DrZ1

Getting set to get started. Thanks to all who had helped with me over the past couple weeks with advice on wiring, soldering, and over all electrical advice.

Since having my stereo ripped out by the friendly criminal element, I had a close look at the poor wiring in the car.

I am wiring the following,
New head unit, Sub amp, EBC, WBO2, Radar,Ill Boost Gauge, and XM tuner, So I am starting with a relay and aux box to wire in each unit w/ seperate fuse. The block will hold 6 fuses, 30 amps max each, with total of 80 amps.

Then
Piggy back for AFM

I hope to get supplies in tommarrow to get started.

Suggestions welcomed.
Steve

Lorax

Don't burn yourself.

DrZ1

Got a bit further today, although I need some better conections and a few other bits. I really dont like soldering, but I see where it is better.

It is a mess in the car but at least the wiring is getting better.

Can I use this bolt, holding I am not sure what, behind where the glove box would be to use as a ground?

Thanks
Steve

Bri Bro

Here are the major ground points in a 944.

DrZ1

Thanks, Brian

You have been a huge help with this project. Can't wait to get it completed, so I can put my car back together.

Steve

DrZ1

Now I know that this part is the radiator speed resistors, I learn something new every day under the dash. I learned how fun it is to change the wires againt the firewall. Two of the wires were in such bad condition, the insulation was gone and the wires were frayed and brittle. Waiting on high temp terminals, so I can put it back together. Curious would this have become a fire hazard or just stopped working??

Steve

VOoDOoGTX

i was doing some sodering. put the iron down on the ground out the passenger side door. left it there for a few minutes while i prepared everything and then leaned out the door and put my hand on the iron and full body wieght. burned a deep burn into my hand :/ SUCKED i have a huge scar from it.

95ONE

You might want to just pull em. Mine were crispy all the way back to the fuse box taking out some power leads with them. - Causing months of frustration for me. - and lots of money lost on hunting the wrong problem.

DrZ1

I removed probably about 8 inches. And there was some corrosion, but the wires seem pretty maliable. If this was my project car, with the dash gone. I sure would have. I remember you were chasing a wiring problem last year, was this part of it?

Steve

Keithr726

I had the same problem with the radiator fan resistor wires. I cut them back to where they were in decent shape and spliced on new wires. I'd like to completely replace the wires as it is clearly a fire hazard but that would be pretty hard. When installing mine I broke one of the small black thermo switches and couldn't find a replacement. Be careful with those things, they are plastic and obviously well heated. I decided to run the wires straight to the resistors like 87+ cars that had the resistors in the battery tray. I also extended and channeled the glove box air supply hose to cool the resistors. I measured the temperature on the resistors one day and it was 350 degrees!

95ONE

These wires were THE problem. As I dug deeper towards the fuse bocks, the wires looked fine and happy/healthy. Kept pulling them out and in 2 more spots further up, they were crispy and broken and melting into other wires right at the fuse box.

CurtP

Mine were the same way. I think I may still have the wires I pulled out of the harness - I'll take some pictures of them if I do.

Mine were a little crispy near the ballast resistors, then looked ok. Since the harness was out of a '86, I needed to extend the wires out through the firewall so I could use it on my '87. Since I was unwrapping the entire harness, I decided to replace the entire length of the wire and I'm glad I did - there was very little insulation still intact inside the loom. When I re-wrapped the harness, I left those wires completely out of the loom. I made a separate loom with 4 new 10ga wires, which are wrapped and ran parallel with the factory harness. That way I can get to them easily if there is ever another problem without having to deal with the main harness.

My only concern is if I got the correct wires paired up on the ballast resistors. I need to figure out how to test that before I start running the car again.

DrZ1

Since I have most put pack together, I am not going to pull the harness. But I might pull the wires at the fuse box and run a seperate harness. If there are not other branches tied into it. Are there??

I am starting to put stuff back. I have a few things I am waiting on, and need to order some more expandable wire sleeve and wire. It sucks that I live in the country, and there are no major sources for the quality material. Not to mention working out of the car under the carport.I seem to spend more time looking for something I laid down. I have a old cement dairy barn, that I need finish converting to a shop. After this I am motivated, big time.

Waiting on the EBC from Vitesse before finishing my piggy back install. I will try to post some tonight, after picking things up. I am supprised at the amount of wiring for different applications.

Bri Bro

You can measure it at the coolant fan relay. One resister goes to V1 and M1, that for fan 1. The other goes to V2 and M2 and that is for fan two. M1 and M2 also go directly to the fan motors.

I am betting the reason that the resistors were moved in 87 was to reduce the length of the wires going to the resistors. The wires from the resistors connect to the fan relay which is in the Central Electric box and the resistor were moved to under the plastic cover in the engine compartment.

CurtP

Thanks - I'll read them out before I put the car back on the road.

The wires on '87+ are actually longer. They go through the harness the same way, then are routed outside from behind the glovebox. They also don't have the thermal switches. I believe they moved them outside to reduce a fire/smoke hazard.

I do think they undersized the wires though.