968 turbo conversion: project in the works
11-01-2008, 07:20 PM
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968 turbo conversion: project in the works
Moved over here from first the 968forums where apparently I have been 'excluded.' and moved here from another 968 rennlist forum so that I can get some more input form you turbo guys.
Anyway, if you did not see it before, it's a 1992 968 3.0 16v vario engine. Will get bored 104.5, mahle pistons/rings/ carillo or similar rods, widefire headgasket, HMR studs and my own design Garrett turbo. turbo mounted via 951 left engine mount. 2.5 downpipe to 3 inch lindsey.
Front mount IC, etc....
figure at least 350-400 hp at crank without major strain on engine.
maybe I can find a home here......
more pics. you can see that I already have the turbo crank case (came on the engine)
and some wheel pics for another member
Anyway, if you did not see it before, it's a 1992 968 3.0 16v vario engine. Will get bored 104.5, mahle pistons/rings/ carillo or similar rods, widefire headgasket, HMR studs and my own design Garrett turbo. turbo mounted via 951 left engine mount. 2.5 downpipe to 3 inch lindsey.
Front mount IC, etc....
figure at least 350-400 hp at crank without major strain on engine.
maybe I can find a home here......
more pics. you can see that I already have the turbo crank case (came on the engine)
and some wheel pics for another member
11-01-2008, 07:56 PM
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more pics:
as you can see, many parts from 951 like heat shields, oil return, etc. fit right in. Height of Garrett compressor will be a little tall, but since I am making the intake, I can adjust for this.
Note: while rebuilding my 951 TB, i noticed that one spring counteracts the other (the axial coil spring was fighting the long spring. I reversed the axial spring and bent out the hooked end. It fit perfectly and can return the plate on it's own. The long spring is now a helper. I did not want the plate to NOT close in case of cable failure. Not sure if this is designed this way form the factory, but I like it much better now. And it is only slightly harder to open at near full throttle than stock 968 TB.
gathering parts has been pretty easy. As stated before, I decided to go with S2 flywheel for several reasons.
1) Centerforce makes a pressure plate and dual composition disc AND
2) it costs less than 600$
3) and , the S2 flywheel has a 60-2 tooth pattern so I can use crank timing with stock 968 sensors the Haltech
4) it weighs 16 lbs (without PP and disc) WOW, way less than stock 968 flywheel and more than all aluminum, with durable threads
Already have the S2 cover, flywheel, and driveshaft (allegedly form a 29,000 mile car) and I believe it beacuse this had almost 0 rust.
6 speed trans can easily handle the extra power, but I plan to upgrade my spare trans to LSD when it gets rebuilt.
As far as the bolt in my crank case, having one of the early (#77 or so) 968's , probably a money saving attempt by using old stock.
Block: I have spent many hours on the phone with many different 'experts.' After careful consideration, I have chosen to keep the bores alusil, but run a ferrocoated piston. Spoke with US chrome and other platers. Nikisil would be nice, and getting properly sized pistons not a problem. Problem is the ring lands and finding the right rings/ right tension/ coating/ AND if I stay with alusil, getting a piston coating PROVEN to last. example, no one could tell me that the swain or other coating would last on JE pistons.
Therefore, I really had only one choice, Mahle at 2200$ (ouch) BUT , that includes rings made for alusil, and pins. Also, from what I was told, Mahle makes the stock 968 pistons. so i think this is the right way to go.
Crank: I will not be doing any cutting or grinding on the crank. No knife edging. just a light counterclockwise polish after measuring(gets the micro-burs pointing opposite of rotation) Just one plug to clean and tap (maybe)
I want a durable strong engine. One that will last another 100,000.
major items left:
Haltech
block work
pistons
rods
finding a T3 .84 A/R 4 bolt stage 3 turbine housing
Like I said before, anyone with comments good or bad, let me know. I am trying to do this conversion for under 10g (not including the trans)and so far it is working out.
as you can see, many parts from 951 like heat shields, oil return, etc. fit right in. Height of Garrett compressor will be a little tall, but since I am making the intake, I can adjust for this.
