No start condition, but have both spark and fuel. HELP please...
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
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Ok. Have measured the harness with the ignition inthe ON position.
on each plug I get 12V on one connection and 6V on the other. Is this the problem? Why do I get 6V on one connection?
on each plug I get 12V on one connection and 6V on the other. Is this the problem? Why do I get 6V on one connection?
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#17
Racer
Thread Starter
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Ok.
As investigated in another thread, the reading in the fuel injection harness might not be wrong after all.
I have tested the harness with a Noid light and it turns out to be working eventhoug it has the 6V reading.
The Fuel injection harness thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...2v-signal.html
I have also tested the fuel pressure, and it is at 3bar when crancking and same when I hotwire the DME relay. The FPR is a 3bar unit.
Still no start....
As investigated in another thread, the reading in the fuel injection harness might not be wrong after all.
I have tested the harness with a Noid light and it turns out to be working eventhoug it has the 6V reading.
The Fuel injection harness thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...2v-signal.html
I have also tested the fuel pressure, and it is at 3bar when crancking and same when I hotwire the DME relay. The FPR is a 3bar unit.
Still no start....
#18
Burning Brakes
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what happened ? did you run the car off a cliff ?
As everything else seems to check out ok yet you are getting too much fuel /possible flooding I would suggest you remove and clean your injectors.
As a temporary measure you could use a PP3 9v torch battery with leads and trigger the injectors to get the solenoids actuating smoothly .
Remove the connectors and flash the injector terminals with 9 volts . Don't leave the wires on the terminals but stroke them over the injector connectors repeatedly say 10-15 times. It might loosen up the injector soleniods if stale fuel has laquered them up internally.
Let us know how you got on
As everything else seems to check out ok yet you are getting too much fuel /possible flooding I would suggest you remove and clean your injectors.
As a temporary measure you could use a PP3 9v torch battery with leads and trigger the injectors to get the solenoids actuating smoothly .
Remove the connectors and flash the injector terminals with 9 volts . Don't leave the wires on the terminals but stroke them over the injector connectors repeatedly say 10-15 times. It might loosen up the injector soleniods if stale fuel has laquered them up internally.
Let us know how you got on
#20
That Guy
Rennlist Member
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Had the same problem. Check the wiring harness going into the DME Water Temp Sensor (located toward the front of the block). If it is shorted it will prevent the engine from starting due to thinking it is over heated.
#21
Nordschleife Master
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If you have a way to monitor the MAF (mafterburner) output to DME voltage, make sure it isn't above 1VDC without the car running... this will flood out the cylinders... could be caused by a bad MAF sensor, or mad mafterburner... I'm with the suggestion to remove the mafterburner and try again!
My MAF harness died, it was giving output of 4.8VDC with the engine not running... car wouldn't stay running... was flooding out on startup (DME thought it was getting WAY more air than it really was..)
My MAF harness died, it was giving output of 4.8VDC with the engine not running... car wouldn't stay running... was flooding out on startup (DME thought it was getting WAY more air than it really was..)
#22
Instructor
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
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I had the same problem, did the same test as you did and come to find out it was a simple grounding issue. Try this hook up a battery charger and try to start. If that doesn't work try ground the block directly to the battery with a new cable. Sounds stoneage I know but it worked for me. The grounds in these cars are over 20 yes old and seem to stray. Good luck