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Old 01-30-2009, 04:32 PM
  #16  
944obscene
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Alright. Thanks for the info. When I start using other oil, I will Be using Tom Charlesworth's stuff. BUT... I need a cheap alternative. Not cheap... But something that isn't tens of dollars a quart. I expect my consumption to go down since you insist it will, but I don't think it will aleviate the problem. So. What can I get until then?

Spoke to Tom and he said either the turbo, the turbo oil line, or the valve guides possibly. I mean, we both agreed there could be other areas, but I'm going to look around the turbo tonight and see what I can see over the top of that hill. I've run this car HARD lately. But the oil consumption was not effected. It simply stayed the same. Keep in mind, the car is not daily driven. It sees about 300 miles every couple weeks. That's a quart or so in that time. This can be very different from some of your "two weeks" driving. That seems excessive, at any rate, to me.

P.S. Mike, I will probably give you guys a call on your oil and lubricants. Wish you could PM...
Old 01-30-2009, 04:34 PM
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944obscene
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Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951
Check your turbo shaft play. If it's out of spec, let me know -- I've got a K26/6 in great shape. My last car sipped oil like an English Tea Party sips tea.
I'll let you know. Wish you had a #8 hotside... I'd like that.
Old 01-30-2009, 06:00 PM
  #18  
333pg333
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Originally Posted by ausgeflippt951
My last car sipped oil like an English Tea Party sips tea.
What, with their pinkys in the air??
Old 01-30-2009, 08:38 PM
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jlturpin
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
What, with their pinkys in the air??
I always thought it was for counter balance.
Old 01-31-2009, 09:57 PM
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944obscene
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CASTROL! I'm using Castrol to refill. I thought it was Mobile. I forgot... Meh... I won't be using it much longer anyway.
Old 01-31-2009, 10:50 PM
  #21  
sebastian944
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I use Castrol GTX 20w50
Old 02-01-2009, 02:13 AM
  #22  
INURGRL951
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I use castrol full syntec 5w-50 don't use a drop but I drive like grandma .

But i do agree on the M1 i got it out and gone in the 06 CTTS cayenne
Old 02-02-2009, 11:37 AM
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PennyWise
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Interesting about Mobil 1, for the past few years it's been the syth oil recommend by many on this forum. What changed? FWIW.. I don't use it. Just curious.
Old 02-02-2009, 01:11 PM
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F18Rep
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Oil brands? A pointless conversation.
cat is possibly blown out. Maybe from the oil leak burning the matrix away.
This is more interesting. I would not have thought this to be possble. Clogged, sure but burned away? Bruce
Old 02-02-2009, 01:49 PM
  #25  
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Get the Valvoline VR1 if you want a "cheap" alternative that works amazingly. On Saturday I easily saw 240 degree oil temps at the track and the whole time I was maintaining over 4 bar.

The stuff is like $3.50/quart.
Old 02-02-2009, 03:19 PM
  #26  
MAGK944
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Just my 2c worth FWIW-

Mobil 1 has reduced its levels of ZDP over the years. ZDP helps to reduce upper cylinder wear (valves, cam etc), especially in early porsches - pre 986. The reason they reduced the levels is that it was causing premature cat failures. There was an excellent article about this in Panorama, Jan 2008 I think, maybe some has it and could post.

I use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 for racing and Shell Rotella T 15W-40 for street cars. Both of these oils have the recommended levels of ZDP which should be over 0.12%. Once I started using the Shell Rotella my oil consumption went down to almost nil and no valve noise.
Old 02-02-2009, 04:45 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by PennyWise
Interesting about Mobil 1, for the past few years it's been the syth oil recommend by many on this forum. What changed? FWIW.. I don't use it. Just curious.
There's reams of information available on this using the search function. Essentially the key is higher viscosity and ZDDP. Our cars need both.
Old 02-02-2009, 06:48 PM
  #28  
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If you are interested in finding actual content of ZDDP in the oil, check out the forums on BobIsTheOilGuy.Com , There is a section for oil analysis where people post results of both brand new and used motor oil in a multitude of cars. The results are helpful in figuring out which oils work well still for our applications. This is one of the reasons i switched to Redline Synthetic. My car was getting Mobil1 for a long time and when i started researching this i had decided on either Redline, Amsoil or the Valvoline VR-1. I chose not to use the VR-1 because i want to stick with synthetic. Amsoil is a little more expensive locally..so i went with Redline. Its a shame because the Valvoline is a little cheaper. Its painful having to buy 8 quarts of Redline oil at $10 a quart... it easily turns into a $90 oil change, not including the filter. Buying online is marginally cheaper by the case, but most of what you save is canceled out by shipping cost and you end up saving about $5 per case.

One thing that actually surprised me, i was a long time Castrol GTX 15w50 high mileage user for my '87 n/a. I read that they have a very low ZDDP count!

Its tough to rate the Mobil 1 oils because there are a few different formulations. I think the good one was the red capped Mobil 1 which is not available anymore as far as i know, all i see is silver and gold caps which from reading the analysis results do not have sufficient ZDDP amounts for older cars like ours.

Check out this thread for some analysis of brand new oil samples. You have to search around a bit to find specific brands and weights. Its also interesting to see how the oil does in the used analysis over time.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...127#Post478127

BTW, another reason to get away from Mobil 1 is the film strength. Ive read a number of times of people complaining that Mobil 1 15w50 really thins out at high temperatures and have some experience with this first hand, i mentioned this before in some older posts. At Lime Rock after a 20 minute session i came into the pits after my cooldown lap and had around 2 bar oil pressure, if anything slightly less. I have no idea what the temperature of the oil was because i did not have my oil temp gauge hooked up at the time. I was only running 11psi this day. At Pocono about a month later, i was running Redline 10w40 and came back into the pits with 3 bar oil pressure after my cooldown lap. I was running 13psi that day. So in my opinion that shows that the Redline has a much better film strength even when comparing 10w40 to 15w50. That was enough to make me never look back at not using a high quality motor oil even if it costs me another $20-30 per oil change.

Last edited by Techno Duck; 02-02-2009 at 07:08 PM.
Old 02-02-2009, 08:10 PM
  #29  
hally
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
There's reams of information available on this using the search function. Essentially the key is higher viscosity and ZDDP. Our cars need both.
what oil are you using Patrick? I've put this in afterputting her all back together. http://www.penrite.com.au/files/33ORMII0RL/HPR%2015.pdf
So far so good.

Last edited by hally; 02-03-2009 at 12:25 AM.
Old 02-03-2009, 04:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
There's reams of information available on this using the search function. Essentially the key is higher viscosity and ZDDP. Our cars need both.
I'm familair with the ZDDP issue, I didn't realise Mobil 1 had dropped their values... I hate the way these things sneak up on us...



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