3" Cat-Back Rubbing on Torsion Bar & Sway Bar
12-30-2008, 01:20 PM
#16
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If you guys are having problems fitting the system,then you are not installing it correctly! It really is that simple. I will go through right now and give you guys some pointers.FYI,installing this system on jackstands and by yourself is typically why people run into issues and problems.It gets frustrating and sometime having a second hand helps rtremendously.So if you can get a buddy to help you,do it.If you can get onto a lift, even better.
A.If installing the downpipe,you might have to reindex the turbo slightly.It is best to put the downpipe on and only cinch down a couple bolts on the hotside,put the test pipe up and make sure there is clearance.At that point you can go and tighten all the bolts around the perimter of the turbo.Then you can proceed withthe install of the other componenets.Please read further for the best approach to installing the rest of the system.
B.The hangers on the car that attach to the mounting brackets on the exhaust system move along the length of the torque tube.If someone did a clutch job in the past or something like that,these could have moved slightly which will make lining up the tabs withthe hangers a pain in the ***.These hangers can be moved by loosening the two 13mm nuts that hold the hanges to the torque tube and sliding those hangers back or forth so you can align things.
C.The rear test pipe section has a flange thats angled.If it is not installed in the correct position(since it can rotate in four different directions,then you might have an issue lining up the cat-back.
D.On 87 and later cars, you typically have to relocate the factory hanger near the four bolt flange by sliding it forward on the torque tube which allows the hanger to dsrop slightly which then gives you clearance for the sway bar and torsion housing.
E.Always but on everything loosly.Do not put the testpipe on and then tighten it fully and then the cat back and tighten it fully. Instead put all of these things on without fully tightening so you give yourself some play.There are two slips and tweo flanges in these two pieces which allows for alot of adjustment and alot of play.
F.We have sold hundreds of these exhausts over the years and have had hundreds of people install these without issues.We have installed them here without issues.The jigs are the same so nothing has changed.
E.Do not hammer in your piping to make it clear.There really is no reason to do this.Call me instead and see if I can help!!!!!!!!
I hope this helps some of you.
A.If installing the downpipe,you might have to reindex the turbo slightly.It is best to put the downpipe on and only cinch down a couple bolts on the hotside,put the test pipe up and make sure there is clearance.At that point you can go and tighten all the bolts around the perimter of the turbo.Then you can proceed withthe install of the other componenets.Please read further for the best approach to installing the rest of the system.
B.The hangers on the car that attach to the mounting brackets on the exhaust system move along the length of the torque tube.If someone did a clutch job in the past or something like that,these could have moved slightly which will make lining up the tabs withthe hangers a pain in the ***.These hangers can be moved by loosening the two 13mm nuts that hold the hanges to the torque tube and sliding those hangers back or forth so you can align things.
C.The rear test pipe section has a flange thats angled.If it is not installed in the correct position(since it can rotate in four different directions,then you might have an issue lining up the cat-back.
D.On 87 and later cars, you typically have to relocate the factory hanger near the four bolt flange by sliding it forward on the torque tube which allows the hanger to dsrop slightly which then gives you clearance for the sway bar and torsion housing.
E.Always but on everything loosly.Do not put the testpipe on and then tighten it fully and then the cat back and tighten it fully. Instead put all of these things on without fully tightening so you give yourself some play.There are two slips and tweo flanges in these two pieces which allows for alot of adjustment and alot of play.
F.We have sold hundreds of these exhausts over the years and have had hundreds of people install these without issues.We have installed them here without issues.The jigs are the same so nothing has changed.
E.Do not hammer in your piping to make it clear.There really is no reason to do this.Call me instead and see if I can help!!!!!!!!
I hope this helps some of you.
12-30-2008, 01:29 PM
#17
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I just installed just the cat back, I think every car is a bit different and over the years, the factory exhaust can get beat and banged up and possible alter the alignment.
Mine just kissed the corner of the notched area in the torsion tube housing. I tried loosening everything, checking alignment, then retighten to no avail, Some times you just gotta do what you gotta do.
Not meant to be a slam to SFR, its a great system and would buy new if I had not gotten a good deal on the used system.
Mine just kissed the corner of the notched area in the torsion tube housing. I tried loosening everything, checking alignment, then retighten to no avail, Some times you just gotta do what you gotta do.
Not meant to be a slam to SFR, its a great system and would buy new if I had not gotten a good deal on the used system.
12-30-2008, 03:12 PM
#18
Drifting
I plan to buy a full motor back exhaust from Tim, and will because of the fit and finish on his products. My catback needed the hanger adjusted some, other then that, it went on fine and I did it on my back, by myself. I installed the catback in separate pieces. This probably helped.
It really isnt rocket science. I realize a full motor back exhaust runs about 3k plus dollars, but it really is worth it. What other company is so helpful and as big of a part as this community as Tim and SFR?
Just my few pennies.
It really isnt rocket science. I realize a full motor back exhaust runs about 3k plus dollars, but it really is worth it. What other company is so helpful and as big of a part as this community as Tim and SFR?
Just my few pennies.
12-31-2008, 02:04 PM
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I just installed just the cat back, I think every car is a bit different and over the years, the factory exhaust can get beat and banged up and possible alter the alignment.
