Duke

Gear based boost is already available through Link. Prefer to do it through the EMS instead of an external controller. Then you can do boost mapped over TPS and reduce boost if the engine is cold or too hot or stuff like that

Chris White

Or if you are clever you can do both! The eboost2 will accept several inputs so you can include an interface with an EMS (Haltech or Electromotive will work fine).
I have been running EMS controlled boost for a while with things like gear based boost, temp based boost reduction and even coolant pressue based boost control - but the thought of 6 stage sequential boost control has me interested.

Duke

I'm sure even those who aren't clever can manage to do both but I can't really see why anyone except drag racers would want 6 different boost settings.

Chris White

Lets see if I can come up with six boost settings I would use regularly – lets say that 15psi is “normal”
1) Warm up lap – low boost - 10psi
2) Rain (in a pinch it could be the same as low boost mode) – 8psi
3) ‘Loaner mode’ – its fairly common for us instructor types to let other instructors dive our cars – 13psi
4) Regular track mode – 15 psi
5) Fast laps mode – 18 psi
6) One lap qualifying mode – 20 psi
7) Damn Cup Car is in the way mode – 22psi
8) Back off signal from ECU (high temp, low oil pressure or whatever else is programmed) – no boost
9) Old worn tire mode – 12 psi
10) And for Duke – snow mode and Rally mode (I have driven the Glen in snow squalls before!)
Or you could have it set in 2 psi increments from 10 psi to 20 psi.

Right now I use the standard MBC black **** – I like to change the boost as needed, my ECU is tuned for all boost pressures and is spot on until you reach 100% duty cycle. In reality each track day is different and the right balance of power to traction, air temp and tire life changes all the time – so why be stuck at one boost pressure? Maybe you don’t really need six, but the other boost controllers only give 2…2 is not enough.

Duke

Haha I see what you mean
But I still think it's a better solution to use TPS controlled boost and let the driver's right foot control the power.
With Link however I can do it both ways since it's possible to configure 11 boost tables and wire to an external adjuster **** if needed

333pg333

Lol 11, for when ten just isn't loud enough!

Duke

333pg333

Actually I like the idea Chris suggests about having two buttons on the wheel to alter boost. Perhaps in the
"Push-to-pass" vein. Poor man's KERS.

Say you're on the track with a normal 16psi and you come up behind someone with better cornering/braking, could you just flick the button, hit 24psi with different timing maps, and just take off past him on the straight? How would the motor react to doing this change at WOT?

NZ951

I just brought a new Toyota 7A block, so will make the motor a 1.75 when I go down the turbo route Good times.

NZ951

Pictures say it all... 175WHP (more to come), fairly extensive shopping cart.


Before...





After...

NZ951

Engine:

Custom header (SS 304 in 1.5" diameter primaries and 660mm long, to a full 2.5" SS 304 exhaust, DEI header wrap
Custom Aluminium intake with CNC backing plate with built in 45mm velocity stacks.
3SGTE injectors
Coil On Plug ignition
Sliver top block (I grenaded a Black Top one) with balanced crank, ARP Bolts throughout, ACL bearings, Tomei rods, custom CP pistons, 15:1 CR.
288 degree 10mm lift Kelford Cams
Supertech 1mm OS valves, Supertech Valve Springs
Excedy Lightweight Flywheel
Setrab oil cooler and TRD oil filter with HKS adapter off the block
Moroso catch can (shortened to meet regs) with K&N filter
Half size radiator with alloy shrouding and electric fan
K&N 3" cone filter
ARP alloy heat shield
TRD oil cap
TRD 0.8mm headgasket

Rest of drive train

T50 Gearbox
TRD Short shift
TRD 2 way LSD
Redline oils throughout
Braided clutch line

Wheels and brakes

15X8 +10 offset rims with Toyo R88 205/50 rubber
Wilwood Dynalight 4 pot brakes
Wilwood brake pads
Wilwood slotted and drilled rotors
SS brake lines
Nissan R33 brake booster
Momo pedals
Cusco brake booster stopper

Body

Fibreglass Front bumper, Bonnet, Front guards, Side Skirts, Rear hatch and Rear bumper
Lexan MR10 rear hatch and side window glassing
Racetech canvas toe hooks
Seam welded
Aerocatch bonnet pins
New rear updated tail lights
Plastic bolts used where possible

Interior

Flocked dash and door cards
Digital Dash conversion
Sabelt seats
Bride seat rail (passenger) and custom alloy for driver
Takata 6 point seat belts
Innovate oil pressure and engine temp gauges
Fuel pressure, oil pressure and water temp warning lights
Momo steering wheel and Momo quick release hub kit
T3 handbrake button
USI cage padding
Bride floor mats
TRD gear ****
TRD push start button

ECU and fueling

Vipec V44 custom looms (everything unnecessary removed)
RCI fuel cell with level sender
Custom surge tank and Bosch 910 pump
Mr Gasket lift pump

Suspension

TRD shocks (short stroke)
TRD springs (8kg front 6kg rear)
Whiteline sway bars front and rear
Tein camber plates
T3 adjustable panhard rod
T3 4 link adjustable rods
T3 castor rods
T3 Lower control arms
T3 manual rack nolethane bushes

175WHP running aviation fuel. Road registered

Thats all I can think of off the top of my head!

ritzblitz

JESUS H. CHRIST THAT IS AWESOME! I assume you did all of the work yourself (assembly+fabrication included?)

Great job, an amazing effort. Once I get a personal TIG machine I can start with my car. Currently I have to fabricate on a FSAE car instead... but no issue there, haha.

Id love to take that pure bred animal out if I ever got to NZ. Too many of these cars are drifted out anymore. And now, I can barely stand the AE86 platform, because of the crappy evolution the vast majority of the "scene" has taken. Thankfully you fit into the small sliver of AE86 pie left over, and that's the tastiest sliver of them all, if you get my drift.

Props.

NZ951

Cheers mate, I did most of it myself, but not the engine building and some of the wiring... some things are just better left for the pros!

Yeah I know what you mean about the drift scene, most of the guys I know that circuit race use these or Starlets, the drift scene is mostly Nissans here, so thats ok. Im pretty keen to try bigger cams and E85 and with some velocity stack length tuning get 200WHP out of this 1.6L unit It revs to 9,000rpm now, I think I will need to go to 10,000 to get 200WHP, should be achievable.

Black51

That engine bay looks lonely compared to a 951's lol.

EDIT: My goodness, that speedo looks like that of an F1 car! or a space ship!

ritzblitz

Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes.

You are speaking my language. I bet 90% of AE86 owners don't know what N2 is without looking it up. Like I said, you're speaking my language. I love that your engine revs to 9000 RPM. Sure it only makes 175WHP, that's not **** on paper. But it's all about "balance" and how well the car works as a whole dynamic unit. Far too few AE86 owners understand these fundamental concepts of the Toyota Corolla, and I'm turned off to the "USDM" AE86 "crew". This used to be one of my absolute favorite cars, as you can tell. And if they all treated their car like you do, I'd be lining up to get one, but now, group it into the S13 platform.

p.s.
Yeah, I give them a bad rap, they deserve it now. Zip tied bumpers and spray paint? WTF? Come on, treat the car with some damn respect for once. You don't spray paint your pet dog and cut his hair all funny... do you?

Anyway, that's the end of my rant.

Thanks for posting the end product, I'm amazed, and it's one of the nicest AE86 builds I've seen.