In One Ear and Out The Other
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Now that I have access to a little more money (thank you AT&T for giving me 3 raises in 2 months!) I intend on doing a few little things to the car. EEEEEEVERYONE I know, and their duck wants to see what the car does with this, or that, but I've got my own plans. Nothing big, but it'll be my first round of mods and I'm looking to keep the pocketbook intact... For now at least. Plus It's gonna be pricey enough with what I have below.
This is just a mild idea to enhance the way the car feels and hopefully unlock a couple pounds on the stock setup. Bigger turbo and other modifications (head, cams etc.) will wait till next year.
I have a LR 3" exhaust on now. DME looks like it's been opened so I'm going to check for chips.
-Lindsey boost enhancer
-Synapse or TIAL WG (I do plan on shooting for 350+ HP later, on a bigger turbo, so I see it necessary to skip any stock modded units or shims)
-MAF conversion (have yet to choose a manufacturer on this)
-new bypass valve, or BOV depending on MAF
-3" DP
-The car will be chipped, or I will be taking it to Tom Charlesworth and have him dick around with it. He's got a chip burner and told me he can get me some valuable software if I want. (He's got access to all kinds of things)
-Maybe intercooler with upgraded end-tanks... maybe
Is there anything else small that I could look into? Not sure how much of a difference I'll see with all of this, but seeing how the car reacted to the 3" exhaust, it's gonna be FUUUU-UUUN! That's a MAF, WG, BOV, tune, DP, and LBE. Overkill on stock setup? Anything going to clash? I want to get the car to perform as well as it can on stock mechanicals, before I go have my fun with a 60-1 hifi or something.
My goals are better boost performance; better spool and light-response; more power, and that "bigger engine feel". Think this is a good setup?
This is just a mild idea to enhance the way the car feels and hopefully unlock a couple pounds on the stock setup. Bigger turbo and other modifications (head, cams etc.) will wait till next year.
I have a LR 3" exhaust on now. DME looks like it's been opened so I'm going to check for chips.
-Lindsey boost enhancer
-Synapse or TIAL WG (I do plan on shooting for 350+ HP later, on a bigger turbo, so I see it necessary to skip any stock modded units or shims)
-MAF conversion (have yet to choose a manufacturer on this)
-new bypass valve, or BOV depending on MAF
-3" DP
-The car will be chipped, or I will be taking it to Tom Charlesworth and have him dick around with it. He's got a chip burner and told me he can get me some valuable software if I want. (He's got access to all kinds of things)
-Maybe intercooler with upgraded end-tanks... maybe
Is there anything else small that I could look into? Not sure how much of a difference I'll see with all of this, but seeing how the car reacted to the 3" exhaust, it's gonna be FUUUU-UUUN! That's a MAF, WG, BOV, tune, DP, and LBE. Overkill on stock setup? Anything going to clash? I want to get the car to perform as well as it can on stock mechanicals, before I go have my fun with a 60-1 hifi or something.
My goals are better boost performance; better spool and light-response; more power, and that "bigger engine feel". Think this is a good setup?
#2
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Based on your plans to play, and the WG swap I would definitely go for a MBC over the LBE...
AND I could be wrong but I would wait for the IC until you go big with the turbo..
Put that money into injectors, 3 BAR FPR or adjustable..adjustable will keep you from having to change again...
I'm also not 100% sure the stock Turbo will benefit that much from a 3" DP as that is WAY bigger than the turbo outlet and any future turbo upgrade would require a new down pipe to match the outlet...
Your over all plan looks good, and does make for a fun car (I did MAF, Injectors, 3 BAR, Tune, new TPS, Bypass Valve, LR MBC, and am in the middle of a Turbo debacle...)
WG, match to turbo goal... or you might end up changing it again.. unless your current WG is causing problems I would wait for the new turbo to change the WG...
Just my 2C... have fun, enjoy the journey...
AND I could be wrong but I would wait for the IC until you go big with the turbo..
Put that money into injectors, 3 BAR FPR or adjustable..adjustable will keep you from having to change again...
I'm also not 100% sure the stock Turbo will benefit that much from a 3" DP as that is WAY bigger than the turbo outlet and any future turbo upgrade would require a new down pipe to match the outlet...
Your over all plan looks good, and does make for a fun car (I did MAF, Injectors, 3 BAR, Tune, new TPS, Bypass Valve, LR MBC, and am in the middle of a Turbo debacle...)
WG, match to turbo goal... or you might end up changing it again.. unless your current WG is causing problems I would wait for the new turbo to change the WG...
Just my 2C... have fun, enjoy the journey...
#3
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Okay good point on the LBE. I didn't even think about injectors. Gotta do those for sure. And the FPR! Forgot about that one.
I would expext high 200's after all that, at about 14 pounds or so. Maybe 300, but I don't have faith in the K26/6.
I would expext high 200's after all that, at about 14 pounds or so. Maybe 300, but I don't have faith in the K26/6.
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Wait on the injectors until you decide which MAF you want to buy. I went through this process a few months ago and ended up with a Vitesse MAF and a Tial 38mm with a .7BAR spring + Lindsey MBC. John has his MAF's tuned for specific injectors and I bought them from him with the kit. My car goes like a bat out of hell - holds 15PSI strong through 5800RPM no problem with the stock 26/6 turbo. You'll also want a wideband AFR gauge (highly recommend the Zeitronix...easy install and lots of options) - pretty much a neccesity when you start putting in all this stuff. I haven't had it on the dyno - but I'd guess in the 290HP range.
