porsche recommens a special graphit grease to be put on the bolts in order to avoid any corrosion or sticking...

ask your dealer and you will never have such problems again - except you losse the nuts in the wrong direction

 

awe, you busted your lug nuts

 

So do I....almost daily. My wife doesn't mind it so much. She helps and we consider it foreplay.

 

I used the Tony G.'s advice. Once again, thank you!

 

I would never EVER use antiseeze on lugnuts and I see no reason to ever need it. In between the time it takes to swap tires, brakes, or anything that requires a wheel to be removed, your lugs should not seeze tight to the point they break coming off. I can see maybe some low strength loctite but even then it shouldn't be needed unless using very cheap aftermarket wheels that don't fit the taper of the lugs correctly.

 

951 Fuchs are hardly cheap or aftermarket yet they seized enough that we had to drill the lug. I've never had a problem again and the torque values remain the same. However, I will look into the Porsche alternative in the near future.

 

And I would never EVER use aluminum lug nuts on a track car....its just a matter of time before they seize...

 

They aren't legal anywhere anyway.

I think primarily because the degree of thread engagement cannot be seen since the aluminum nuts are closed ended.


TonyG

 

Well that too. For a track car that's a different story, the heat can make those seize.

 

I have a 6 point 19mm deep socket I always use. It applies torque to the flat surfaces of the lug nuts all along the length. The short sockets with 12 points conscentrate stresses in a small area of the nut and can damage it.

I have always used anti-seize on wheel studs. I put a light coat on once, not every time the wheel comes off. I have been doing it for 25 years, never had a problem maintaining wheel nut torque. Torque specs assume lightly lubricated threads, and this does the trick.