Adjusting new Koni rear yellows?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Adjusting new Koni rear yellows?
First some background and then my question.
Background:
Car is a 951 cab with original front struts (checked out OK by Porsche Center) and springs, both front and rear 968 M030 sways (30mm front, 19mm rear). The rear is adjustable and set to the middle position.
I recently fitted new Koni yellow rear shocks on the car and am now taking turns in this car like never before. However, since I believe these shocks are adjustable and I would like a bit more stability in turns -it feels like they give a bit more than I would like- I'm looking to turn the hardness up a notch.
Question:
I installed these Konis myself using proper torque at both ends. However, from looking at the instructions that came with them, I can't figure out how they're adjusted?
How does the adjustment work can I do this without removing the top bolts that thread them into the chassis?
Also, would you go for the middle setting or crank them up all the way?
Thanks!
Background:
Car is a 951 cab with original front struts (checked out OK by Porsche Center) and springs, both front and rear 968 M030 sways (30mm front, 19mm rear). The rear is adjustable and set to the middle position.
I recently fitted new Koni yellow rear shocks on the car and am now taking turns in this car like never before. However, since I believe these shocks are adjustable and I would like a bit more stability in turns -it feels like they give a bit more than I would like- I'm looking to turn the hardness up a notch.
Question:
I installed these Konis myself using proper torque at both ends. However, from looking at the instructions that came with them, I can't figure out how they're adjusted?
How does the adjustment work can I do this without removing the top bolts that thread them into the chassis?
Also, would you go for the middle setting or crank them up all the way?
Thanks!
#2
Nordschleife Master
Lift car, remove lower bolt, fully compress the shock, turn the body while compressed, let it extend back to full length reattatch to swing arm. yes they can be done without completely removing them...
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How do I compress the shock? Do the plastic stoppers need to come out to do this? Thanks.
#4
Nordschleife Master
Nope
http://www.koni-na.com/adjustment.cfm
"Adjustment Procedure 76, 80, 82, 86, 87, 88, 90, 8040, 8240 Series
Rebound Adjustment Procedures
Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle and hold it vertically with the lower eye or pin attached in a vise. Use clamp plates to prevent damage.
Fully collapse the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (counterclockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjustment nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly.
Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and it must be removed prior to adjusting.
The damper may have already been adjusted. Therefore check whether the shock absorber is in the adjustment position or not by keeping it collapsed and gently turning it further to the left counting at the same time the half turns until a stop is felt. Stop turning then and do not use force.
Keeping the shock absorber collapsed, make 1 half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise). In case of prior adjustment add the number of half the turns previously found. The total range is about 5 half turns.
Pull the shock absorber out vertically without turning for at least 1 cm to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.
ADJUSTING DIRECTION
* Clockwise = Firmer
* Counter Clockwise = Softer"
that is the koni stated procedure for these: http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...8040-1035s.htm
the rear yellow 8040 shocks... have the plastic disk, but not the bump rubber, I didn't remove anything from mine when I adjusted them. to compress the shock just push on it..it will compress...
http://www.koni-na.com/adjustment.cfm
"Adjustment Procedure 76, 80, 82, 86, 87, 88, 90, 8040, 8240 Series
Rebound Adjustment Procedures
Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle and hold it vertically with the lower eye or pin attached in a vise. Use clamp plates to prevent damage.
Fully collapse the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (counterclockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjustment nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly.
Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and it must be removed prior to adjusting.
The damper may have already been adjusted. Therefore check whether the shock absorber is in the adjustment position or not by keeping it collapsed and gently turning it further to the left counting at the same time the half turns until a stop is felt. Stop turning then and do not use force.
Keeping the shock absorber collapsed, make 1 half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise). In case of prior adjustment add the number of half the turns previously found. The total range is about 5 half turns.
Pull the shock absorber out vertically without turning for at least 1 cm to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.
ADJUSTING DIRECTION
* Clockwise = Firmer
* Counter Clockwise = Softer"
that is the koni stated procedure for these: http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...8040-1035s.htm
the rear yellow 8040 shocks... have the plastic disk, but not the bump rubber, I didn't remove anything from mine when I adjusted them. to compress the shock just push on it..it will compress...
#6
Odd Posts
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Luis
I pulled mine off the the car when I did mine... It was just easier to make sure they had the same rebound doing them on the workbench... It's how I found out one was shot Now I have Bilstein HDs....
I pulled mine off the the car when I did mine... It was just easier to make sure they had the same rebound doing them on the workbench... It's how I found out one was shot Now I have Bilstein HDs....
#7
Pulling them of is much better if you have never adjusted them before. that way you can get a better feel for the adjusters and you can time them to make sure they both rebound the same. mine were different,and if i was laying on the ground under the care it would have been a pain in the *** to adjust. it's just 2 more bolts and makes the job easy-er.