danny951

I've got a whooshing / clunking sound in the rear that I can hear at low speeds. it gets slower the slower I am rolling along. At high speeds I can't really hear it because of the exhaust and wind noise, but I think it is there then too. CV joints right?

So I am thinking of just replacing the half axles since they come with the CV joints ready to bolt on and the price difference is like $10 per side. Is this what everyone else does?

Jusii

Last time I just cleaned the joints from old grease, put new grease in and rotated axels 180 degrees. They've been fine for the last 30 000 kilometers.

Luis de Prat

Rotating really works.

I've rebuilt axles before and it's a very messy job. If you must replace them, then it's definitely worth considering buying them ready to install.

That said, not all CV joints are the same. GKN makes different qualities and those from Porsche are a higher grade. Make sure you know what quality you're getting. Especially for a 951.

Airflite40

make sure your bolts are torqued, especially on the pass side.

User 41221

And use new bolts. They are designed for a single stretch, and repeated torquing puts them beyond their tolerance level. Yes, people (myself included) have reused them without problem and in a pinch, I would still do so, but its pretty cheap insurance to put the new bolts in ala FSM spec.

porshhhh951

I did the same thing several years ago when I blew out my cv's. Just buy a new axle and new bolts.

Bri Bro

1+. I buy new axles and bolts.

wrossing

Mine were making a clicking sound under acceleration. I took them apart and cleaned them, not much wear so I just slapped some new boots on with fresh CV grease and flipped them 180 degrees and they have been perfectly quiet since. It is a big mess cleaning them though, get a gallon of fast orange! Overall a pretty easy job though and could save you a few hundred bucks if the grease just old.

George D

It's what I've done. Many like to just get dirty. Always replace with new bolts. Mark the bolts with white out after TQing to spec. They may back out, and it's easier to inspect. Seeing a white line brokes, is easier than putting a TQ wrench on all those little allen bolts.

I've had the entire right side back out to failure. Admitting that I've not checked the TQ specs, but if I could simply see a broken white line, I would have been notified of what was happening. I now have an easy guide with a bottle of white out.

G

Luis de Prat

The white out is a great tip, thanks!

Just make sure to use the stock triple square or "cheesehead" bolts, because they're a lot less likely to round out than allen bolts!

danny951

yeah.. i need to get a tq wrench. what is the spec for the bolts?

update: clarks says 30 ft/lbs or 42Nm

notthd

+2 on the rotating- it really worked well on my previous 951 for 30K or so. I also second using new bolts they are cheap. I have snapped off axle bolts under hard shifting/acceleration. I did have one down side after the rotate and many more miles- a total launch explosion of the pass axle. May have been a combo of reusing old bolts, them snapping first then the joint destruction. Was quite a scary sound- BAMMBAMM revvvvvvvv. Oh @#$. you get the idea.

Cheers, Mike

danny951

I'm curious about quality you're talking about. Pelican, Paragon, Zim's, all sell the GKN Loebro axles only from what I could tell.

danny951

Also, what is a good torgue wrench range to go with? I'm looking at a 25-250 1/2 wrench on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-16250...ef=pd_sim_hi_2

Luis de Prat

GKN Löbro come in different grades. I suppose the ones sold by the suppliers you mention will fit the bill. Just make sure they're identical to the stock ones on your car.

As for a torque wrench, as long as it's a decent quality brand you should be fine.