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BEST 20W50 Dino Oil?

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Old 09-15-2008, 11:22 AM
  #61  
CurtP
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Originally Posted by LFA951
I don't think it's that old, and even if it is, it would still be the same since virtually nothing has changed in the oils themselves...
The results may not be that old, but the test itself is. The reason for the shift from four-ball to Pin & Vee is that four-ball is an easier test. Many oils would cause the Pin in the new test to shear, which is a fail. In addition, Amsoil likes to play little tricks in their testing - one has already been pointed out.


Originally Posted by KuHL 951
Nothing like another good oil thread. I gave up and just use VR-1 20W-50 that I've used for years since Mobil1 went Exxon and lowered the ZDDP. Oil is like a new religion on many forums.
I pretty much gave up too. I just did an oil change this weekend to VR-1 even though I'm reading that it too has significantly reduced ZDDP. I almost picked up the Valvoline 20w-50 motorcycle oil instead, but I don't know how the detergent package in it compares. I also noticed that there's a Mobil 1 motorcycle oil that states it is a detergent oil, but I don't know how much ZDDP is in it, or if it has enough swellants in it to keep my car from leaking as badly as it did with regular M1.


Originally Posted by pk951
That screams boron based anti-wear additive with lowered ZDDP levels IMHO. I guess it's VR1 not-street-legal from now on :-) Granted, the non-street legal has about half the detergency, so you can't go very long without an oil change, say no more than 3000 mi with it!
Any experience with the Valvoline or M1 motorcycle oils?
Old 09-15-2008, 11:34 AM
  #62  
pk951
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My last oil change i used Esso diesel 15w40 CI rated not the CJ. I would not have any qualms about using M-1 v twin 20w50 if I could get it for less than 14$ a quart.
Old 09-15-2008, 12:42 PM
  #63  
KuHL 951
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Originally Posted by CurtP
...I pretty much gave up too. I just did an oil change this weekend to VR-1 even though I'm reading that it too has significantly reduced ZDDP. I almost picked up the Valvoline 20w-50 motorcycle oil instead, but I don't know how the detergent package in it compares. I also noticed that there's a Mobil 1 motorcycle oil that states it is a detergent oil, but I don't know how much ZDDP is in it, or if it has enough swellants in it to keep my car from leaking as badly as it did with regular M1.



Any experience with the Valvoline or M1 motorcycle oils?
Actually the zinc/phosphorus content is slightly higher on the VR-1 than the Valvoline version of 4-stroke cycle oil. Not sure about the M1 but they seem to keep ZDDP lower in all their product lines and use a substitute additive. Would friction modifiers for a wet clutch system have any drawbacks in automotive service? I'm no expert but from all I've read up it appears a ZDDP content of 0.12-0.14 % is ideal for cam-on-lifter motors like ours. The VR-1 is 0.12-.0.13% and has a good detergent package to make more than suitable for street use. The VR-1 Racing synthetic

I've always used synthetics in my newer cars but am reluctant to go back to using them for the 951.
Old 09-15-2008, 03:30 PM
  #64  
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Valvoline lists Zinc/Phosphorus in their 20w-50 as 0.130/0.120 here: http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR...otor%20Oil.pdf

However, that document is dated from 5/23/06 and I don't know when they supposedly changed formulation.

I'm running this for now until I get oil analysis performed to see how well it works for me.
Old 09-15-2008, 04:50 PM
  #65  
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I use the VR1 for my street car, but was thinking of going to the regular Valvoline 20W50 which has slightly less 0.087 of ZDDP in it and it's cheaper, $28.99 at Sonny's Quick Lube...I just bring the filter.
Old 09-15-2008, 07:19 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Got Me a Porsha
What about this:

