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KLR bypass

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Old 07-07-2008, 09:43 PM
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Bryans951
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Default KLR bypass

I'm trying to bypass the KLR to narrow down my no spark issue. I read that I need to run a jumper wire from pin # 9 to pin # 16. Is that correct? Also, I don't see any numbers on the connector. How do I find out which ones are # 9 and 16?

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Old 07-07-2008, 10:13 PM
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Bri Bro
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Here you go.
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Old 07-07-2008, 10:56 PM
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:52 AM
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F18Rep
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OK, so there's part of this that I don't understand. I see that this jumper would eliminate any kind of KLR knock retarding but are we saying that the KLR plug is disconnected for the jumper ... and then I'm supposed to take a test drive to see if it fixed the stumbling that would happen when (false) knock occurs?

I ask because the TPS will also be disconnected when the KLR is disconnected, is the car really drivable with out throttle position info?...Bruce
Old 08-08-2017, 11:32 AM
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divil
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Originally Posted by F18Rep
OK, so there's part of this that I don't understand. I see that this jumper would eliminate any kind of KLR knock retarding but are we saying that the KLR plug is disconnected for the jumper ... and then I'm supposed to take a test drive to see if it fixed the stumbling that would happen when (false) knock occurs?

I ask because the TPS will also be disconnected when the KLR is disconnected, is the car really drivable with out throttle position info?...Bruce
The car will definitely be drivable, but I don't know if you can use this technique to diagnose a false knock issue. It's good enough to figure out if the KLR is the cause of a no spark issue, but iirc the car will be in wide-open throttle mode all the time with the KLR out of the picture, so you'll be running rich with retarded ignition timing. It's a while since I looked at the wiring diagrams but I think that's how it works.
Old 08-10-2017, 12:48 PM
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Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by divil
The car will definitely be drivable, but I don't know if you can use this technique to diagnose a false knock issue. It's good enough to figure out if the KLR is the cause of a no spark issue, but iirc the car will be in wide-open throttle mode all the time with the KLR out of the picture, so you'll be running rich with retarded ignition timing. It's a while since I looked at the wiring diagrams but I think that's how it works.
Agree it's not a good idea to drive hard with the KLR bypassed, for lots of reasons. For what it's worth, the WOT signal goes to ground to indicate WOT state, courtesy of the KLR, and the DME appears to have an internal pull-up resistor on the WOT pin based on the FRWilk schematic. In other words, while I've never tested to confirm, it appears the DME will never get to the WOT maps if the KLR is unplugged.
Old 08-10-2017, 10:40 PM
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Thanks for responses.

For what it's worth, the WOT signal goes to ground to indicate WOT state...
I'm thinking that what you referred as WOT signal is aka the Load Pulse that is mentioned in Test Point 9 (DME/KLR Test Plan). I ran that test the other night btw and passed it. Its strange revving the engine on two injectors.

Another thing I stumbled onto was that the KLR bypass was at one time mentioned in test point 15 in the WSM but is missing from my copy of the DME/KLR test plan. Perhaps it was pulled for some reason; I'm not sure how those two documents tie-together. In the WSM, concerning the bypass it says, "The engine can be operated...in an emergency or for troubleshooting."

I thought this klr bypass was an interesting test ... Bruce



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