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Old 06-22-2010, 01:35 PM
  #31  
ehall
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Originally Posted by Got Me a Porsha
I believe it did, but we had other issues, and have replaced everything (rebuilt engine) since then.

Heater valve is probably original...seems to work, havent seen it leak either. Been turning the heater on with the windows down (105F outside) the last few days; that **** gets old real fast!
Yes it does. We have 90+% humidity here, so BTDT. Not fun. How does the temp react when you turn the heat on?
I'm starting to think it might be the griffin. The second GB didn't go well, as I recall.
Old 06-22-2010, 01:35 PM
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minho78
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Would you run the car without the Nose Panel within the same conditions?
Old 06-22-2010, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Got Me a Porsha
It must be getting airflow...the condenser gets ample air to keep the a/c cold...and there is no blockage.

Load seems to be a cause.

Ill buy that the coolant may not be flowing well, but why??
Right, well since the condenser is in front of the radiator the AC will be Fine but the Radiator is lacking cooling flow.
Old 06-22-2010, 01:55 PM
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944Willie
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This may be a silly question, but I have never seen the fan on the 944's. Is it metal or plastic? We had a lot of our built hot cars and pulling trucks that went to high volume plastic fans. The fans flattened out under load and did not pull any air. If we have metal fans this would not be an issue.
Old 06-22-2010, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 944Willie
This may be a silly question, but I have never seen the fan on the 944's. Is it metal or plastic? We had a lot of our built hot cars and pulling trucks that went to high volume plastic fans. The fans flattened out under load and did not pull any air. If we have metal fans this would not be an issue.
That's not the issue. If that was the issue this would be a well known problem for all 944/951's.
Old 06-22-2010, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ehall
Yes it does. We have 90+% humidity here, so BTDT. Not fun. How does the temp react when you turn the heat on?
I'm starting to think it might be the griffin. The second GB didn't go well, as I recall.
I'm starting to wonder that as well, about the Griffin. Every part of the system is functional, and fine to a given temperature...then it just goes to hell from that point on.

Has anyone else had issues with their Griffin radiators? I would hate to buy a new stock radiator just to troubleshoot...but at this point, its that, or an LS1
Old 06-22-2010, 02:10 PM
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pull the radiator and check it for blockages. A number of folks talked of the sloppy welding that was done on the second run of the GB. I had one, that I never installed, that actually had a puncture, which I didn't know about until I sold it. We got things worked out on the deal, but I KNOW that radiator had never been damaged by me. It was from the factory like that.
If that can happen, then what might be going on in the radiator?
Old 06-22-2010, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by minho78
Right, well since the condenser is in front of the radiator the AC will be Fine but the Radiator is lacking cooling flow.
yep.
Old 06-22-2010, 02:18 PM
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Tedro951
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You mentioned that when the car is stopped and comes back down to normal temp, bringing the RPM to 3500 will quickly bring the temp back up. I think this would eliminate "load" as the enemy. The fact that it cools fine at idle leads me to believe the radiator is OK.

My money is on a collapsed rad hose.
Old 06-22-2010, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedro951
You mentioned that when the car is stopped and comes back down to normal temp, bringing the RPM to 3500 will quickly bring the temp back up. I think this would eliminate "load" as the enemy. The fact that it cools fine at idle leads me to believe the radiator is OK.

My money is on a collapsed rad hose.
could be.
Old 06-22-2010, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedro951
You mentioned that when the car is stopped and comes back down to normal temp, bringing the RPM to 3500 will quickly bring the temp back up. I think this would eliminate "load" as the enemy. The fact that it cools fine at idle leads me to believe the radiator is OK.

My money is on a collapsed rad hose.
I certainly agree that there is a restriction somewhere. That would explain the increased heat with RPM.
Old 06-22-2010, 02:28 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Tedro951
You mentioned that when the car is stopped and comes back down to normal temp, bringing the RPM to 3500 will quickly bring the temp back up. I think this would eliminate "load" as the enemy. The fact that it cools fine at idle leads me to believe the radiator is OK.

My money is on a collapsed rad hose.
Very intriguing!

That thought has crossed my mind. I have checked them when cold/warm, and they feel fine. All hoses were replaced when we built the motor, and they appear to be in great shape. Does anybody know if either radiator hose should have a coil spring inside of it? Mine do not.

After reviewing the diagram on Clarks Garage, the flow goes from bottom to top...so it could be either hose.

Last edited by Got Me a Porsha; 06-22-2010 at 02:37 PM. Reason: Thinking...
Old 06-22-2010, 02:34 PM
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If you have someone around, have them run the RPM up while you watch the hose. This is prolly a stupid question, but did you replace the cap when you got the new rad? I'm guessing it came with one...
Old 06-22-2010, 02:36 PM
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Yep usually lower radiator hoses collapsing causes that issue. One more thing what about your exhaust, is there any restrictions such has collapsed downpipe?
Old 06-22-2010, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedro951
If you have someone around, have them run the RPM up while you watch the hose. This is prolly a stupid question, but did you replace the cap when you got the new rad? I'm guessing it came with one...
Well you could rev the Engine from the engine bay and check the hose from the top.


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