Intercooler selection
09-13-2009, 03:36 PM
#31
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http://www.speedforceracing.com/index.php?productID=739
Does it fit fine with stock intercooler pipes ?
09-13-2009, 08:30 PM
#32
Out of curiosity, would I need to retune the car after the intercooler upgrade? My old unit is a LR stage II.
I have a JME camshaft, springs and retainer that I have had in my garage for some time. If a new tune is required, I would probably wait and do both at the same time. I have been waiting for my final smog check on the 951 before putting in a more aggressive cam that could increase HC and CO emissions. (I do plan to keep the catalytic converter to minimize my negative impact on the environment even after smog checks are no longer required.)
I have a JME camshaft, springs and retainer that I have had in my garage for some time. If a new tune is required, I would probably wait and do both at the same time. I have been waiting for my final smog check on the 951 before putting in a more aggressive cam that could increase HC and CO emissions. (I do plan to keep the catalytic converter to minimize my negative impact on the environment even after smog checks are no longer required.)
09-14-2009, 12:16 AM
#33
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Well, I wasn't able to pull the header panel today, but will try to do so this week and take some pictures.
I didn't mean to sugar-coat the installation. In a nutsehll, this is what I did (with car on jack stands):
1. Removed the header panel
2. Removed i/c pipes and couplers
3. removed stock intercooler duct and intercooler
4. Remove lower intercooler duct (had to loosen the oil cooler and make a small cut in the plastic duct -- with more patience, could have avoided cutting it)
5. removed batwing and undid zip ties holding harness to front of cross member.
6. Secured harness under cross member using unused threaded holes under cross member (used looped clamps like the one that holds the cc cable to the top of the intake-- looks just like the factory did it)
7. Trimmed non-structural plastic tabs protruding on the inside of the bumber cover
8. Bent chassis brackets out of way (which used to hold factory duct work). Could be bent back but would be ugly -- bet even a concourse judge coulnd't see it.
9. Pulled off M6 studs on cross member (not sure I needed to pull them all)
10. Ground bumper support to make room for i/c pipes and couplers (after masking off engine compartment)
11. Installed rivnuts in top of cross member for SFR's I/C brackets
12. Bent/shaped brackets as needed
13. Installed i/c from below (so that upper edge is half inch overlapping the front of the cross member, and bottom is high enough to install batwing)
14. Trimmed away bottom and sides of stock i/c bracket on driver side to make extra room for i/c connector pipe.
15. Installed i/c connector pipes, i/c pipes, and couplers (used cut-to-length turbohoses.com couplers)
16. Trimmed away under side of header panel to clear i/c connector pipes
17. reinstalled header panel / batwing, etc.
I used a dremel and carbon cut-off wheel for all the grinding (mask and goggles needed). Tim can correct anything I missed or did unnecessarily.
I didn't mean to sugar-coat the installation. In a nutsehll, this is what I did (with car on jack stands):
1. Removed the header panel
2. Removed i/c pipes and couplers
3. removed stock intercooler duct and intercooler
4. Remove lower intercooler duct (had to loosen the oil cooler and make a small cut in the plastic duct -- with more patience, could have avoided cutting it)
5. removed batwing and undid zip ties holding harness to front of cross member.
6. Secured harness under cross member using unused threaded holes under cross member (used looped clamps like the one that holds the cc cable to the top of the intake-- looks just like the factory did it)
7. Trimmed non-structural plastic tabs protruding on the inside of the bumber cover
8. Bent chassis brackets out of way (which used to hold factory duct work). Could be bent back but would be ugly -- bet even a concourse judge coulnd't see it.
9. Pulled off M6 studs on cross member (not sure I needed to pull them all)
10. Ground bumper support to make room for i/c pipes and couplers (after masking off engine compartment)
11. Installed rivnuts in top of cross member for SFR's I/C brackets
12. Bent/shaped brackets as needed
13. Installed i/c from below (so that upper edge is half inch overlapping the front of the cross member, and bottom is high enough to install batwing)
14. Trimmed away bottom and sides of stock i/c bracket on driver side to make extra room for i/c connector pipe.
15. Installed i/c connector pipes, i/c pipes, and couplers (used cut-to-length turbohoses.com couplers)
16. Trimmed away under side of header panel to clear i/c connector pipes
17. reinstalled header panel / batwing, etc.
I used a dremel and carbon cut-off wheel for all the grinding (mask and goggles needed). Tim can correct anything I missed or did unnecessarily.
09-15-2009, 01:39 AM
#38
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View showing grinding to bumper bars. Not sure if that hose is normally tucked into bumper cover, but wasn't on my car -- could be unique to body work on my car.
09-15-2009, 01:41 AM
#39
Rennlist Member
View of how I trimmed stck intercooler bracket. Slip can be reinstalled and bracket remains functional despite added clearance for the extension pipe.
09-15-2009, 02:01 AM
#40
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I just wanna get this straight since the picture of the kit on your site shows the pipes replacing everything back to the engine. 1. The pipes that are included are only the extension pipes to get the connection points back to the stock location. 2. The other pipes are not included. Are these both correct? Also, the only silicone hoses that I saw in the pics online were the connecting hoses for the metal pipes. I am assuming that you are talking about those and not replacement hoses for the stock plastic pipes that run back to the engine. TIA.
09-15-2009, 04:07 AM
#42
Drifting
My only concern, is I do not wish to have a huge aluminum item showing visibly through the front bumper. Totally throws off the looks of a 951 IMO. Tim, would it be bad if one painted their intercooler? I'd possibly be in for one, if I could intact paint it black so it isn't very visible.
09-15-2009, 04:21 AM
#43
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I have seen several people do that on Audis. I can't remember the company, but they sent them off to get a black thermal coating put on them. The coating is said to help dissipate heat. I have found others that you can simply spray on. I don't remember anyone actually doing a before and after so I don't know if there are any benefits/drawbacks. At the worst it will decrease performance slightly, but a light coat of paint shouldn't offer much resistance to heat dissipation or encourage heat absorption. Hopefully someone with first hand experience will chime in.