I'll eventually put in a bigger turbo, but I had enough on my plate with this install and all the other stuff that I have had to deal with since. (New ICV, new TPS, chasing down vacuum leaks, fixing ground issues, etc...)
I'll eventually put in a bigger turbo, but I had enough on my plate with this install and all the other stuff that I have had to deal with since. (New ICV, new TPS, chasing down vacuum leaks, fixing ground issues, etc...)
#6
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I disagree with john on the down pipe comment the gas is very hot and turbulent at that point and .
but they are expensive i think for what they are . I did a cheap down pipe by cutting the inside out of a standard one then putting 2" of 3" tube and a v clamp on the bottom .. so its now 2.8"
and yeh like the other guys said fuel system sonner not later ..
er as for small things ??
I 'd say a water injection kit ..
but they are expensive i think for what they are . I did a cheap down pipe by cutting the inside out of a standard one then putting 2" of 3" tube and a v clamp on the bottom .. so its now 2.8"
and yeh like the other guys said fuel system sonner not later ..
er as for small things ??
I 'd say a water injection kit ..
#7
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WATER INJECTION!!! How can I mess with spark control to advance it. That's where the real advantage of WI lies. That could unlock 10-15hp at least, no?
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#8
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ok when you get one of your rennlist buddies to do a custom chip you get a few timing options put in the FQR switch also get them to put in more advance as the air temp drops and perhaps as the water temps drops also
you them put a trim put in the air temp and water sender lone and start tricking the unit ...
but be aware you are lying to the ECU so there is limits and consequnces...
but hopfully the water injection will directly influence the air temp signal and get some timing ..
you them put a trim put in the air temp and water sender lone and start tricking the unit ...
but be aware you are lying to the ECU so there is limits and consequnces...
but hopfully the water injection will directly influence the air temp signal and get some timing ..
#9
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Is there any way to get the system to trick the computer when it starts spraying? If I use Meth/Water Injection I'm going to use a smart controller that is boost sensitive. Probably activate at 5 pounds or a little higher.
If this could be done, then I would have it bump timing when it sprays... I can talk to the guys at Snow Performance. But Devil's Own is local to us Oklahoma buyers... So I have options.
If this could be done, then I would have it bump timing when it sprays... I can talk to the guys at Snow Performance. But Devil's Own is local to us Oklahoma buyers... So I have options.
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#12
Three Wheelin'
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:EDIT:
Meaning, you increase pressures sooner on the combustion stroke. It helps to increase torque. Also, the water has been touted to help lengthen a burn. And as we all know, water expands under phase-change more than almost any other liquid. Whether or not we see the benefits of steam expansion in an internal combustion motor... I don't know.
Last edited by 944obscene; 07-30-2009 at 09:52 AM.
#14
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So I did some researching of my own and found that my BPV is probably trashed. I've been experiencing the symptoms of a bad one, but never really looked into the issue. So my first round of modifications will be altered to accomodate a Turbosmart Kompact Series valve, which seems like the choice I like most. I want the Dual Port FG-BOV-KTDP25 unit. I saw someone else on here running one and I'd be willing to drop the change for it.
Since I just picked up an old Huntley MAF, I'm gonna make my first few purchases work with that. I'll be getting chips, probably MAX Chips, and using some sort of software (unknown at this point, but I'm OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS!!!) to dial everything in. I'll look into injectors to keep things in check (maybe 50#'ers), because I think I want to aim for about 14-15psi on boost.
I'm going to run a black **** boost controller, probably from LR, and I'll be topping everything off with some alterations to the intake if I can figure out what I want to go with. Maybe just replace the stock filter? Run a custom J boot with. I'll need a Wideband and a REAL boost gauge to keep track of everything, but I don't know which one to go with. Other than that everything sounds good so far. Gotta price everything out, then stock up on everything and plan a day for install. Should be fun!
Since I just picked up an old Huntley MAF, I'm gonna make my first few purchases work with that. I'll be getting chips, probably MAX Chips, and using some sort of software (unknown at this point, but I'm OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS!!!) to dial everything in. I'll look into injectors to keep things in check (maybe 50#'ers), because I think I want to aim for about 14-15psi on boost.
I'm going to run a black **** boost controller, probably from LR, and I'll be topping everything off with some alterations to the intake if I can figure out what I want to go with. Maybe just replace the stock filter? Run a custom J boot with. I'll need a Wideband and a REAL boost gauge to keep track of everything, but I don't know which one to go with. Other than that everything sounds good so far. Gotta price everything out, then stock up on everything and plan a day for install. Should be fun!
#15
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It does with spark advance. Half the reason for running it, is that it creates a buffer, simulating a higher-octane fuel, allowing for more spark advance- thus increasing cylinder pressures sooner.
:EDIT:
Meaning, you increase pressures sooner on the combustion stroke. It helps to increase torque. Also, the water has been touted to help lengthen a burn. And as we all know, water expands under phase-change more than almost any other liquid. Whether or not we see the benefits of steam expansion in an internal combustion motor... I don't know.
:EDIT:
Meaning, you increase pressures sooner on the combustion stroke. It helps to increase torque. Also, the water has been touted to help lengthen a burn. And as we all know, water expands under phase-change more than almost any other liquid. Whether or not we see the benefits of steam expansion in an internal combustion motor... I don't know.