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Speed Force Racing Coolant Tank Group Buy

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Old 04-29-2009, 02:10 AM
  #121  
Techno Duck
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Brian, its the green type. I dont bother with the phosphate free stuff because i change the antifreeze yearly and heavy mineral deposits in tap water are not really a problem state side. I should also mention that the coolant in the car is not brown or red... it is still fresh antifreeze with probably around 2000 miles on it since i replaced the turbo.

I am also doing some more research on better suited push-to-connect type fittings. MSC Direct has Parker Presto-Lok nickle plated brass fittings which would probably be somewhat better suited as they are not fragile (no fear of overtightening) like the PVDF fittings i am using now. The only thing is they are only rated to 200*F. Specifically i am looking at part # W169PLPNS-4-2 on MSC Direct which is a 90 degree elbow that can be used with 1/4'' tubing and has 1/8NPT threads. For tubing, i think PTFE tubing might be a better choice as its rated to 500*F.

I think tomorrow i am going to try and take a closer look at the fittings supplied with the LR steam vent fit to see if i can find the manufacturer.

In the research i have done so far on these types of fittings, i dont think any instant type fittings are rated at higher than 248*F...and those were the $25 a piece stainless fittings from MSC Direct. These are very high quality fittings from Legris (a brand of Parker) and are 316 stainless steel. My guess is the o-rings are the weak point.
Old 04-29-2009, 02:20 AM
  #122  
ehall
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Heavy mineral deposits are most certainly a problem, here in the states. NY MAY be better than most, but it's a serious problem in many states. I never ever use tap water.
Old 04-29-2009, 01:27 PM
  #123  
Bri Bro
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
For tubing, i think PTFE tubing might be a better choice as its rated to 500*F.
PTFE and FEP does look like a good fit.
http://www.newageindustries.com/tefchemf.asp

There are right angle connectors with NPT fittings, page 9
http://www.newageindustries.com/down...mr_Catalog.pdf

For a straight replacement hose, the BING Alcohol Resistant Fuel Line looks like it might work (bottom left of page).
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/20...l/Cat09118.pdf
http://www.rotaxparts.net/Scripts/pr...?idproduct=561

What do you think?

Last edited by Bri Bro; 04-29-2009 at 11:24 PM.
Old 04-29-2009, 01:42 PM
  #124  
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We are more then willing to help find a better solution so lets see what you guys come up with and we can buy the parts or whatever and supply them to all those that are having an issue.



Tim
Old 04-29-2009, 02:46 PM
  #125  
Techno Duck
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I just bought a foot of PTFE tubing from McMaster and a few more fittings to try. I decided to give the push to connect nickle plated brass fittings on McMaster a shot, part # 51495K214. I think these are the same Parker Presto-Lok fittings listed on MSC Direct.

The fitting is rated to 175*F. Strange thing is, i looked up other brass fittings that people typically use on water lines for our cars (for example people who used brass spacers on the turbo cooling jacket to space the water pipe out) and none of these are rated very high, most between 200-250*F. I have a feeling the nickle plated brass fittings are going to be the best bet and not look as out of place as the Kynar fittings i originally used. I should have them tomorrow.

The biggest problem with the Kynar fittings is they are fragile and you need to be careful not to over tighten in the expansion tank. Also, i am pretty sure you must use a swivel type fitting (hose connection spins independent of threaded portion). If you use a regular right angle fitting, i dont think you will be able to get the tube in once the fittings are tightened down. You might be able to slip it in one section at a time.. but the 3.5'' section of tube is not very flexible to allow this, so im not sure if it can be done. The Kynar swivel fittings i am using now are a little wet (just barely..but still leaking) at the 'swivel' portion and i think this is because they are slightly angled as you can see in my picture. The 'swivel' portion is actually just another push-to-connect fitting (with another o-ring) hence the weakpoint. The swivel nickle plated push-to-connects dont have this and i think they should be the ticket. Its hard to explain..so just take my word for it .

The compression fittings from NewAge dont look bad and should hold up great. I was hoping to use the push-lok fittings however. If i still have problems after all this i will probably end up using these. These types of fittings are available on McMaster also.. part # 52195K47. They are PFA, and rated to 400*F. Only problem is they are $20 each...doh!

Seems like a dumb thing to have so much fuss over but it basically comes down to there are no fittings on paper that really look suitable unless you are willing to shell out around $45 total. Now what it says on paper and what actually works is what were left with. If any of you guys find a better suited tube that can be used with the original supplied brass fittings or other more elegant solutions please do tell. I will report back tomorrow to let you guys know how these nickle plated brass fittings work out.

Last edited by Techno Duck; 04-29-2009 at 03:13 PM.
Old 04-29-2009, 05:27 PM
  #126  
Bri Bro
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Looks like you have the PTFE stacked out so I ordered some of the Bing fuel tube.
Old 04-30-2009, 08:24 PM
  #127  
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Nickle plated brass fittings and PTFE tubing put on today. While i dont have too many miles on this yet, i think this will be the final solution. The PTFE hose is the best choice as its clarity is better than the Kynar stuff and is also more flexible and easy to cut. The fittings look strikingly similar to those used with the steam vent kit and i have a feeling will hold up fine (conjecture on my part).







Here are the part #'s from McMaster-Carr.

51495K214
5239K232

Total cost was $12 including shipping.
Old 04-30-2009, 10:54 PM
  #128  
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That looks good, that this is the best solution. I will be ordering a set and I doubt I ever have problems with this setup.

The clear Urethane tubes are not designed to constantly run much over 180F and the material absorbs water so they will get soft over time at these temps.

Links to the P/N Jon gave above:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#51495k214/=1odu8e
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5239k232/=1oduxp



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