Note: while rebuilding my 951 TB, i noticed that one spring counteracts the other (the axial coil spring was fighting the long spring. I reversed the axial spring and bent out the hooked end. It fit perfectly and can return the plate on it's own. The long spring is now a helper. I did not want the plate to NOT close in case of cable failure. Not sure if this is designed this way form the factory, but I like it much better now. And it is only slightly harder to open at near full throttle than stock 968 TB.
gathering parts has been pretty easy. As stated before, I decided to go with S2 flywheel for several reasons.
1) Centerforce makes a pressure plate and dual composition disc AND
2) it costs less than 600$
3) and , the S2 flywheel has a 60-2 tooth pattern so I can use crank timing with stock 968 sensors the Haltech
4) it weighs 16 lbs (without PP and disc) WOW, way less than stock 968 flywheel and more than all aluminum, with durable threads
Already have the S2 cover, flywheel, and driveshaft (allegedly form a 29,000 mile car) and I believe it beacuse this had almost 0 rust.
6 speed trans can easily handle the extra power, but I plan to upgrade my spare trans to LSD when it gets rebuilt.
As far as the bolt in my crank case, having one of the early (#77 or so) 968's , probably a money saving attempt by using old stock.
Block: I have spent many hours on the phone with many different 'experts.' After careful consideration, I have chosen to keep the bores alusil, but run a ferrocoated piston. Spoke with US chrome and other platers. Nikisil would be nice, and getting properly sized pistons not a problem. Problem is the ring lands and finding the right rings/ right tension/ coating/ AND if I stay with alusil, getting a piston coating PROVEN to last. example, no one could tell me that the swain or other coating would last on JE pistons.
Therefore, I really had only one choice, Mahle at 2200$ (ouch) BUT , that includes rings made for alusil, and pins. Also, from what I was told, Mahle makes the stock 968 pistons. so i think this is the right way to go.
Crank: I will not be doing any cutting or grinding on the crank. No knife edging. just a light counterclockwise polish after measuring(gets the micro-burs pointing opposite of rotation) Just one plug to clean and tap (maybe)
I want a durable strong engine. One that will last another 100,000.
major items left:
Haltech
block work
pistons
rods
finding a T3 .84 A/R 4 bolt stage 3 turbine housing
Like I said before, anyone with comments good or bad, let me know. I am trying to do this conversion for under 10g (not including the trans)and so far it is working out.
11-01-2008, 08:21 PM
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partz
THANKS! it's got a cartrige quill system, 'borrowed' it from my father.
yep, garrett of THEIR design, my specs: Stage 3 turbine ~60/55 A/R 84 T3 4bolt (if I can find it)and T04e compressor with wheel at ~84/57 60A/R
OK, here is a pic of most of the little stuff.
since I went with the S2 cover, I needed a new starter. You can see the newly coated heat shields and exhaust pipes. Most of the little stuff is here.
Wastegate (close up a few posts back)is a design by a friend at Turboconcepts. Very nice unit and very nice price (38mm).
I am running all 2.5 inch pipe before and after the IC and 3 inch into compressor.
I look to save cash without buying crap. For example, the intercooler was 110$ but made very well WITH rear facing pipes (for a mazda). Look closely at the BOV (thing with dog red tip) It came with a cast 2.5 inch pipe/mount (just to left) gasket, etc for 35$. Chinese or whatever, this is a nicely made unit with well machined bores and screww holes, adjustable spring, polished, and 30mm vavle. Now I have a 250$ older Blitz unit sitting right next to me, but it has funky mounting screws and can;t easily be used without me welding up some pipe.
Exhaust: the exhaust header flange will have to be cut and repositioned to fit the cross over pipes. Likel;y, i will have to cut and weld the T3 inletflange to the other end of the crossover pipe and maybe adjust for height....not known yet.
yep, garrett of THEIR design, my specs: Stage 3 turbine ~60/55 A/R 84 T3 4bolt (if I can find it)and T04e compressor with wheel at ~84/57 60A/R
OK, here is a pic of most of the little stuff.
since I went with the S2 cover, I needed a new starter. You can see the newly coated heat shields and exhaust pipes. Most of the little stuff is here.
Wastegate (close up a few posts back)is a design by a friend at Turboconcepts. Very nice unit and very nice price (38mm).
I am running all 2.5 inch pipe before and after the IC and 3 inch into compressor.
