Im starting slowly to remove the engine in my car,

i will have a lift in 1-2 weeks, but i want to start removing some parts in the engine,

i dont want to remove stuff under the car with jackstands, i will wait for the lift,

can you guys tell me what parts i will need to remove or disconnect from the engine to remove it

looks like that at the moment




ps: another question, about the intake man, the part at the bottom right, with the electical component, i remove the 4 allen bolt,
my question is : can i put the entire part with the electrical component in the water to wash it... my guess would be no

 

your well on the way I assume you will be dropping the engine out the bottom .
probably a good time to deal with the fluids rad hoses heater hoses up the back

 

your well on the way I assume you will be dropping the engine out the bottom .
probably a good time to deal with the fluids rad hoses heater hoses up the back

 

Go to www.clarks-garage.com
Click Garage Shop Manual
Click Engine - Removal

All you need to know, with step by step instructions, is right there. Its a vauable resource.

 

Sebastien,

Do you want to clean the intake manifold itself? Or just the throttle body?

The throttle body assembly can be taken off the intake manifold. The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) can be unscrewed from the throttle body and the seals can be removed. Then the throttle body can be cleaned seperately from the intake manifold.

Je vais essayer de te trouver des photos de tout cela.

André

 

Voici des photos:

Intake manifold with throttle body removed. Picture taken after it was cleaned and spray painted with heat-resistant paint.



Throttle body removed from the intake manifold with the TPS sensor in place. Arrow points to one of the two screws that need to be unscrewed to remove the TPS from the throttle body:

 

the real question is why would you start taking the engine apart before you have the lift. its gonna suck pushing that thing onto the lift.

 

Here's is the list I kept. Note plenty of opportunities for short cuts in this list.


