FS 18" hollow spoke Twists for 996TT Fresh powdercoat
#16
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I tried the same as Ehall, wasn't going to happen on a late offset car..rolling fenders or not. I picked up a pair of the factory 10" (only avail in solid spoke) and they fit nicely.
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I'm good with the German cussing...Hell, I'm a Marine. They can't out cuss me. Where would the body filler come in? Someone will try this in the future and probably needs an idea of just how difficult the body work would be.
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E,
instead of rolling the fender edges, you can cut them off with a grinder disc, and it will save you just a slight bit more room. Believe me it sounds atrocious, but I did it on my 944 rear fenders and a bmw e36 m3's fenders and both have held out just fine for over a year. No ripples, rust, paint bubbles, sharp edges, or anything. I'll have to show you if you ever get to see my car. I can try to take pictures if you'd really like...!
instead of rolling the fender edges, you can cut them off with a grinder disc, and it will save you just a slight bit more room. Believe me it sounds atrocious, but I did it on my 944 rear fenders and a bmw e36 m3's fenders and both have held out just fine for over a year. No ripples, rust, paint bubbles, sharp edges, or anything. I'll have to show you if you ever get to see my car. I can try to take pictures if you'd really like...!
If you get a few minutes, take a few pics and email them to me. I'd like to see what you did.
#25
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Body filler would come in for finishing (skim coat) because major panel beating would be necessary. Not for the diy'er. As for trimming the lip, there isn't much there...it wouldn't be enough anyway. Of course you know this, as like me you've already tried fitting these wheels.
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I have one of those fender rollers and have used it extensively in the past (including my current LS1 951).
Before you go rolling anything, make sure you remove the factory clear stickers that are on the front and rear of the rear wheel opening. After you remove the stickers, you need to use a heat gun to heat the paint (which can't be done with the stickers on) and keep it hot while you roll the fenders out. As long as you keep the paint real hot (so hot that it hurts when you touch it, but no hotter!), the paint will stretch and you won't get any cracking. Too hot and the paint will bubble.
You can use the roller to get a 315 under the rear of the car without any problems. That's what I used to get my 11" x 315's under mine now. The problem is that the wheels you have have too much offset to get it properly under the rear of the car. This is due to the fact that you really can't pull out the inner fender.... well you can, but you have to take a plasma cutter and cut a line around the inside fender well so that you can pull the fender out, then weld in a plate over the cut and re-undercoat.
But it really makes no sense to do that when you can get a 11x315 under the rear with very minor pulling and no cutting. I had my Cup ll 9" wheels widened to 11" , then use a factory 930 rear spacer with longer studs. They fit with a minor amount of pulling. No paint damage or body filler needed.
TonyG
Before you go rolling anything, make sure you remove the factory clear stickers that are on the front and rear of the rear wheel opening. After you remove the stickers, you need to use a heat gun to heat the paint (which can't be done with the stickers on) and keep it hot while you roll the fenders out. As long as you keep the paint real hot (so hot that it hurts when you touch it, but no hotter!), the paint will stretch and you won't get any cracking. Too hot and the paint will bubble.
You can use the roller to get a 315 under the rear of the car without any problems. That's what I used to get my 11" x 315's under mine now. The problem is that the wheels you have have too much offset to get it properly under the rear of the car. This is due to the fact that you really can't pull out the inner fender.... well you can, but you have to take a plasma cutter and cut a line around the inside fender well so that you can pull the fender out, then weld in a plate over the cut and re-undercoat.
But it really makes no sense to do that when you can get a 11x315 under the rear with very minor pulling and no cutting. I had my Cup ll 9" wheels widened to 11" , then use a factory 930 rear spacer with longer studs. They fit with a minor amount of pulling. No paint damage or body filler needed.
TonyG