Jeff N.

Archives seach drew a blank.

Any standard way to pressure test the exhaust? I'd like to do this test over the winter just to confirm general health but haven't located a good description on how to perform? Is there one?

Short of there being one, I would think the process might look something like this:

- bolt a home made flange with air connection to end of cat converter/test pipe. Be sure to seal with gasket.
- pressurize exhaust with compressed air.
- listen for leaks; maybe use some soapy water to locate if needed.

Comments?

Some questions:

- Would you expect the exhaust to hold pressure similar to testing the intake track?
- What PSI would one apply to the exhaust?
- What would be the possible leak points? Wastegate area, dump return, hotside flanges, exhaust manifold - anything else?

Thanks!

Jeff

Van

I'd put my hand over the tail pipe while it's running and listen for leaks.

You can also start it up on a lift and carefully feel around all joints for puffs of air.

bigdeano

I heard you can put a leaf blower on the tailpipe and blow air in and feel for air coming out. Beats burning your hands if you have someone else who can hold the blower while you feel around.

MPD47

Jeff is there a reason you suspect it is leaking?

Jeff N.

Great question Mike. Not sure really - sorta think I can hear a slight wooshing sound under the hood. Car generally holds boost, spools well on a 26/6. I have other reasons to be in that area and wanted to rule out any problems. Never seen anyone outline the test but seen it discussed before.

hally

My lindsey exhaust leaks plenty at the slip joints which would make it hard to do a pressure test from the tail end.

Fluidplay

hally - My LR 3" leaks quite a bit on the slip fit from the wastegate. Would really like to find a way to seal it up. Any ideas. I like the leaf blower idea, I may give that one try.

hally

yeah thats where I notice mine leaking also

Vinster88

The stock exhaust on my Audi. Had a type of header wrap at each joint. I'm gonna try that at each slip joint of the Lindsey exhaust. that should give the slip joint clamp something to compress.

CurtP

Wurth exhaust paste. I used it on the slip joints on another vehicle and it sealed it up perfectly. The only thing I'm worried about is getting it apart later. Around $15/tube IIRC.

What clamps are they using? I've found many of the 3" wide clamps don't fit tight enough. I've had good luck with the ones from Napa though. Just remember that once you use the clamp, you can't reuse it again. They stretch to fit around and seal up the joint and once removed, won't seal tight again. So if you've reused the clamps, replace them.

If you want reusable band clamps, look at the 1" wide Torca AccuSeal clamps. They don't span over the slip fit connection, but provide a tighter clamping force. These are all I use now.

Fluidplay

Good info CurtP. Thanks

CurtP

To use the Wurth exhaust paste. you will have to take the slip joint apart, clean the parts that slide over each other, apply the paste, then reassemble. Kind of a PITA, but makes for a tight seal.

Another trick with the 3" wide band clamps is to take a 3" wide piece of aluminum foil, roll it up until it's about the diameter of a cigarette and slip it between the bolts on the clamp and the exhaust pipe. When you tighten the bolts, the foil will press against the pipe and create a tighter seal in that area. It works with limited success. Placement is key, and you want to roll it loosely so it will compress.

reno808

why would anyONE put a Leaf Blower at the end of a tail pipe????????????????

TRP951

to create positive pressure in the exhaust so leaks are easier to find, when the car is not running.

Auto_Werks 3.6

Are you guys being serious??? There is definitely some debris somewhere in the exhaust that you would not want to be blowing back into open exhaust valves. I would be much more tempted to put a leak down tester in one cylinder with an open exhaust valve. Then plug the tail pipe, and presto, pressurized exhaust.