lee101315

Just make sure the last step is 65-70 ft lbs and call it a day.

jmj951

I just did my head gasket and torqued as stated in Clark's Garage. If you're never supposed to go over 70 ft-lbs, why wouldn't Clark's Garage specifically state that? I know the Porsche Shop Manual says to go 20Nm, 60Nm, then 90Nm, but I went with Clark's since it comes highly recommended and is based on a lot of practical experience. I'm sure that I'm over 70 ft-lbs on the final step. Probably about 90 ft-lbs (which I know is well above 90Nm). And yes, I cleaned the threads on the head studs and coated them with oil. Original studs/nuts/washers, stock head gasket, 86 951, 138k miles. Second head gasket job on this car (the first was under the previous owner, over 70k miles ago when the timing belt failed).

CarbonRevo

how do you like your Snap-On Tecangle torque wrench? Is it worth the $470 dollar price tag? I'm looking at getting one soon.

Kool

$470 for a torque wrench.

That is an insane amount of money. Does it come with a happy ending or something?

bigdeano

It comes with hours and hours of pain and headaches of working on your car and running into problems! The happy ending is when you get it back on the road!

Kool

I get the same satisfaction out of my $75 Craftsman torque wrench.

CarbonRevo

might I add that its electronic, goes to 250 ft/lbs, its 1/2" flex head, it does angles without having to use an adaptor and its Snap-On.

I looked up a craftmand 1/2" torque that goes to 250ft/lbs without a flex head and its $250. It also has to use an adaptor to do angles.

The Snap-On tecangle is really nice because it displays torque and angle at the same time.

Kool

Just seems steep. What do I know.

Vinster88

The techangle Is definitely bad ***. The handle vibrates when your desired setting is reached as well as a beep. It will measure in In.lbs , Ftlbs, Nm, and torque angle. However I didn't pay retail... i asked the snapon guy about them & he had just repoed one. so, I got it for 300.00.

gt37vgt

take all the washers of then screw the nuts done to the head with your fingers and make sure you can easily srew then all down to the head and they feel the same .
angle tightening is a good thing and more acurate then torquing

turbopower

In my Porsche Workshop manual it lists the torque specs on page 10-06 as :
1st step 14 ftlb
2nd step 36 ftlb
3rd step 65 ftlb

Bri Bro

Now look at page 10-010 for the modified tightening torques for engines.

turbopower

To me that says : use either or

Mike Lindsey

Angle torquing and foot pound torquing can both vary depending on the thread pitch, surface quality of the hardware, lubrication etc.

If you angled torqued a Raceware stud to Porsche specs, you just screwed up since the pitch is different. You would have less then desirable clamp.

The stock cylinder head stud has a 1.5 pitch on top or the nut end. The Raceware is a 1.25 pitch. Not sure what ARE is. You need to think of the torque as the resistance to turning. Since the 1.25 bolt has less angle of incidence, when you tighten it, it's easier to tighten then a coarser threaded bolt. In addition, the Raceware has a friction coating on the washers and nuts and the base or bottom of the nut has a smaller foot print. All of which allows it to tighten easier. If you tighten the Raceware stud to 65 foot pounds, it about the same as tightening the stock stud to about 80 or 90. You do not want to tighten Raceware bolts more then 65 pounds. When you do, you start to pull the front and rear of the cylinder head down which means your bending or curling the head, and everything above it. This bending depends on the gasket your using in between. The Cometic would resist this more then the stock style. According to Raceware, anything above 70 pounds starts to curl the head. So it would seem 65 pounds even on a Raceware may be to much as well as anything above 70 on a stock stud.

MAGK944

That is for (85.5-87) engines M44 05-08.

It also lists this for (85.5-88) M44 05-10 engines with 12mm high nuts:

1st step 14 ftlb
2nd step 90deg angle
3rd step 90 deg angle

This has always confused me, why would the same nut width and pitch but with a different nut height require a different method of torquing?