2bridges

die grind the stud face only. Place a steel nut of proper size so you can see the shiny ground stud face. Lay a couple nice heavy beads of weld in the nut, to the stud. Let stand for 30 seconds (no longer glowing red) and remove by turning the nut. Works like a champ..... just need a welder, or a buddy with a welder

Matthew951

Can anyone confirm that these are the only parts that I'll need to order to finish up my exhaust fiasco? I haven't been back to my parents to finish removing the down pipe, but I decided now is the time to go ahead and do a 2-piece cross-over as well. That's on order right now, but want to place an order with Paragon or somewhere, and get all the little seals and gaskets, etc that I will need to remove the turbo, and put it all back together.

This is the list from Clark's Garage:

944 111 205 03 - Turbocharger Outlet Flange Seal Ring
944 111 205 04 - Turbocharger Inlet Flange Seal Ring
944 111 205 03 - Turbocharger Outlet Pipe to Cat Pipe Flange Seal Ring
999 707 043 00 - Turbocharger Supply Line O-Ring (top of turbocharger)
900 174 058 40 - Turbocharger Oil Discharge O-Ring (between bottom of turbo and motor mount bracket)
999 707 043 00 - Turbocharger Oil Inlet Flange O-Ring (top of turbocharger bearing housing)
N 013 814 8 - Turbocharger Oil Supply Line Banjo Bolt Seal Rings (2 Needed)

I know I can re-use some of the crush rings and such, but I want to go ahead and order everything, because when I go to put it back together, I don't want to be missing a part, as I can't get to my parents house very often, so the next time I'm, there I want to be able to finish up this project. Should I order new intake runner gaskets? They looked good to me, but wasn't sure if those are something I should plan to replace now too?

Thanks!
-Matt

Techno Duck

I would definetley replace the intake manifold gaskets. They are cheap(less than $4 each) and will save you the headache of having boost / vacuum leaks later on down the line.

2bridges

May also want/need following

Oil dipstick tube O-ring
AOS O-ring seals
exhaust gaskets - header to crossover (2qty)

Matthew951

I'll make sure to order those also. Makes sense to replace them. That's why I wanted to ask!

I forgot about the dipstick O-ring. I haven't taken the dipstick out, I just taped it to the firewall, but I'll go ahead and replace it while I'm there. Same with the AOS, and the exhaust gaskets for the cross-over I think will be coming with my 2-piece cross-over.

Thanks guys!!

-Matt

Tom M'Guinn

Might want to order those allen bolts holding the turbo in place -- if you strip one, you'll never find the long one locally. You might also have some injector o-rings on hand if you separated the rail from the intake. 7 quarts of oil and some 944 frienly coolant too...

Matthew951

Do you know what size those bolts are for the turbo? I will order those, as I want all new hardware, to *maybe* ease removal if I need to pull this stuff out again. I hate re-using bolts and such.

I left the injectors on the intake, so I am all set on that.

Do I have to drain the entire coolant system as it says on Clark's Garage? I'd rather not drain the whole system, but not a problem if I have to. Oil change will be done too while it's on blocks. Does the oil have to be drained too, prior to removal of the turbo? (Forgive me if it says to in the Clarks Garage directions, as I haven't looked at those lately).

Thanks!!
-Matt

Tom M'Guinn

m8x35 and m8x125 -- both allen head.

Matthew951

Hey everyone...

Just a quick update, and another question:

Finally, over the Thanksgiving holiday, I was able to finish removing the 1-piece cross-over, and pulled the turbo from the car. It took all day Friday, but I got it done eventually.

Now, on to my question... I am trying to find somewhere to remove the broken stud, and I am getting (what I think) crazy quotes on removing that stud. Most places are quoting me $100-$200+ just to remove the broken one, not including installed 4 new ones (Removing the 3 good studs, and put in 4 new ones).

Does this seem out of line, or is this what I should expect to be paying? It seems to me, that I can just buy a new turbo, for not a whole lot more than that...

I am located in Orlando, and have already called Zotz, they have been the most reasonable so far, but still pretty pricey.

Thanks!
-Matt

Tom M'Guinn

Did it break off flush at the turbo, or is there any chance you can get a pair of vice grips on the remaining portion?

Matthew951

Unfortunately it broke flush at the turbo, so no way to get vice grips on it.

Zero10

Typically you will pay around $100/hour + and parts required. Sounds like they are estimating a little bit high though, as I wouldn't expect over 1 hour to replace all 4, and about $5 in studs. I think they are estimating high due to the risk of damaging the turbo.

Matthew951

Thanks for the info.

I already have the studs, so no parts should be needed. I wouldn't expect more than an hour of labor either. I guess I under estimated the cost on getting the studs removed / replaced.

Thanks again,
-Matt

F18Rep

o2 sensor. B

Matthew951

I have not bought a new O2 sensor. Does anyone have the number for the one I need? The old one should be fine, I even wrapped it in a zip-lock, and zip-tied it closed so it wouldn't get dirty throughout the rest of the work.

Thanks,
-Matt