some Carrillo rods (because they have less clearance issues in the 2.5 block) and build a 2.8 stroker engine. You'll need pistons because the standard pistons have the gudeon pin in the wrong place for use with the 3.0 crank and the pistons come out the top of the bores but suitable pistons are readily available.
I know if I were you I wouldn't listen but maybe after a few months you'll read this again and realise.
Good luck with your project either way. Nice to see people still willing to put the work into these cars
p.s. take some figures you read with a pinch of salt
#45
For a big BHP road car where the hit of acceleration can never be big enough and the parts are only subjected to full throttle for tiny moments of its life this, exotic home engineered projects are excellent fun but for serious hour upon hour of full racing abuse I'd probably stick with the multi million pound developed and long proved original. How many 3.0 cars have been tested for 40-50 thousand miles at 350+ hp? I'm sure you can name a few 2.5's. Horses for courses.