Can someone please help me with these new wheels....???
#16
Race Director
Why? Because it's the "easy way". Lots of people have done it. And a few have also experienced what happens when one breaks and they wipe out the car when they loose control because the wheel is no longer attached to the car.
This is the exact reason why they will not pass tech inspection on any vehicle that is run on the track. You should make sure to check the rules of the club you run with to see how they view wheel adapters :-)
Plus... they are very heavy, which adds unnecessarily to the unsprung weight of the vehicle, which affects handling and acceleration..
TonyG
This is the exact reason why they will not pass tech inspection on any vehicle that is run on the track. You should make sure to check the rules of the club you run with to see how they view wheel adapters :-)
Plus... they are very heavy, which adds unnecessarily to the unsprung weight of the vehicle, which affects handling and acceleration..
TonyG
I know its not "optimal", and I do plan on swapping at the very least my front axle to late offset this year. BMW guys use slip on spacers with longer studs or bolts until a certain limit, like 18-20mm, after that they go to bolt-on. Isnt there a limit to a slip on spacer with longer studs? (I run 25mm all the way around, hubcentric, T-7075 aluminum)
Just curious as my car has passed tech with both NASA and multiple PCA groups without anyone saying a word.
#17
Nordschleife Master
Fergus has pointed out that PET indicates that the offset of the '86 951's are 23.3mm front and back. And since I don't have stock '86 951 wheels in front of me to measure, I am going with the PET dimensions.
Therefore, and assuming that Fergus is correct, this is the "revised" reply:
The 1986 944 turbo stock wheel offset are as follows:
Stock Wheel / New Wheel / Difference
Front Wheel 23.3mm / 52mm / 28.7mm
Rear Wheel 23.3mm / 58mm / 34.7mm
Therefore, and assuming that Fergus is correct, this is the "revised" reply:
The 1986 944 turbo stock wheel offset are as follows:
Stock Wheel / New Wheel / Difference
Front Wheel 23.3mm / 52mm / 28.7mm
Rear Wheel 23.3mm / 58mm / 34.7mm
And I thought I had this figured out ...it's a learning experience I suppose.
You might find this useful, just enter you old and new sizes and it does the calcs... Wheel Offset Calculator
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#19
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Are you speaking to all bolt-on spacers? I have ran spacers for going on 10 years now without one issue. Auto-x, track, street, etc. I mean 930's had factory bolt-on 1" spacers didnt they?
I know its not "optimal", and I do plan on swapping at the very least my front axle to late offset this year. BMW guys use slip on spacers with longer studs or bolts until a certain limit, like 18-20mm, after that they go to bolt-on. Isnt there a limit to a slip on spacer with longer studs? (I run 25mm all the way around, hubcentric, T-7075 aluminum)
Just curious as my car has passed tech with both NASA and multiple PCA groups without anyone saying a word.
I know its not "optimal", and I do plan on swapping at the very least my front axle to late offset this year. BMW guys use slip on spacers with longer studs or bolts until a certain limit, like 18-20mm, after that they go to bolt-on. Isnt there a limit to a slip on spacer with longer studs? (I run 25mm all the way around, hubcentric, T-7075 aluminum)
Just curious as my car has passed tech with both NASA and multiple PCA groups without anyone saying a word.
#21
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FWIW, I would be far more concerned about spindles and hubs breaking than the spacers causing any issues. I have seen dozens of early spindles break, as well as hubs, both early, late, and M030.
#22
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Wheel spacers that slip over longer studs are fine. The key here is that they install over longer studs. Your wheel is still bolted directly to the car.
Wheel adapters (which is exactly what they are) bolt to the stock studs. These adapters have their own little studs which the wheel then bolts to. Your wheel is not directly bolted to the car.
TonyG
Wheel adapters (which is exactly what they are) bolt to the stock studs. These adapters have their own little studs which the wheel then bolts to. Your wheel is not directly bolted to the car.
TonyG
#23
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Wheel spacers that slip over longer studs are fine. The key here is that they install over longer studs. Your wheel is still bolted directly to the car.
Wheel adapters (which is exactly what they are) bolt to the stock studs. These adapters have their own little studs which the wheel then bolts to. Your wheel is not directly bolted to the car.
TonyG
Wheel adapters (which is exactly what they are) bolt to the stock studs. These adapters have their own little studs which the wheel then bolts to. Your wheel is not directly bolted to the car.
TonyG
#24
Rennlist Junkie Forever
The difference is with one type the wheel is bolted directly to the car. With the other the wheel is not.
