After 15 hrs labor - still have oil pressure issues
12-07-2008, 09:54 PM
#32
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Installed the mechanical oil pressure guage on Saturday with the exact parts list that Ben posted. I just zip tied the electrical sender's wires together so the ! light wasn't on. On startup in the cold I am seeing 80psi and then higher at first on the revs. Haven't driven the car far enough or hard enough to see if it is still showing the same issues the electrical guage was. Just down to the car wash and back though after warming up some I was at 40psi at idle and between 65 and 70 at 3k rpms. Here are some pics of the install.
12-07-2008, 11:59 PM
#34
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Nice work Josh, looks good and I really like the all VDO panel. FWIW, in the engine compartment I split some spare standard silicone vacuum tubing (LR kit) and completely covered the nylon line. Fit was perfect and should help protect the nylon line from the odd nick, chafe, etc. Will be interesting to hear what the results are. Do I spy a PS leak? 
12-08-2008, 10:08 AM
#35
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Good idea Ben on the silcone line sleeve.
Yup - PS leak there. I think i need to get some new lines and fittings - maybe a new tank while I am at it.
Drove the 15 miles into work this morning on the back roads. Oil warmed up to 190 to 200 F. Oil pressure at idle was between 30 and 35psi. At 2500 to 3500 rpms it was at 65 to 70psi when warm. I'll probably take the interestate home - will be able to do higher speeds/rpms which is when the problem seems to exhibit itself.
Someone on the Pelican board mentioned that maybe I should drain my oil cooler and check for trash. Didn't get to that this weekend but that is the next thing to try if I am still having issues. I guess there is no way that any large bits of broken baffle could have gotten in there as the oil first has to go through the pickup....
Yup - PS leak there. I think i need to get some new lines and fittings - maybe a new tank while I am at it.
Drove the 15 miles into work this morning on the back roads. Oil warmed up to 190 to 200 F. Oil pressure at idle was between 30 and 35psi. At 2500 to 3500 rpms it was at 65 to 70psi when warm. I'll probably take the interestate home - will be able to do higher speeds/rpms which is when the problem seems to exhibit itself.
Someone on the Pelican board mentioned that maybe I should drain my oil cooler and check for trash. Didn't get to that this weekend but that is the next thing to try if I am still having issues. I guess there is no way that any large bits of broken baffle could have gotten in there as the oil first has to go through the pickup....
12-08-2008, 10:34 AM
#36
Three Wheelin'
The original oil thermostat opens at around 105 C, IIRC. There is an updated thermostat that is rated to open below 100 C. That may be another option.
The pressures look normal so far.
The pressures look normal so far.
12-09-2008, 11:51 AM
#37
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Drove home yesterday from work and back this morning. On the last bit of road I revved up to 4k rpms and the mechanical guage was only up to 40psi. I looked down at the oil temp gauge and it was showing 220 degrees. I am wondering if I have some sort of a restriction that only comes into play when the oil cooler thermostat opens up? Is it possible to get to that thermostat without pulling the exhaust manifolds?
Still haven't drained out the RX7 oil cooler to check for trash or an obstruction....
Still haven't drained out the RX7 oil cooler to check for trash or an obstruction....
12-09-2008, 01:05 PM
#39
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12-09-2008, 02:17 PM
#42
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Here is the link to the installation of the oil cooler with pics....
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/429911-rx7-oil-cooler-installation-with-pics.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/429911-rx7-oil-cooler-installation-with-pics.html
12-10-2008, 12:49 AM
#43
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Well - removed the oil thermostat this evening. Quite the adventure - might have found something. Broke a 3/8 u joint and had to go buy a half inch one. Serious torque on the 17mm cap - probably 150lbs or more.
When I pulled out the thermostat the pin was stuck in the housing - sort of glued to the bottom. I think what was going on is that the thermostat was always diverting oil to the cooler. It is funny because Albert had mentioned that it seemed like my car took longer to warm up than his.
Not sure but maybe this was causing my issues - maybe at a certain temp the valve was moving up and restricting flow period.
I have a bunch of pics - tried to make a drawing showing how I think this thermostat works. Also show the tools needed for extraction. I pulled off the oil filter of course to get in there. I replaced my thermostat with the better looking one out of the two spare block off plate assemblies I had.
When I pulled out the thermostat the pin was stuck in the housing - sort of glued to the bottom. I think what was going on is that the thermostat was always diverting oil to the cooler. It is funny because Albert had mentioned that it seemed like my car took longer to warm up than his.
Not sure but maybe this was causing my issues - maybe at a certain temp the valve was moving up and restricting flow period.
I have a bunch of pics - tried to make a drawing showing how I think this thermostat works. Also show the tools needed for extraction. I pulled off the oil filter of course to get in there. I replaced my thermostat with the better looking one out of the two spare block off plate assemblies I had.