Idles fine but no power...and backfires.
08-10-2009, 07:27 PM
#17
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Location: Easley, SC / '86 951 / '02 A4 Quattro Sport
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**update**
Well it's been awhile but we've begun attacking the issue. So far the fuel pressure has been tested and seemed within spec 30psi at idle and the AFM has been replaced. The issue still remains however and running out of ideas. I suppose the fpr could still be bad and just not running up the psi as throttle is increased. That has not been tested but will be. Any other ideas just in case. Thanks!
-Pat
Well it's been awhile but we've begun attacking the issue. So far the fuel pressure has been tested and seemed within spec 30psi at idle and the AFM has been replaced. The issue still remains however and running out of ideas. I suppose the fpr could still be bad and just not running up the psi as throttle is increased. That has not been tested but will be. Any other ideas just in case. Thanks!
-Pat
08-10-2009, 07:34 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
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I've seen the coupler fromthe throttle body to intercooler tube crack on the bottom side wher it was hard to find/only opened when revved. squeeze on it pretty hard to check it out.
08-10-2009, 08:40 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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Have you run the car at night to see if you have sparking from wires to a ground?
Have you changed or taken the spark plugs out to check them?
Have you tested the TPS per the manual?
Will the car achieve higher rpms in a lower gear without getting into any boost. Just lightly use the throttle?
Have you unplugged the O2 sensor and driven it? On partial throttle a bad O2 sensor will mess up your mixture.
Have you changed or taken the spark plugs out to check them?
Have you tested the TPS per the manual?
Will the car achieve higher rpms in a lower gear without getting into any boost. Just lightly use the throttle?
Have you unplugged the O2 sensor and driven it? On partial throttle a bad O2 sensor will mess up your mixture.
08-10-2009, 09:48 PM
#21
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The offer is still open, if you need help. PM me, and I can try to meet up with you some time.
You need to boost leak test the car, pressurise the intake and I will bet you have a broken IC pipe or large vacume leak.
You need to boost leak test the car, pressurise the intake and I will bet you have a broken IC pipe or large vacume leak.
08-10-2009, 10:35 PM
#22
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I may be taking you up on that soon. You're about an hour from me. If I don't get it this week I'll let you know. I'm in Raleigh on business until Wed. and the shop is cuurently looking at it. Let me know when you might be able to help. Much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
08-11-2009, 12:55 AM
#23
Nordschleife Master
IF it should turn out that your venturi needs a new O ring PM me, I have an extra that came with my throttle body rebuild kit, I am doing a veturi delete at the same time so don't need the venturi o ring...
08-11-2009, 01:28 AM
#24
That Guy
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i suspect TPS failure. You can hook up a voltage meter to (ohm meter actually), and see the resistance on the prongs. If you have dead spots there will be no reading. Dead spots = failed TPS.
03-16-2010, 09:38 PM
#25
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**Update** Well, the car had been in storage at my local shop since August and I told them to take their time with it as it's winter and I wouldn't be driving the car much any way. Long story short, I had to bring my Audi in for an oil change a month ago. As soon as I walked in the owner says " I'm gonna pull your car out and get it fixed ASAP. So I pick up my Audi the next day and the Porsche is in one of the bays which is a good sign. He calls me 2 days later and tells me he has good news....SWEET!!! It ended up being the distributor rotor screw which had worked its way out and the rotor had come loose. A little locktite and tighten it back down and BAM the car starts right up and runs fine. I guess the moral of the story...it's always something stupid that causes you problems! Thanks everyone who chimed in with suggestions!!!
