This car is too fast
#31
Thread Starter
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one cocktail and the ruts do not feel as bad. Seriously though, I live in an area with severely rutted roads from large Dump trucks. I too at first thought something was wrong. But take my advice...get over it. You'll wind up putting alot of money into fixing a problem that does not exist. If, and I stress IF, you can adjust you car to the point of being tolerable on the rutted roads it WILL affect your handling on nice even winding roads. Maybe you should buy a mini-van.
#33
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I've already said it's the roads and not the car. My only concern was part of the problem was tire difference. Point is that you me anyone should be careful on roads that just plain suck when driving cars that are designed to be fast or modified for a track. I do need more time on the car without a doubt. I only driven 1000 miles on it and i had it for only two months. I wasn't born yesterday either, i'm in my 30's and i've had a few cars in my time. To be honest, a bad driver is someone who can't handle a car though windy roads at less than 60 miles on flat roads and crashes. Driving through ruts at crazy speeds is just plain dumb but it happens when you least expect it.
You took a high performance car, with which you say you are largely unfamiliar, on a road that was twisty and rutted, and proceeded to drive in a manner in excess of your own limits; a fact you admitted in the very title of your post.
99.9% of bad driving occurs before you ever leave the garage. Your decision making sucked.
Further, a number of people have stepped up to give you solid technical reasoning why your car may be reacting the way it is, but all you want to think of is tire tread pattern. Frankly, it sounds like you just over control your car. BUT, it's worth considering what has been presented.
Keep in mind, many of us, in this thread, run very stiff, race suspensions, on the street. All it does is make one of the best handling cars of all time a good deal better.
#34
I didn't read the whole thread s maybe I missed something or I am restatating something.
But, there is no such thing as to fast, at least foe me.
It will grow on you, and you will learn when you can use the power.
To me the definition of to much HP is when you can't put it to the ground under 150mph. other than that learn to modulate the throttle and in what situations you need and or could use all of it.
I learned last year that 400+whp was not nearly enough for me. At some point what you have will not be ebough for you, then you will need more.
But, there is no such thing as to fast, at least foe me.
It will grow on you, and you will learn when you can use the power.
To me the definition of to much HP is when you can't put it to the ground under 150mph. other than that learn to modulate the throttle and in what situations you need and or could use all of it.
I learned last year that 400+whp was not nearly enough for me. At some point what you have will not be ebough for you, then you will need more.
#35
Rennlist Member
That avatar looks like someone putting rutts in the road. You should know better.
Also if you're running more negative camber on the fronts your car will 'tramline' all over the place. Get used to it. We all have. It keeps you awake...
Also if you're running more negative camber on the fronts your car will 'tramline' all over the place. Get used to it. We all have. It keeps you awake...
#36
Okay sebastian, you have, almost by definition said that you are a bad driver.
You took a high performance car, with which you say you are largely unfamiliar, on a road that was twisty and rutted, and proceeded to drive in a manner in excess of your own limits; a fact you admitted in the very title of your post.
99.9% of bad driving occurs before you ever leave the garage. Your decision making sucked.
Further, a number of people have stepped up to give you solid technical reasoning why your car may be reacting the way it is, but all you want to think of is tire tread pattern. Frankly, it sounds like you just over control your car. BUT, it's worth considering what has been presented.
Keep in mind, many of us, in this thread, run very stiff, race suspensions, on the street. All it does is make one of the best handling cars of all time a good deal better.
You took a high performance car, with which you say you are largely unfamiliar, on a road that was twisty and rutted, and proceeded to drive in a manner in excess of your own limits; a fact you admitted in the very title of your post.
99.9% of bad driving occurs before you ever leave the garage. Your decision making sucked.
Further, a number of people have stepped up to give you solid technical reasoning why your car may be reacting the way it is, but all you want to think of is tire tread pattern. Frankly, it sounds like you just over control your car. BUT, it's worth considering what has been presented.
Keep in mind, many of us, in this thread, run very stiff, race suspensions, on the street. All it does is make one of the best handling cars of all time a good deal better.
#37
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Okay sebastian, you have, almost by definition said that you are a bad driver.
You took a high performance car, with which you say you are largely unfamiliar, on a road that was twisty and rutted, and proceeded to drive in a manner in excess of your own limits; a fact you admitted in the very title of your post.
99.9% of bad driving occurs before you ever leave the garage. Your decision making sucked.
Further, a number of people have stepped up to give you solid technical reasoning why your car may be reacting the way it is, but all you want to think of is tire tread pattern. Frankly, it sounds like you just over control your car. BUT, it's worth considering what has been presented.
Keep in mind, many of us, in this thread, run very stiff, race suspensions, on the street. All it does is make one of the best handling cars of all time a good deal better.
You took a high performance car, with which you say you are largely unfamiliar, on a road that was twisty and rutted, and proceeded to drive in a manner in excess of your own limits; a fact you admitted in the very title of your post.
99.9% of bad driving occurs before you ever leave the garage. Your decision making sucked.
Further, a number of people have stepped up to give you solid technical reasoning why your car may be reacting the way it is, but all you want to think of is tire tread pattern. Frankly, it sounds like you just over control your car. BUT, it's worth considering what has been presented.
