LFA951

I have a stock wastegate and it holds up to 15 psi in third gear according to my boost gauge. I was thinking about getting shims or a new or stronger spring, my mechanic says not to bother with spending $400 on a new Tial or LR. What's the next step after stock, shims, spring? If so where from?

Lorax

I would just get the tial. It IS worth it.

It's something you will need if you ever start modding the car now, so why waste money on crappy shims etc...

Do it once, do it right.

Did I do a good job of not answering the question?

LFA951

I already have a 3 bar FPR, 3" exhaust with Borla muffler, APE MAF and boost ****, but he says that since I have a small leak by the rear main seal and the oil pan, and it's never been overhauled, that it would just stress the motor out even more and cause more leaks and more complications with the boost coming in quicker and holding the boost to redline...so I was thinking about what I could do with the stock WG I have on it now, since the next thing on my list is to rebuild the ball joints with the RENNBAY kit first...

eyeball kid

I know relatively little about 951 ownership as I've owned mine for only three months now. The WG in the car when I bought it was definitely tired--car just wouldn't boost above 13. I installed the LR club sport with the second port blocked should I want to install a BC. The change was dramatic and noticeable.

hp18racer

Personally, I like the stock waste gate, cycling valve delete, set boost level with a $10.00 adjustable check valve.

LFA951

I deleted the cycling valve and ISV

Lorax

???

These motors can handle a bit of boost. 300whp isn't going to make your RMS or oilpan gasket explode

If you don't mind spending the money, just get it. don't worry about it causing more stress.

Keithr726

The stock wastegate is a POS. I took mine off and started applying pressure to it and it leaked way too early which means loosing boost and spool up. Before adding hp mods you should at least do maintenance which in my opinion involves replacing the old worn out wastegate.

Synapse is the newest technology because it doesn't use a have any destructible parts and has built-in boost control. Find out more at speedforceracing.com

LFA951

So you recommend Synapse over Tial?

hp18racer

Applied pressure on the exhaust side or on the control line side? With an EBC or a simple spring check valve the control side doesn't see pressure to open the gate until the pressure is near the level to open.

You can figure out if the exhaust side holds boost by disconnecting the contol side and seeing how it spools.

Not necessarily a POS.

Tms951

I had the LR one and really liked it, it fit great. I replaced it because I had trouble holding 23psi, now I have a Tial with headers and modded pieces from SFR it fits like crap and I am basicly waiting for it to fall off.

VOoDOoGTX

why wouldnt you replace the gaskets? i feel like those are the easiest ones to replace.

Techno Duck

Personally with the options you listed, i would go with the Tial if you decide to swap the wastegate (Which i think is a worthwhile investment). I have no experience with the Synapse, so i cant comment on that at all. The Tial brand new with adapter plates is still well under $350, which is less than the LR wastegates and requires no core charge. My experience with the Tial has been great so far.

The fitment with the adapter plates is not the best, but in my opinion more than adequete. In an effort to be as unbiased as possible, these are the things i would nit pick about it.

-The adapter plates i have were bought 2nd hand (unused) and originally from SFR. They do have a layer of surface rust. Not a huge deal, but i would have hoped for stainless adapters. Not a big deal really, its just a little unsightly when your under the car...which will have a different frequency for everyone. There are other makers of the adapters which do offer them in stainless.

-There is no way to use the original mounting bracket to support the wastegate too the car. This is because obviously the Tial has no provision for this. In my opinion, not a big deal because you can still retain the original mount that goes around the torque tube and connects to the flange on the dump tube with a catch (which is noted below)

-The dump tube has a flange on it which attaches to a bracket that is mounted on the torque tube. I was only able to use this bracket after some modification to it (cutting part of it off) to support the wastegate dump tube. This in my opinion is enough support for the wastegate, so its not just free floating inbetween the crossover and dump tube connection. HOWEVER, i was only able to use this mounting method with my dump to atmosphere dump tube (does not tie back into midpipe). I cannot get everything to line up with the dump tube tied back into the exhaust. It may be possible because its pretty close, but i have not tried hard enough to make it work. So when i do have my wastegate tied back in, i simply leave it 'free floating'. This sounds alot worse than it does, its pretty secure i think. However i will say the next time i tie my wastegate back in, i will be making a strong effort to get that bracket to work.

tman

I have the LR dualport, holds 29 psi over 400 whp. Bolts right in, no adapters

jasonlp

+1 synapse

my 2007 lindsey DP failed and boosted uncontrollably in 2008 went synapse never looked back, yet.......