I look to save cash without buying crap. For example, the intercooler was 110$ but made very well WITH rear facing pipes (for a mazda). Look closely at the BOV (thing with dog red tip) It came with a cast 2.5 inch pipe/mount (just to left) gasket, etc for 35$. Chinese or whatever, this is a nicely made unit with well machined bores and screww holes, adjustable spring, polished, and 30mm vavle. Now I have a 250$ older Blitz unit sitting right next to me, but it has funky mounting screws and can;t easily be used without me welding up some pipe.
Exhaust: the exhaust header flange will have to be cut and repositioned to fit the cross over pipes. Likel;y, i will have to cut and weld the T3 inletflange to the other end of the crossover pipe and maybe adjust for height....not known yet.
Last edited by xrad; 11-01-2008 at 08:46 PM.
11-01-2008, 08:43 PM
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so looks like your planning on high compression low boost? I'm not sure about the cross compatibility of clutch parts I was told 968 is realy different to 951 clutch and can't mix bits it has different bell housing .
i don't know about S2 V 968 clutch parts But I'd like to i think I'll search. I think I will probably use my S2 flywheel to get my computer going sequential .
the fancy KEP clutches are less than 600 as well I will swap you a computer for an inlet manifold if you get busy and make 2 them sorry its not haltech its EMS but does have antilag and I could give you some coils aswell
i don't know about S2 V 968 clutch parts But I'd like to i think I'll search. I think I will probably use my S2 flywheel to get my computer going sequential .
the fancy KEP clutches are less than 600 as well I will swap you a computer for an inlet manifold if you get busy and make 2 them sorry its not haltech its EMS but does have antilag and I could give you some coils aswell
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11-01-2008, 08:59 PM
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yeh I think you a bit off there .
it's the same valve but one is plumbed back .
it gets plumbed back to 3 reasons but none of them will realy bother him that much
first is some things with AFM's stuble with a vented BOV but he will loose his AFM when he gets his new computer
it is often an emissions issue local cops will complain that you are venting crankcase hydrocarbons
and the third is noise it is a little loader .
But there no real problem it's just personal preference
it's the same valve but one is plumbed back .
it gets plumbed back to 3 reasons but none of them will realy bother him that much
first is some things with AFM's stuble with a vented BOV but he will loose his AFM when he gets his new computer
it is often an emissions issue local cops will complain that you are venting crankcase hydrocarbons
and the third is noise it is a little loader .
But there no real problem it's just personal preference
11-01-2008, 09:27 PM
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Your welcome: it has 5 shades of white right now, soon to get bodywork.
GT37 is right: Ran BOV's before with 350 hp 2.0 4g63 and grand national without recirc and Haltech control. No flapper or hot wire to worry about. No problems with Haltech sensing fast enough to recover from pressure change. engines never died once.
It's easier to vent to atm, and crankcase will be vented to catch can with one way fume recirculator (maybe)
S2 cover fits 3.0 block (same design) and since it is shorter, i have to use S2 driveshaft. Pain in the *** for clutch change, but I don;t plan on doing that every day. Had to use S2 flywheel because 944 turbo flywheel does not have teeth. Keeping costs down, i did not want to design a crank angle sensor or use the cam angle sensor. 944s2 clutch will fit the 3.0 crank and of course the S2 housing. Smaller housing allows me more room for cooling and plumbing the exhaust.
we do not have emissions/inspections checks in Michigan(and no plans to do them anytime soon). just title and registration fees. maybe cat bypass tube?? nah, i'm for some green
GT37 is right: Ran BOV's before with 350 hp 2.0 4g63 and grand national without recirc and Haltech control. No flapper or hot wire to worry about. No problems with Haltech sensing fast enough to recover from pressure change. engines never died once.
It's easier to vent to atm, and crankcase will be vented to catch can with one way fume recirculator (maybe)
S2 cover fits 3.0 block (same design) and since it is shorter, i have to use S2 driveshaft. Pain in the *** for clutch change, but I don;t plan on doing that every day. Had to use S2 flywheel because 944 turbo flywheel does not have teeth. Keeping costs down, i did not want to design a crank angle sensor or use the cam angle sensor. 944s2 clutch will fit the 3.0 crank and of course the S2 housing. Smaller housing allows me more room for cooling and plumbing the exhaust.
we do not have emissions/inspections checks in Michigan(and no plans to do them anytime soon). just title and registration fees. maybe cat bypass tube?? nah, i'm for some green