Keep in mind, many of us, in this thread, run very stiff, race suspensions, on the street. All it does is make one of the best handling cars of all time a good deal better.
Without a doubt it's sticker in the back then in the front. Just like any other driver would say that the front is driving loose when compared to the back. It's easy to assume that the tires up front need change because of the uneven treadwear. Because you folks may be more familiar with my setup than me, i thought i would ask anyway. All of your replies are appreciated.
The rear doesn't move anywhere. It's pretty damn solid even in those ruts. In the front it could be the geometry, road induced camber thrust, tires, or my skill. Just as previous posts had said, i could change the suspension until i'm out of money and find myself with a crappy setup on flat roads. The most simplest thing to do is change the front tires to the same type and treadwear as the rear (which is what i should have done in the first place) but given the bridgestone potenza tires are nice tires i thought i would keep them on for a bit[
#38
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
I didn't read the whole thread s maybe I missed something or I am restatating something.
But, there is no such thing as to fast, at least foe me.
It will grow on you, and you will learn when you can use the power.
To me the definition of to much HP is when you can't put it to the ground under 150mph. other than that learn to modulate the throttle and in what situations you need and or could use all of it.
I learned last year that 400+whp was not nearly enough for me. At some point what you have will not be ebough for you, then you will need more.
But, there is no such thing as to fast, at least foe me.
It will grow on you, and you will learn when you can use the power.
To me the definition of to much HP is when you can't put it to the ground under 150mph. other than that learn to modulate the throttle and in what situations you need and or could use all of it.
I learned last year that 400+whp was not nearly enough for me. At some point what you have will not be ebough for you, then you will need more.
More horses for acceleration is always nice, but does it matter for 100 mph plus on city roads?
#40
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
The reason why i went with a car like this is because i knew at some point i would upgrade as i did with my other cars. I love the stiff lowered suspension in the windy roads, it's absolutely perfect!!! the car is beautiful! it's just some of these hwys are terrible with that setup.
You take the good with the bad.
#42
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All i'm doing is what you were doing when you first got your first high-performance car (probably). I realize it could many things including my suspension. I am testing my limits, do you take any a car you've had for the first few months up to any speed? or do you assume not to try because your not sure if you capable? I'm learning more about the car mechanically and slowly improving my driving skill without compromising other drivers or killing myself .
Without a doubt it's sticker in the back then in the front. Just like any other driver would say that the front is driving loose when compared to the back. It's easy to assume that the tires up front need change because of the uneven treadwear. Because you folks may be more familiar with my setup than me, i thought i would ask anyway. All of your replies are appreciated.
The rear doesn't move anywhere. It's pretty damn solid even in those ruts. In the front it could be the geometry, road induced camber thrust, tires, or my skill. Just as previous posts had said, i could change the suspension until i'm out of money and find myself with a crappy setup on flat roads. The most simplest thing to do is change the front tires to the same type and treadwear as the rear (which is what i should have done in the first place) but given the bridgestone potenza tires are nice tires i thought i would keep them on for a bit[
Without a doubt it's sticker in the back then in the front. Just like any other driver would say that the front is driving loose when compared to the back. It's easy to assume that the tires up front need change because of the uneven treadwear. Because you folks may be more familiar with my setup than me, i thought i would ask anyway. All of your replies are appreciated.
The rear doesn't move anywhere. It's pretty damn solid even in those ruts. In the front it could be the geometry, road induced camber thrust, tires, or my skill. Just as previous posts had said, i could change the suspension until i'm out of money and find myself with a crappy setup on flat roads. The most simplest thing to do is change the front tires to the same type and treadwear as the rear (which is what i should have done in the first place) but given the bridgestone potenza tires are nice tires i thought i would keep them on for a bit[
#43
how new?
When you say the rear tires are new, how new are you talking about? If the fronts are older and the rears are newer, the rears will need several heat cycles to feel normal. I experienced horrible handling for about the first 300 miles each time I replaced the rear tires on my 996 (and didn't replace the fronts, because on these cars they don't wear out even half as fast). The rear end wanted to dance all over the place any time I moved the front end around. I even had the exact same tire compound and tread on the front and back. After several heat cycles/miles the car settled down and was solid. Absolutely no doubt that it was soft new tires that caused it.
#44
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
When you say the rear tires are new, how new are you talking about? If the fronts are older and the rears are newer, the rears will need several heat cycles to feel normal. I experienced horrible handling for about the first 300 miles each time I replaced the rear tires on my 996 (and didn't replace the fronts, because on these cars they don't wear out even half as fast). The rear end wanted to dance all over the place any time I moved the front end around. I even had the exact same tire compound and tread on the front and back. After several heat cycles/miles the car settled down and was solid. Absolutely no doubt that it was soft new tires that caused it.
#45
Hm. Interesting. Well these tires have about a 1000 miles on them now. The new rubber tire spikes are still there Yes, when they heat up it's better. I went for a 2hr drive once and that was a good drive. It handled well. That could be it, just need to heat them up! Problem is most of the time i only drive for 30 minutes at a time in the city. I live deep into the city and it takes about 20 to 30 minutes just to get out into the back roads. It's been raining constantly here for the past two months, i havn't had much time to really take it out and enjoy it. I don't drive in the rain.