Your argument assumes that the only thing that could fail is the stud itself.
The bottom line is that they are not legal for track use anywhere, are ridiculously heavy, and the inferior method of spacing out a wheel.
And I just don't understand why anybody would use wheel adapters when you can change out the wheel studs so quickly and easily and use the proper slip on wheel spacers. Longer studs cost about $75 per axle (two wheels).
Maybe you should start a thread on the pros/cons of wheel adapters?
TonyG
#25
Guys, I value all your opinions. They have merit.
Tony, I think you were a bit harsh on the adapter/spacers though. I do that sometimes about other topics too.
The problem with the Adapters/spacers is that there is no way to check the torque on the lug nuts that hold the spacer to the hub. They are covered by the wheel. If these come loose, there is no way to know unless you take the wheel off.
I do have this set up and am aware of it's shortcomings. So I triple check torque on those nuts before installing wheel. - actually a little difficult since there is no wheel with the weight of the car holding it in place while torquing. I lock mine in at 92ft lbs. I've only run 4 or five events like this. All held fine after being checked every time.
Just knowing and checking should prevent any future issues.
Spindles and hubs on the other hand...
Tony, I think you were a bit harsh on the adapter/spacers though. I do that sometimes about other topics too.
The problem with the Adapters/spacers is that there is no way to check the torque on the lug nuts that hold the spacer to the hub. They are covered by the wheel. If these come loose, there is no way to know unless you take the wheel off.
I do have this set up and am aware of it's shortcomings. So I triple check torque on those nuts before installing wheel. - actually a little difficult since there is no wheel with the weight of the car holding it in place while torquing. I lock mine in at 92ft lbs. I've only run 4 or five events like this. All held fine after being checked every time.
Just knowing and checking should prevent any future issues.
Spindles and hubs on the other hand...
#26
And I just don't understand why anybody would use wheel adapters when you can change out the wheel studs so quickly and easily and use the proper slip on wheel spacers. Longer studs cost about $75 per axle (two wheels).
Maybe you should start a thread on the pros/cons of wheel adapters?
TonyG
Maybe you should start a thread on the pros/cons of wheel adapters?
TonyG
It is also two fold as they push the wheels out to the edge of my widebody fenders.
That said. I will eventually purchase some crazy light magnesium centered jongbloed wheels Here
That will do without the spacers as they are just a pain to keep up with as far as torquing them down, and yes. they are extra weight I would rather not have. !!!
Not trying to be argumentative Tony in any way. I respect much that you have done and say. I'm just throwing out my very specific reason for these spacers that others may not have realized before.
#27
so vdubvortex I am curious how it is you keep buying wheels that are not even in the ballpark of the offsets you need. Seriously dude you are good entertainment. Good luck with the wheels
#28
Banned
Thread Starter
2 bridges thanks for the input but please know your facts before you try and make me look stupid. I currently have original Bbs rss and the only reason I'm buying these wheels is for carshows where some don't always appreciate origninality
#30
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Are you speaking to all bolt-on spacers? I have ran spacers for going on 10 years now without one issue. Auto-x, track, street, etc. I mean 930's had factory bolt-on 1" spacers didnt they?
I know its not "optimal", and I do plan on swapping at the very least my front axle to late offset this year. BMW guys use slip on spacers with longer studs or bolts until a certain limit, like 18-20mm, after that they go to bolt-on. Isnt there a limit to a slip on spacer with longer studs? (I run 25mm all the way around, hubcentric, T-7075 aluminum)
Just curious as my car has passed tech with both NASA and multiple PCA groups without anyone saying a word.
I know its not "optimal", and I do plan on swapping at the very least my front axle to late offset this year. BMW guys use slip on spacers with longer studs or bolts until a certain limit, like 18-20mm, after that they go to bolt-on. Isnt there a limit to a slip on spacer with longer studs? (I run 25mm all the way around, hubcentric, T-7075 aluminum)
Just curious as my car has passed tech with both NASA and multiple PCA groups without anyone saying a word.
Sam,
Yes, I'm referring to "bolt on spacers" (wheel adapters is really the correct term).
930's use a slip on spacer, which requires that you have studs that are longer-than-stock installed.
PCA/NASA tech: If the techs at PCA or NASA could see that they were bolt on wheel adapters, they would not have allowed it. Typically you cannot visually see the difference between slip on spacer and a wheel adapter with the wheel bolted to the car. They look the same looking through the spokes of the wheel.
Do you get your car tech inspected trackside?
TonyG