bluto951

and since tomorrow's july4th I wont be able to get my hands on the tool to pressurize the system...

What's the best way to vent it w/out the tool?..and I am not a fan of that mouth on coolant overflow solution.

SHould I just jack it up...open the heating vent and remove the bleeding screw? Do you have to run the car for this to work?

Any ideas would be great..thanks!

ehall

as long as air can get IN, you won't get it OUT. You need a pressure tester, which you could perhaps get from an Autozone tonight. Then you need to fix the leak. THEN you can effectively bleed the system.

bluto951

so what you are saying is that effectively just topping off the coolant cant add air to the system? Because prior to this the car was running well...to hot with the ac on otherwise pretty cool...max 9:30
ish...

Maybe I just didn't get a good seal with the cap..

thx

wolfenstein

easiest method is fill tank to cold line start car raise idle to a bout 1200 turn heat on, watch the tank, coolant will rise and then drop as t-stat opens add coolant to tank as nec. got a big air pocket that overheats the car-turn the car off and watch the tank trick is to not let the tank go dry. a few times i've driven cars a short distance with cap only half on(won't build pressure this way) if coolant circulates you'll push the air out-trick is to get it to circulate

Darwantae951

No, it cannot unless you have the car running and the level in the tank is low enough to allow air into the system. You have a leak somewhere. Do you leave spots on the ground? Do you see any areas that get messy? I'd jack the car up, pull the trays, and begin hunting.

EDIT: I see that you stated the radiator is the problem, I'd start there.

Air will travel to the highest point in the system (the coolant neck on the head in front of the first intake runner, where Porsche conveniently placed the coolant system bleed screw). I don't see how your way solves any kind of bleeding issue. Circulating coolant won't always push air out as seen with the annoying air pockets at the rear of 944 heads.

bluto951

but here's what I dont get...why the sudden problem? It was running at max 9:30 maybe a little higher after running it hard up until today...could it just be chance that the 90+ degree weather finally got to her today..

ehall

it isn't sudden. It's just finally bad enough to be a problem.

bluto951

actually I bled the system properly this am...last night I tried bleeding it while warm and barely got any coolant to come out of the bleed screw but this am it was was coming out as described in all the related threads....after some hard run this am I could not duplicate the problem...it's still going into the shop to get some other stuff checked out so this will be on the list as well...thanks for the help..

Jeremy Himsel

Here's how I've bled the system over the last ten years without an issue. Place the car on stands or boards juse enough to raise the car a few inches. I have some 2x8's nailed together to give me 3" of lift. Fill the system and start the car. With the heater running, run the car for a few minutes until the thermostat opens. Once that happens fast idle the car a bit and open bleeder screw until a steady stream of coolant comes out and close bleed screw (you don't push enough coolant at idle). Let the car run until it comes up to temp enough so the fans turn on. Shut the car down and let it sit for five minutes. As the heat rises in the motor it will push the air to the highest point. Open the bleed valve again and the pressure will push out any remaining air in the system. Refill as necessary.

wolfenstein

the rear of the head always has a pocket there, once the t-stat opens and coolant circulates most air will be pushed out-water pump always helps here hence why i said raise the idle. jeremy's method will work as well as it raises front of the car

Techno Duck

Jeremey's method is what i always did for both my 951 and 944 when i had to dump the coolant to do work (Which seams far to often).

A shameless plug for Lindsey Racing's steam vent modification, i dont even really need to start the car up to get the air out of the cylinder head now. Just leave the vent open and fill...you can see the coolant rising up the clear tubing in the back so you know the void is full of coolant instead of air.

bluto951

grr...took the car out yesterday for a drive...about 85 degrees out and she topped out at 3/4 way between the 1st and second hash mark...running too hot again..this after running it hard for 2+hours in 75 degree weather last weekend. Obviously I have a problem, wish the gargae was set up so I could properly work on the car myself.

Question my coolant cap's rubber seal has all sorts of cracks..that can be the culprit of a bad seal and lack of pressure thus causing the problem right?

Darwantae951

Possibly, yes. Have you replaced any of the hoses or anything? Maybe pull your radiator and have it cleaned?

bluto951

Pretty sure most the hoses had a recent refresh (need to double check records when I get home)

But I am pretty sure the radiator needs replacing...I know it does have a small leak, but it's been running well since I got it...problems do get worse though...

ehall

Well do change the cap and bleed the system again...a couple of times. Go drive it for 30 minutes or so, with the a/c on full heat, then bring it home and CAREFULLY re-bleed it. BTW was your a/c running on the last drive? If so, it will get qhite a bit warmer.
Let us know how it goes.