Matt Sheppard

I'm installing a TEC 2 engine management system and I have some questions for those who have been down this road before . . . well, before I start drilling things:

I need to tap the water temp sensor and air temperature sensor (3/8" NPT) _ and also the knock sensor (1/2" NPT?).

For the water I would like to go into the coolant neck pre-radiator <green oval>

For the air temp I'd like to go into the back of the intake manifold under runner #4 <no pic, you get the idea>

For the knock sensor, I'd like to tap it into a 2"x4" section of 1/4" aluminum and drill 2 holes to mount to the M10 holes on the block <blue oval> which is reversible, but more time/work.

what about taping strait into the block in either of these spots<red circles>?





Any one have suggestions for better placement?

I'm trying to keep it looking so when someone pops the hood, there isn't any dead giveaways to say the car isn't stock but that is a secondary concern to functionality. Therefore, I plan to mount the direct fire unit inside the stock airbox and run the wiring through the bottom. I'm going to a 3" inlet turbo so I'm going to bend up some 3" aluminum tube and route to a cone filter behind the driver's headlight and then somehow cover it, perhaps like Andrew from Australia did.

I have the trigger wheel figured out. It will be concealed from view by the belt covers though some modification will be necessary.





Anyone who has done this I invite to post.

95ONE

Air temp needs to be right in FRONT of the throttle body. MOTECs words. (And many others) not mine. eliminates most of the heat soak.

I have drilled and tapped the area you circled in red on the left just for the GM knock sensor you have there. It worked great. Did not break into another hole or area. I didn't use it much though and eventually sold the knock setup before I even got much use out of it.

eniac

The red circled areas on my '88 are tapped from the factory so you should have no issues tapping them yourselves.

anders44

dont really need the knock

Rogue_Ant

Because the Tec-II doesn't have good knock routines, or?


-Rogue

evil 944t

Why not use the water temp sensor already there? Its to the left of your red circle.

Motec likes the air temp before the TB, Link likes it after the TB.

I like it after the TB, it gives the exact temp of the air in the motor regardless of the TB position.

Mine is in a good spot regarding airflow but you need to unplug it to add oil. Its no big deal.. There is a lot of metal to tap into.

Rob

I mounted mine right behind the throttle body and used the factory water temp for my Wolf standalone installation.

Matt Sheppard

Thank you all for the posts.

Ok, I will leave the knock sensor out for now. That input helps. If nec, I'll tap the front-most red circle.

My thinking on the air temp runs along the lines of Evil's post - that's the air temp just prior to the valve at a place that doesn't skew flow to any one runner - if anything obstructs #4 somewhat at high flow which is always the leanest cyl. anyway. Plus, one needs a good bit of material to support a 3/8" threaded hole and tapping the intercooler pipe would require welding in a bung.

Rob: I thought of your placement as well as the IM has a boss right there already but want a less obvious install point.

Any input on the water temp sensor position? I like the idea of drilling as little as possible. Will the stock sensor work - i.e. software scale the output to read correctly? Any method to test both sensors in a pot of water on the stove to see if the output matches at diff. temps? I guess I'd be looking for ohms of resistance across the poles, correct?

For those w/ TEC 3 , does it have resource to wire in a wideband O2? I see having to buy an innovative kit in tandem with my TEC 2 since it only has the option of using a narrow band O2. I will someday up for a newer TEC unit, but not this year. That switch seems easy once I have all the sensors plumbed and functional.

Matt Sheppard

The GM water temp sensor reads 3.37 k-ohms at ambient and resistance drops as it heats. The stock Porsche sensor reads 2.40 k-ohms at ambient (72deg. F).

I am also planning to let the DME run as if is still controlling the car. That way I get gauges and get fans to run when temps get to high, ect. Is there any damage to a DME - say firing injector pulses with no injector to fire through?

TurboTim

We use the factory coolant temp sender with the TEC.It reads the same as using the GM sender and you can leave the car looking more factoryish.

evil 944t

Do you have a full Tec wire harness, one that connects to the 14 pin connector, on the driverside?

Why would you want to run 2 harnesses?

The fans will run off the thermostat and the guage connector is right by the DME. Its either a flat 8 pin or I think a 4 pin, anyways, it has all the pins needed for the tach, etc..

Skip Wolfe

Air temp - I have a bung welded into the IC hardpipe about 3" before the TB. Here is what the manual says about it:
Water temp - I used an inline coolant temp gauge adapter just after the coolant neck you have circled to tap. I had to cut the collnat hardpipe that goes to the rad a bit, but no big deal. Chris White includes one in his kit.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...COOLGAUGEADAPT

TEC3 does have provisions for a wideband O2 - it uses GPI4.

Chris White

Tec2....hmmm....good luck with that.

theedge

Fans are controlled by a relay in the fusebox. If the TEC2 has a tach output, then you just connect that to a pin in that 2x2 pin red block connector thats on the DME/KLR harness.

dand86951

I use the stock water temp sensor and welded a bung in the intercooler to hard pipe about 3 inches from the throttle body for the IAT.

As said above the Tec 3 does input a wideband.

For the GM knock sensor I drilled and tapped the front boss you have circled for it. Using it has been interesting as the GM sensor is much more sensitive than the Bosch sensor and it it puts out a higher voltage signal for a given noise than does the Bosch factory sensor. The end result I have found is that above about 4300 rpm the mechanical noises in the engine are sufficient to raise the output signal well above the knock threshold you may have set.
It does work at lower rpm and in the TEC3 you can turn it off above a set rpm. Since you have it uncovered drill and tap it and I would use several layers of teflon tape and not tighten it too much to minimize the sensitivity. Then drive it and datalog it under no load and see what your mechanical noise is at various RPM and then turn it on after you see what the knock rates are.