notthd

Hey all, So I am starting to tinker with my 951, if things do not turn around soon I will have to sell her So I wanted to fix a couple blemishes. The only flaw in the whole interior is the dash cracks. Its black of course. I came across the following procedure... thoughts?

What have you guys done to fix this? I have an additional dash in a parts 968 but it has some crasks and is grey..... thought I'd ask. Cheers, Mike

here is what I found- http://www.9xauto.com/plastidip.htm


924-944 Dashboard Re-facing Solution
For cars with heavily cracked dash boards, where plastic Dash-Cover is not a desired option.
NOT FOR CARS WITH AIR BAGS

The issue of 924-944 cracked dashboard has hunted many of us for years. The dashboard on many 944’s has disintegrated beyond any repair. It resembles a cracked egg shell on the boiled egg. Out of frustration, 9xauto have decided to find an inexpensive solution to the dashboard re facing problem. The solution was found by completely removing the vinyl layer and replacing it with Plasti-Dip. Plasti-Dip is a fast drying acrylic based vinyl. It is heat resistant, playable, and very strong after drying. It comes in the liquid form, and suitable for the hand application. The material forms a durable as well as sand-able rubber layer. It is a perfect choice for the dashboard re facing.

924-944 dashboards were made out of poly urethane foam, pressure molded in to the metal frame. Textured vinyl is vacuum shrink-wrapped as a final finish.

The goal is to replace this textured vinyl with another material which will bond to the poly urethane foam base without removing the dash board out off the car.

To reface the dash board;
1. You need to remove an original vinyl
2. Paint the dash board 5 times with Plasti-Dip
3. Sand it all down to the semi-smooth finish.
5. Paint the dash board with black acrylic-based vinyl paint.

The dashboard re facing using Plasti-Dip, demonstrated an unprecedented improvement over the original "Cracked" surface. Not OEM finished, yet it does not hang sloppy or warps on the heat like a plastic dashcover. Your result will depend up on your paint handling skills and patience.

We offer these 3 black color (14 oz cans) plus a detailed instructions with key points on how to commence.


3 (14 oz.) bottles of Plasti-Dip with instructions (Add to Cart) $38.95


WARNING: Plasti-Dip is an acrylic based material. It is flammable. Take every precaution to stay away from the fire sparks, or a static electricity.
INSTRUCTIONS

The Goal is to replace an existing damaged vinyl, with similar material
The original dashboard was made from polyurethane foam molded around the metal frame. Then, the dashboard was shrink wrapped with textured vinyl. Our project consists of replacing the cracked vinyl without removing the dashboard from the vehicle.
To start, remove all plastic trim from the dashboard. It is everything that is mounted on it, including the steering wheel. Do not be lazy. Do not mask trim with a tape. It will not peel away if covered by PlasteDip.
After the plastic is removed, the job is to peal the existing vinyl. Start pealing the old vinyl from the bottom of the dashboard moving upward, taking one strip at the time.
It is very important not to damage in any way, the yellow base foam under the vinyl. The later applied material will not fill every bump or a hole created as a result of inaccurate vinyl removal.

PLEASE REMEMBER: you cannot remove the old vinyl from under the windshield. It is fused and folded in this area. Pulling it away with needle nose pliers will result in the cracked windshield at its base.

To effectively deal with this problem, the vinyl must be cut before it is completely removed. It is also must be cut around the side pillars as well. For better control the cutting can be done by a DREMILL
If foam is damaged under the vinyl, it must be patched and repaired by the epoxy based flexible filler. No silicon-based rubbers should be used, since the material we are applying will react with silicone by deforming and separating it. The applied layer of our material will amplify any inaccuracy of the surface.

Material characteristics:
There are two types of Plasti-Dip consistency available. One is a 16oz can with a consistency of a sour cream. Another, is a spray type where Plasti-Dip is highly diluted. We have chosen to work with thick undiluted PLD.

After the vinyl is removed you are ready to apply the firs layer of PLD. Use 5” furry roller with a long handle. Pour PLD right from the 16 oz. container to the top of the dashboard. Quickly spread material evenly with a roller covering the entire dashboard. Let it dry for an hour. Apply PDL material 5 times. Let it all dry for a day or two. Now you are ready to send. Send your dashboard with metal-grade sandpaper 400 fine. Make sure you leave no bumps. If desired, you can repaint and sand your dashboard, as many times as you like until you reach desired results. All you need to do now is to paint your dashboard with desired vinyl spray paint available in every automotive store. Enjoy your new dashboard.

quinnfiske

Looks like a really good idea. That looks like the stuff that they use to coat the handles of pliers and stuff like that. I wonder how close you could come to the factory texture? Maybe the comapny could be persuded to produce this stuff in the correct matt black finish.

Rip It

Better to replace the dash, probably less effort involved (2 days max) and original.

ehall

+1 or send the dash to Rob Budd or Champagne, for a refurbish. The few pics that I have seen of that posted method looked crappy, at best.

ehall

BTW 9xauto is a bunch of scumbags.

Burma Shave

No way in hell that will look good. 9xauto is another name for Auto Atlanta, that should tell you all you need to know.

theedge

That would look horrible.... And be hard to do with the dashboard in the car anyway.

manticore33

I vote 928 Leather. The leather work is absolutely beautiful! I plan on having the dash and several other panels wrapped when I get to that point in my restoration.

CPR

And the part about "remove the existing vinyl" is lunacy. You would remove half the foam underlayment in the process.

Use the guys E-Hall recommended.

fbgh2o

After reading the write-up, I am left with the distinct impression that you will feel disappointed with the finish and look. It seems fraught with risk and complexity. I would want to see a finished version first.

CPR

Fergus,

You know my take.

Smarter not harder....and that seems pretty hard for the average guy to do.

fbgh2o

CPR

I just think it will look fugly when done... With no margin for error.

MPD47

+1


(Please excuse the missing vent in the dash).

CurtP

+Eleventybillion.

ELLSSUU

Another relatively cheap alternative seen on the 928 boards:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-to-fix-6.html