Yabo

1986 951. Had no spark when I bought it. one of the reference sensors was broken off (looked like someone tried to remove it and broke the black part off). and it had no DME/klr.

So I went ahead and did waterpump, timing belt, hoses, etc. On the way back together I replaced the sensors (with used sensors from someone on rennlist).

I used clarks-garage way of gapping it. Glued a .8mm washer (gapped a spark plug to .8mm and found a washer that fit) to the bottom of a spare sensor, pushed it down onto the ring gear and tightened the bracket. Then I put the good sensor in place of the one with the washer. Turned it a few times by hand to see if it would hit, it was fine.

Turned the key and no bounce of the tach, and the timing light does not flash connected directly to the wire from the coil.

I have the intake manifold off, fuel injectors off, AFM off, etc, if that matters. I even jumped the alarm module per clarks garage.

Any hints tips or advice? I'm going to try to find an oscilloscope to check the sensors better. Do you think its a sensor gap issue?

Yabo

No ideas? need more information? less information?

APKhaos

Do a search on alarm disable. The alarm system on these cars disables ignition, and can that cause some truly frustrating situations. Its a simple jumper to disable the alarm, and at elast then you know that its not causing your no spark situation.

Sysgen

Have you put the rotor back in the distributor cap Don't ask me why I ask.

My .02 cents

Yabo

The distributor cap, rotor, intake manifold, etc are not put on. I'm testing at the coil and testing for tach bouncing. no dice.

I also already have the jumpers in the alarm module as per clarks garage.

quinnfiske

Do you have voltage at the coil? You should have 12V between each of the small terminals and ground with the ignition on. One terminal goes to the ignition key and the other to the DME.

Yabo

Ignition on, both terminals of coil has 12V. By the way , can anyone tell me if this means that the alarm module is NOT the issue? I have it jumpered, just want to know that the jumpers are working correctly...

Yabo

I took the speed/ref sensors and bracket out again. I set the engine to TDC, and I do not see the screw that should pass close by the reference sensor. I can feel one just towards the engine block side of the hole, but it is not visible in the hole (it would not be directly below the ref sensor). Is this wrong? Or is the screw that triggers the ref sensor somewhere else?

Yabo

I found the screw that centers in the hole, im guessing roughly 180 deg from OT by how many turns of the ratchet I went. How far should the reference sensor be off the screw? I'm thinking maybe I should set it with the ref sensor and then put the speed sensor in after.

marky522

If you have 12v on the ground side of your coil then it's not being supplied a ground and that is where I would start my diagnosis, I am assuming the dme zsupplies a ground then takes it away to collapse the field in the coil and create a spark, no ground no field created in thecoil no spark it's that simple, I'm on myphone with no access to wiring diagrams but if you do follow theground path of the coil, an easy check would be to see if you have 12 v onthat sAme wire directly at the dme that would tell me that you either the dme isn't allowing it to ground the coil or you have a bad dme. I can check in the am.

Mark

Yabo

Marky, that makes sense but the reference sensors would be what tells the DME the frequency to pull down the 12V from the coil right? So it seems to still point to the sensors.

Yabo

Just as a follow up.. guess what it was.. After taking the ref sensors on and off about 10 times, testing all sorts of things, i decided to pull the DME apart. This is the DME I bought on ebay a few weeks ago since the car came without a DME.

THE CHIP WAS IN BACKWARDS.