Dyno failure....
07-13-2009, 03:34 AM
#18
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What valve stems would be recomended? I rarely rarely go above 120mph but, when I do I'd like to know im safe. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
07-13-2009, 09:06 AM
#20
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Yep, go with the metal bolted in versions – the shorter the better!
The 930 had stock type rubber ones, kind of odd because he had Fiske wheels…at close to $1k each you would think they would have good valve stems.
Yes, there was much relief once we figured out what happened. Even more relief when we fixed the valve stem – it was 4:45 on a Friday when it happened – and the customer had driven 3 hours in the 930 to do some testing…We were able to break the bead, remove what was left of the old stem and replace it with a stem that just happened to be around the shop – all without a tire machine. BTW – this was 18” wheels with 35 series rubber.
The 930 had stock type rubber ones, kind of odd because he had Fiske wheels…at close to $1k each you would think they would have good valve stems.
Yes, there was much relief once we figured out what happened. Even more relief when we fixed the valve stem – it was 4:45 on a Friday when it happened – and the customer had driven 3 hours in the 930 to do some testing…We were able to break the bead, remove what was left of the old stem and replace it with a stem that just happened to be around the shop – all without a tire machine. BTW – this was 18” wheels with 35 series rubber.
07-13-2009, 09:18 AM
#21
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Funny, the tyre guys that I use recommend ditching the metal ones and using rubber??
07-13-2009, 10:44 AM
#23
Drifting
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but surely the rubber ones are just rubber coated and have a solid flange inside ??..
Its not that simple see as as the G's on it increase its not the clear if strenth of mass it the cause the drama .. ..
an 18" wheel would have the valve stem spinng a 8 " radius mmm how many G is that ??
I would prefer radal mount ones to ones at 45 degrees.. that way they are pushed back in to the rim ..
Its not that simple see as as the G's on it increase its not the clear if strenth of mass it the cause the drama .. ..
an 18" wheel would have the valve stem spinng a 8 " radius mmm how many G is that ??
I would prefer radal mount ones to ones at 45 degrees.. that way they are pushed back in to the rim ..
07-13-2009, 03:53 PM
#25
Nordschleife Master
I have these bolt-ins from Summit. You need to insert a valve extension to check pressure as they sit low. Difficult to tell from the picture due to the reflection from the highly polished Fuchs rims, but they are less than 1/4in high.
07-14-2009, 05:19 AM
#27
Drifting
Until this thread, I was mad that I paid over $15 some dollars a valve stem for the long metal ones required for the 993 Hollows. Now, I'm very glad that they require them.
As some may not know, the 993 hollows require the metal stems as the bead of the wheel is hollow down into the spokes. Where the valve stem goes through is obviously hollow Nd therefor there has to be two little o-ring seals (one on outside and inside of rim). Then a little nut clamps it all together so it's air tight. Nifty set up but was a PITA to find (didn't want to have to go to the stealership in KC, but had to anyways). With tax, 4 stems cost me $73 some bucks! Money well spent though, obviously.
As some may not know, the 993 hollows require the metal stems as the bead of the wheel is hollow down into the spokes. Where the valve stem goes through is obviously hollow Nd therefor there has to be two little o-ring seals (one on outside and inside of rim). Then a little nut clamps it all together so it's air tight. Nifty set up but was a PITA to find (didn't want to have to go to the stealership in KC, but had to anyways). With tax, 4 stems cost me $73 some bucks! Money well spent though, obviously.
07-14-2009, 05:26 AM
#28
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That must be some task doing pressures and not scratching those nice rims!
07-14-2009, 06:00 AM
#29
Nordschleife Master