Mine just kissed the corner of the notched area in the torsion tube housing. I tried loosening everything, checking alignment, then retighten to no avail, Some times you just gotta do what you gotta do.
Not meant to be a slam to SFR, its a great system and would buy new if I had not gotten a good deal on the used system.
Mine just kissed the corner of the notched area in the torsion tube housing. I tried loosening everything, checking alignment, then retighten to no avail, Some times you just gotta do what you gotta do.
Not meant to be a slam to SFR, its a great system and would buy new if I had not gotten a good deal on the used system.
I didnt think it was a slam.Just wanted to let others know that there are some other possibilities before hammering on the exhaust.
Tim
01-05-2009, 11:43 AM
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If you guys are having problems fitting the system,then you are not installing it correctly! It really is that simple. I will go through right now and give you guys some pointers.FYI,installing this system on jackstands and by yourself is typically why people run into issues and problems.It gets frustrating and sometime having a second hand helps rtremendously.So if you can get a buddy to help you,do it.If you can get onto a lift, even better.
A.If installing the downpipe,you might have to reindex the turbo slightly.It is best to put the downpipe on and only cinch down a couple bolts on the hotside,put the test pipe up and make sure there is clearance.At that point you can go and tighten all the bolts around the perimter of the turbo.Then you can proceed withthe install of the other componenets.Please read further for the best approach to installing the rest of the system.
B.The hangers on the car that attach to the mounting brackets on the exhaust system move along the length of the torque tube.If someone did a clutch job in the past or something like that,these could have moved slightly which will make lining up the tabs withthe hangers a pain in the ***.These hangers can be moved by loosening the two 13mm nuts that hold the hanges to the torque tube and sliding those hangers back or forth so you can align things.
C.The rear test pipe section has a flange thats angled.If it is not installed in the correct position(since it can rotate in four different directions,then you might have an issue lining up the cat-back.
D.On 87 and later cars, you typically have to relocate the factory hanger near the four bolt flange by sliding it forward on the torque tube which allows the hanger to dsrop slightly which then gives you clearance for the sway bar and torsion housing.
E.Always but on everything loosly.Do not put the testpipe on and then tighten it fully and then the cat back and tighten it fully. Instead put all of these things on without fully tightening so you give yourself some play.There are two slips and tweo flanges in these two pieces which allows for alot of adjustment and alot of play.
F.We have sold hundreds of these exhausts over the years and have had hundreds of people install these without issues.We have installed them here without issues.The jigs are the same so nothing has changed.
E.Do not hammer in your piping to make it clear.There really is no reason to do this.Call me instead and see if I can help!!!!!!!!
I hope this helps some of you.
A.If installing the downpipe,you might have to reindex the turbo slightly.It is best to put the downpipe on and only cinch down a couple bolts on the hotside,put the test pipe up and make sure there is clearance.At that point you can go and tighten all the bolts around the perimter of the turbo.Then you can proceed withthe install of the other componenets.Please read further for the best approach to installing the rest of the system.
B.The hangers on the car that attach to the mounting brackets on the exhaust system move along the length of the torque tube.If someone did a clutch job in the past or something like that,these could have moved slightly which will make lining up the tabs withthe hangers a pain in the ***.These hangers can be moved by loosening the two 13mm nuts that hold the hanges to the torque tube and sliding those hangers back or forth so you can align things.
C.The rear test pipe section has a flange thats angled.If it is not installed in the correct position(since it can rotate in four different directions,then you might have an issue lining up the cat-back.
D.On 87 and later cars, you typically have to relocate the factory hanger near the four bolt flange by sliding it forward on the torque tube which allows the hanger to dsrop slightly which then gives you clearance for the sway bar and torsion housing.
E.Always but on everything loosly.Do not put the testpipe on and then tighten it fully and then the cat back and tighten it fully. Instead put all of these things on without fully tightening so you give yourself some play.There are two slips and tweo flanges in these two pieces which allows for alot of adjustment and alot of play.
F.We have sold hundreds of these exhausts over the years and have had hundreds of people install these without issues.We have installed them here without issues.The jigs are the same so nothing has changed.
E.Do not hammer in your piping to make it clear.There really is no reason to do this.Call me instead and see if I can help!!!!!!!!
I hope this helps some of you.
Just sent you a PM.
I have tried all of the above, with the exception of being able to re-index the turbo (a second time). I have clearance between the down pipe and body, and the cat-back and the sway-bar - BUT both places are close enough to vibrate horribly still.
I tried everything in your list, but nothing will get my exhaust farther away from the body, and the sway-bar / torsion bar. Any additional suggestions would be much appreciated. If I truly need to re-index the turbo again, I'll just have to head back to my parents house as I don't have a garage at my apartment to do that kind of work.
Thanks!
-Matt
01-05-2009, 02:46 PM
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Check the mtor mounts and make sure oyu are not dealing with some mounts that are worn out.Having clearance when the car is sitting and then having it bang around when the car is running is telling me that it could be related tot he motor mounts to some extent.
tim
tim
01-06-2009, 10:34 AM
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I don't know what else could cause the exhaust to move so much though, that it rattles. It's extremely close to the body of the car in the front, and the sway bar in the back, so it won't take much movement for them to make contact.
-Matt