1. Removed intake manifold
2. Removed MAF from turbo
3. Removed engine harness connectors:
a. 4 injector connectors
b. ISV connector (3 prong, black harness wire)
c. Knock sensor connector (white harness wire)
d. Single pin connector to aux turbo temp sensor
e. Brass colored temp sensor at front of motor (2 spade connectors)
f. Blue temp sensor near water neck (closer to front than above)
g. TPS connector
h. Oil pressure sender wires (note routing)
4. Cut zip ties/cable straps holding alternator cable and engine harness under intake
5. Drained radiator
6. Removed upper and lower radiator hoses
7. Removed small overflow hose from radiator just above upper hose
8. Removed electric connectors from fan (cut zip ties holding harness to fans)
9. Removed 6 10mm fender bolts (with fender washer) holding fans to radiator
10. Removed fans
11. Removed 4 hoses going to solid black coolant cross-over pipe
12. One coming off tiny turbo t-stat housing
13. One off the turbo coolant pipe (the one people bend to make fit)
14. Big Y pipe near reservoir
15. Passenger side elbow going to radiator
16. Removed tiny t-stat housing (10mm nut and allen bolt)
17. Drained oil
18. Removed 2 M6 nuts and bolts/fender washers holding bracket to oil cooler/frame
19. Removed 2 M6 bolts (+ bigger fender washers) holding oil cooler to frame
20. Loosened loop clamp mid-span oil cooler line to p/s bracket
21. Removed radiator
22. Removed both a/c and p/s turn-buckles entirely
23. Removed a/c and p/s belts
24. Removed alternator
a. --removed long M10 (17mm AFT) bolt
b. --removed shorter M10 (17mm AFT) bolt and mechanical lock nut
c. --removed M5 nuts and washers holding cooling shroud on alternator
d. --removed iceshark cable (13mm AFT nut) and blue trigger wire (8mm AFT)
e. --left shroud on cables
25. Removed hose to power steering pump (hose clamp)
26. Removed Banjo bolt to p/s pump
27. Drained p/s fluid
28. Removed front and rear M8 (13mm AFT) bolts and spacers for p/s punp
29. Removed p/s pump
30. Loosened 2 M12 (17mm ATF) bolts holding starter heat shield
31. Removed 2 M5 (8mm AFT) nuts holding starter heat shield
32. Removed starter motor heat shield
33. Removed small trigger wire M5 (8mm AFT) nut and wire
34. Removed battery and alternator wire at starter (on bigger post with 12mm AFT nut)
35. Removed 2 bolts holding starter to bell housing (19mm AFT)
36. Removed M8 bolt for knock sensor
37. Removed M8 (13mmAFT) bolts holding rear water neck to head
38. Removed thermo valve in water neck using 19mm wrench
a. Note that one rubber vacuum line about 2 inches long connects to a black plastic tube that runs along the firewall to the diaphragm cluster by the relay box, specifically to the larger black plastic diaphragm with the tan colored face.
39. Removed 3 ground wires from top of bell housing
a. --M8 bolt (13ATF) = big iceshark ground cable and larger brown harness grounds
b. --M6 bolt (10AFT) = smaller of 3 brown harness ground wire
40. Disconnected reference sensors at connector cluster with O2 sensor connector
a. (connectors marked to re-assemble without switching)
b. Left ref sensors installed in bell housing – sealed off connectors with baggie and tape
41. Left test port installed in Bell housing and port itself left on cam tower rear bracket
42. Tie-wrapped off all engine harness, battery cables, hoses, to firewall for clearance
43. Removed power steering reservoir with hose leading to pump still attached.
44. Removed coolant hose running from turbo Y pipe to reservoir
45. Removed aux turbo water pump
46. Removed fender bolt (M6, 10AFT) from inside brake booster shield
47. Loosened bracket nylock nut (M6, 10AFT) on top of fender
48. Disconnected turbo water pump connector
49. Removed heat shielded coolant hose from rear of turbo
50. Removed pump with bracket and shielded hose as unit
51. Removed 3” test pipe
52. 3 M8 allen bolts at downpipe, with flat-spot washers to fit
53. 4 bolts at muffler joint with flat-spot washers (14mm AFT copper nuts, 17mm AFT bolts)
54. Disconnected EGT sensor connector and secured harness to motor
55. Removed coolant hose at rear of pipe running over headers
56. Removed 2 M8x28 bolts holding clutch slave to bellhousing (kept slave hanging)
57. Removed Sway bar
58. Removed nylock nuts from sway bar mounting bushing bolts on top
59. Removed 4 (2 per side) M8 x20 bolts holding swaybar drop brackets to frame
a. Note: brake wear sensor harness bracket is mounted to frame sandwiched between frame and sway bar drop bracket on both sides
60. Removed big 24mm bolt from crank nose (after installing flywheel lock)
61. Removed p/s pulley
62. Removed 4 M6x16 bolts/washers holding alternator pulley to crank
63. Removed alternator pulley
64. Removed air duct for passenger side brake (under p/s cooler loop)
65. Remove Phillips head fender screw and washer
66. Remove M5 bolt going to side speed clip
67. Removed oil cooler lines from oil thermostat housing – 32mm wrench
68. Detached the p/s cooler line brackets: one from frame near top oil cooler port by removing 2 M6xshort bolts (with thick washers; also removed M6 nut on stud pointing down from frame, to which a mid-line p/s cooler line loop bracket is secured via a loop bracket. Over that nut goes a push-on clip for the brake wear sensor harness. With this done, I could:
69. Remove oil cooler with lines to oil thermostat still attached to cooler
70. Removed A/C compressor
a. Removed M10 x 50 mount bolt (front)
b. Removed M8 x 50 mount bolt (rear)
c. Removed M8 x 32 bolts (2) holding supply and return lines
71. Removed heat shield over steering U-joint
a. Remove M6 x 72 bolt with washer
b. Removed M6 x 40 bolt with washer
72. Removed 3 M6 bolts and locknuts holding waste-gate to Y on x-over
73. Removed two banjo fittings on Tial – marked hoses for reassembly
74. Removed steering rack
a. Removed cotter pin on both tie rod ends
b. loosened 19mm ATF castel nut
c. used puller to separate
d. Disconnected ground wire at the rack
e. Removed steering u-joint pinch bolt and crown-top lock nut M8 x 38 with copper M8 nut (13mmAFT lock nut)
f. Removed 4 M8x60 bolts (with washer) holding rack to x-member
g. Used big screwdriver to separate steering u-joint from splined gear drive
h. Once free, removed round allen head banjo holding fluid line (this line is strapped to the top of the x-member and feeds over to the power steering cooling loop behind the oil cooler
75. Removed louvered heat shield over passenger side motor mount
a. 2 M6 x 16 Bolts and fender washers screw in to cross member
76. Removed control arms on both sides (to replace)
77. Removed pinch bolt and nut (no washers) on ball joint
78. Removed two rear castor block to frame bolts
79. Hooked up cherry picker using factory lift tabs – pulled weight off mounts
80. Remove M10 x 35 bolts (4) holding torque tube to bell housing
81. Removed (2) M2 bolts holding caliper to spindle – hung caliper out of way (driver side)
82. Removed (4) M8 (13AFT) nuts and thin wavy washers from driver strut top
83. Removed strut (after disconnecting the wear sensor and pulling its grommet from strut)
84. Removed driver motor mount heat shield
a. Removed 2 M6x16 bolts with fender washer (louver/2 holes)
85. Removed 2 per side M8x50 motor mount bolts and nuts.
a. Bolt head with 3.6mm washer on top; nut with thin wavy washer on bottom
86. When pulling x-member, 2 more 3.6mm washers drop out, from between x-member and mount
87. Removed M12x75 Cross-member bolts – dropped cross member out bottom
88. Yanked motor off input shaft and slid out the bottom. Yipee.
__________________

 

do you mean the coolant hoses?

yes im changing them....

 

yes i will follow

thx

 

yes andré i remove the throttle body from the intake manifold
to wash it,

and yes i unscrewed the 2 bolts of the sensor but it doesnt want to get out, its stuck..

i ahev no idea why

 

no, what i want to do is remove the smaller parts that isnt a problem,

like intake manifold, ic pipe, rad, stock maf,

what i want to know is which other parts i can remove easily...

 

remove pin for clutch fork.
loosen bolts on bell housing
remove ground and starter cable etc. etc.
remove engine harness from ECM and KLR through fire wall.
drain fluids.
drop crossmember and a arm's as one unit.
simple green and a toothbrush

 

yeah but then the car wont run...... so you will have to push it onto the lift. that's gonna suck don't you think?

your taking the engine out. just remove every bolt you can get your hands on. remove the radiator aleternator turbo everything.

 

why would pushing a car onto a lift suck?