"Shell Rotella T which is a conventional (mineral-based) oil that was originally formulated for diesel engines. Rotella T still contains 1,200 parts per million ZDDP, according to Shell - which is as much as five times the amount found in other oils. Don’t sweat it that Rotella was/is "for diesels." It’s also an excellent choice for older, non-emissions controlled engines with flat tappet cams that need their ZDDP. Rotella’s also modestly priced and readily available at most any auto parts store. Shell also markets a synthetic version of Rotella that offers even more protection - as well as longevity and a 5W-40 viscosity for those who operate their vehicles in colder climates. Standard Rotella comes in a heavier 15W-40 blend. "
Any thoughts?
Old 09-15-2008, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Got Me a Porsha
Any thoughts?
I think...that your avatar is funny...but disturbing- in a Wierd Al sort of way.
Old 09-15-2008, 07:50 PM
  #68  
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Was at walmart this past weekend saw some Shell Rotella T it was CJ not CI so it has changed to.
Old 09-15-2008, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Got Me a Porsha
What about this:

"Shell Rotella T which is a conventional (mineral-based) oil that was originally formulated for diesel engines. Rotella T still contains 1,200 parts per million ZDDP, according to Shell - which is as much as five times the amount found in other oils. Don’t sweat it that Rotella was/is "for diesels." It’s also an excellent choice for older, non-emissions controlled engines with flat tappet cams that need their ZDDP. Rotella’s also modestly priced and readily available at most any auto parts store. Shell also markets a synthetic version of Rotella that offers even more protection - as well as longevity and a 5W-40 viscosity for those who operate their vehicles in colder climates. Standard Rotella comes in a heavier 15W-40 blend. "Any thoughts?
It's good to know that Rotella has 1200 ppm ZDDP but that is the same as saying Valvoline VR-1 Racing and Synthetic Racing has 0.12% - 0.13% but VR-1 is designed for gasoline engines. I'm not bagging on the Rotella but diesel oils have a very high detergent package not really beneficial for a lower mileage gasoline vehicle.
Old 09-15-2008, 08:04 PM
  #70  
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About Valvoline VR1.. take this for what its worth. Mind you this test is over a year old and who knows what has changed formulation wise since then.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...819165&fpart=1

I think your best bet is to have a sample of oil tested by a independent lab and see what the #'s come out to be.
Old 09-15-2008, 08:22 PM
  #71  
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One more note on Shell Rotella T15w40 diesel oil Low flash Point only 413.
Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendancy for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F.
Old 09-16-2008, 11:23 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by 333pg333
Well maybe not blow up, but perhaps a rod punching it's way out of it's little house due to the too thin oil getting too hot and not providing the necessary suspension between all the nasty bits of moving metal after spinning another bearing...
Well, the title said 20w50, and on a street driven 951 IMHO any brand would propably work just fine. Racing, different story, and as usual, you get what you pay for.
And how is someone going determine what the "best" oil is?
Just saying, don't mean to offend anybody.
Old 09-17-2008, 05:18 AM
  #73  
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^^ Yeah for sure it's going to be much more crucial the harder you run your car and the conditions which it's in. I would agree that if you used any 20w/50 on a road car within reason, you should be fine but that would still need monitoring. Absolutely no offence taken either
Old 09-17-2008, 09:11 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
About Valvoline VR1.. take this for what its worth. Mind you this test is over a year old and who knows what has changed formulation wise since then.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...819165&fpart=1

I think your best bet is to have a sample of oil tested by a independent lab and see what the #'s come out to be.
On page 2 there's several people saying the test is inaccurate. One guy says the sample wasn't adequately agitated prior to sampling, another guy said that Blackstone just goofed up and a third guy said that his sample tested correctly.

I typically have my samples done by Blackstone. If my next sample looks off, I'll have it tested by a different company. I won't have an analysis performed by a company who wants to sell me oil though.
Old 09-17-2008, 02:18 PM
  #75  
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I guess I'm just going to get the regular Valvoline 20W50 oil change for $28.99 at Sonny's Quick Lube in Aventura for my street car...



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